Kenmore dryer won't heat, giving me grief

[potatochips]

One of my friends dryers won't heat anymore. I replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat using the kit that they both come in. When I tested the dryer the first time, nothing obvious was wrong. The dryer, being fifteen or so years old was vacuumed out, and the exhaust checked for good communication.

The thermal fuse I replaced blew a month later. What gives? The timer checks out fine on the black and red terminals (I even checked continuity throughout the whole timer and it cuts off heat at the right spots in the cycle). The thermostat has the proper resistance for each of the four settings (7000, 3500, 800, and 0). The element itself has continuity, and hasn't grounded out on the frame anywheres. The exhaust outside has a clear and unobstructed path, and where it vents is also is clear.

So, aside from a broken wire somewhere, what could cause the element to overheat and blow the thermal fuse? Have I missed anything?

Model 110.C60922990, four wire, Canadian dryer.

 

[henene4]

Loading or wonky switches

Pretty hard to tell I think.

One thing could be some weired load condition reducing airflow.

The thermostat could be getting old and sometimes just not switch.

A relay could stick.

Honestly, its trial and error. These can be had cheap basicly unchanged as new appliamces, and before throwing money at it, replacing might be an option.

 

[yogitunes]

yeah, I would check the relays....

I just had this issue on a Kenmore.....there should be two relays in the control panel, exactly alike, depends on the model....sometimes you can flip the wires to the other, if it now heats, but no motor, that one is faulty...

 

[potatochips]

Thanks Martin, Ill give that a shot and get back to you.

 

[repair-man]

I don't believe you will find any relays. The relays are used in the dryers with the "Evenheat" electronic control. The controls on this dryer appear to be a standard timer type. Plus you mentioned that you checked the red and black wires at the timer. What you are calling the thermal fuse is I believe actually the thermal cutoff. It comes as a set with a heater box high limit stat. You stated that you changed both parts. That is usually critical. Make certain that the parts (kit) that you put in was the correct part number. There are more than one available. Also the electric connections on the heater circuit must be very strong. High heat can make the push on connectors weak causing high resistance that in turn causes high heat at the connections and can itself "blow" the fuse.

 

[DADoES]

 
Parts diagram shows it has a small board P/N WPW10476828.

 

[combo52]

Have you taken off the black lint filter box and cleaned it and the blower wheel carefully?

Also observe the heating element when it is heating is it getting real bright red? This would indicate airflow problems.

There are no heat and motor relays on this model the small circuit board is the dryness sensor board has nothing to do with whether the dryer heat’s or not.