Kenmore Single Cycle Dryer

[qsd-dan]

Speed Queen handles overloads better than a Maytag. I

Why are we overloading washers? That's no way to get clean laundry.

I have overloaded my old A490 Maytag many times as a youngnin with a fluffy comforter, the agitation never slowed down and the belt never squealed. The motor overload protector never kicked in either (NEVER had the happen once except for an aftermarket 50hz transmission belt that didn't play nice in the spin cycle). But I have loaded items where they never rolled over once and the machine didn't care. I'm sure this was SOP in most laundromats back in the day. I find it hilarious that some think these just slip away on every load. If that was the case, transmissions belts would be replaced constantly.

 

[Chetlaham]

Sean, I do agree. Excluding Kenmore and some Whirlpool machines, Fast/Slow was available more often that Slow/Fast. I wish my Speed Queen had Slow/Fast. I was originally going to buy an AWN542, however after hearing about timers failing to start the motor I changed to the BOL model AWN412. The delicate/handwash cycle is hand-wash by default (intermittent slow agitation), so delicate items like a comforter require a time reset. Normal and PP are fast/fast which is great except for bulky, knit, and light weight items where I want slow/fast.

 

Dan: Good question. Its a bit of a habit. I like to sort loads by type and some loads like bath towels mixed with white cottons always end up being a really full wash just because those items get used the most and in large quantities. In such a case I like to run one full load instead of two smaller loads. I find Speed Queen washes just as well even when slightly overloaded and my dryer can handle the extra load no problem as long as extra time is factored in. In fact the dryer drum can be near filled to the top at the end of the cycle and everything comes out dry, untangled, fluffy and lint free. Whirlpool knew what they were doing.

 

In terms of why so many towels per day we have a tiled floor in the bathroom. I like to place towels on the floor since tiles are cold, two sets of towels parallel to the ledge of the tub or shower stall so drips don't get in between the grout and ultimately rot the sub-floor. Two more towels to dry off. Towels are typically washed after a day of use because I like them clean and fresh. It is also things like that which make me hate soft heat and long cool downs because I like towels to come out of the dryer very warm. It so luxurious to use warm towels especially during the winter.   

 

[maytag85]

I usually separate things and wash items with like items. A good indicator when I “overload” my Maytag A806 is when I put them into the DE806, if I hear the high limit thermostat open up which is audible, I take that as a sign I put a few too many items in. When I don’t hear the high limit thermostat open up, it means I loaded the machine properly.

 

[DADoES]

 
I'm drying a load of 15 bath towels of varying sizes, none are "bath sheets."  And one wash cloth.

On auto-sense.

How much time should it reasonably require?

 

[Chetlaham]

Here is what an average full load of mostly towels looks like for me. Is your load more, less or equal to this?

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
Dryer volume is a bit tricky to visually compare on front-view vs. top-view.

Finished FLUFFY load put back into the washer, just a smidgen compressed so it's within the basket.

Folded.

Time estimate to start of cool down, and complete to end of cool down (to 95°F, 10 mins max)?

 

[Chetlaham]

Good point. Here is my typical mostly whites load folded- 7 shirts, 13 briefs, 11 towels (about half are medium, other half large) and two small hand towels.   

 

 

About 80 minutes for dry time at medium heat.

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
You're estimating 80 mins for my towels to completion including cool down?

Regular cycle, normal Dryness level.  Display says Medium+ temp vs. High or just Medium.  Easy Iron says Medium without the +.  Heavy cycle says High.

The cycle matrix in the service manual references Heavy and Regular temp targets both as 149°F.  Easy Iron as 140°F.  There's no reference to the +.  Maybe it's related to sensor algorithms.  Or maybe someone on the programming team was being cutesy.

High 149°F runs both elements (3.6 and 1.4 kW).  Medium 140°F runs only the 3.6 kW element.  The 1.4 kW runs solo during the brief reverse-tumble periods.

Anyone else want to take a guess before I post the numbers later tonight?

 

[Chetlaham]

80 Minutes on my dryer. I start at 70 minutes on the timed dry cycle, and when it gets to 60 or 50 I move it back to 70 or 60. The cycle switches to soft heat about 10-15 minutes before the cool down, and then the dryer does a 10 minute cool down.

 

Larger loads get 90-100 minutes and stuffed pillow case get 100-120 minutes as those are really tough to dry.

 

Smaller loads above begin at 70 minutes and decrease in start time time as the load gets smaller. Dedicates get 40 minutes. 

 

In your dryer it would vary however. I'd imagine your washer is better with extraction, but at the same time I'm betting heating power and air volume is less over all. But then again air movent through the load might be better. So final numbers have my waiting in anticipation. 

 

 

[Chetlaham]

Keep in mind though that in my dryer the timed cycle used to be the 70 minute permanent press cycle and the sensor dry+ wrinkle guard used to be 130 minute regular cycle. The timer and gears at the same ~220 minute full revolution but the cam is re-notched for the sensor dry cycle and pulser system for the motor and buzzer in wrinkle guard. 

 

[DADoES]

 
Via a countdown timer of 90 mins:

  - Damp dryness level at 71:38

  - Dry, Cool Down commences at 50:55

  - Off at 41:45

100% completely dry.

 

[DADoES]

 
So, Dry at 39 minutes 5 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 39 min = 51:00, 50:59, 50:58, 50:57, 50:56, 50:55 = 39 min 5 sec elapsed time to Dry).

Cycle w/cool down complete at 48 minutes 15 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 48 min = 42:00, 41:59, 41:58, 41:57 ... 41:45 = 48 mins 15 seconds elapsed cycle time to Off).

 

[Chetlaham]

Love This!

Not bad bad all, that is quick for the load. 

 

 

I want to ask now, how fast does your washer spin and for how long? Do you know the reset (drop on) temperature once the elements cut out at 149*F?

 

You've now got me thinking about my dryer's thermostat reset temp. In my Maytag dryer medium (around 130*F-140*F) is achieved via a continuous running bias heater which in theory might effect the closing bandwidth since (I would assume) it does not cool off as fast when opening.   

 

 

Only thing I don't like about your dryer (respectfully, no offense intended) is how the 1.4kw heaters shuts off on the easy iron (140*F setting). The way I imagine the ideal dryer as shown below is with a single 5,600 watt heating element that cuts out at 135*F and resets at around 115*F. The heater is capable of being energized throughout the whole cycle except for a 7 minute cool down before the cycle finishes. The 7 minute cool down is just long enough to leave the clothes reasonably warm but not hot at the end of the cycle. The 5600 watt heater produces fast results when running but the dryer as a whole never gets above 135*F.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
I did not check the exhaust air directly.  Diagnostics on the dryer reports the instantaneous thermistor reading in °C.  (Electronics, a scam foisted upon the people!)

Regular cycle.  Empty drum.  4°C (7°F) between element cut-out and cut-in (per faint/audible click of the relay).  The reading increased 1°C after cut-out, decreased 4°C further after cut-in until increasing (no clothes load to moderate the swing).

Washer spin is 1,010 RPM (or 670 or 330).  Holds for ~7 mins after reaching the target ... maybe 6.5 mins considering coast-down.  May occasionally reduce 1,010 --> 900 if load vibration characteristics are wanting.

 

[Chetlaham]

 

 

 

Ok, that explains a lot then. Your washer spins way faster than mine. Mine is rated at 710rpm according to advertising. In reality with an aged belt (and what not) it could be going lower than that. So that could at least partly explain the extra time in my dryer if not completely.

 

Element reset time sounds like it is giving less bandwdith than my dryer though I've never tested it.

 

 

Overall, not bad.

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
Dried a queen-size quilt couple days ago in 37 mins and some seconds complete w/cool down.  Regular auto-sense cycle.  Completely dry, no damp spots.  Washed in the Neppy TL.  It had a cabinet-impact-off-balance on one of the interim spins which limits the final spin to 500 RPM.  I spun it again at the full 850 RPM.

 

[Chetlaham]

Not bad. You don't do your quilts on delicate?

 

 

I think you see where I might be going with this LOL. I have a liking for lower temps.

 

[maytag85]

In regards to the older 50’s WP/KM single cycle dryers

Here’s one thing you could do to those single cycle Whirlpool/Kenmore dryers to make them dry things to completion without having to reset the timer for more time. All you do is acquire a adjustable fan thermostat (that’s what some people use to modify the cool-down on electronically controlled Maytag HOH’s), wire the timer motor into the thermostat fan thermostat, set the thermostat to what the low temperature thermostat is rated for. How it’ll work is when it reaches the temperature the lower heat thermostat is rated for, it’ll open up and let power flow through and start running the timer motor. If you are drying a load of towels or a large load of cottons, it will simply delay the timer motor from coming on until it reaches about 120F -125F -130F. Since the high heat thermostat is rated for 160F to 165F, the fan thermostat will stay open until it reaches the cool-down. Simply by delaying the timer from coming on for 5 - 10 -15 - 20 minutes, won’t have to worry about having to reset the timer. Just thought I’d point this out since this popped into my mind the other day.

 

[DADoES]

 
I've monitored the diagnostics thermistor reading for several element on/off cycles during a few loads at regular/high temp and with the drum empty.  The element relay clicks off at 57°C, with the reading sometimes increasing to 58°C before it begins to drop.  57°C is 134.6°F, not 149°F.  Element cut-in is at 53°C (127.4°F), thus the 7.2°F (4°C) differential  I have not checked medium or low temps, or made an effort to check the airflow at the exhaust hood.