Kenmore Single Cycle Dryer

[DADoES]

 
Via a countdown timer of 90 mins:

  - Damp dryness level at 71:38

  - Dry, Cool Down commences at 50:55

  - Off at 41:45

100% completely dry.

 

[DADoES]

 
So, Dry at 39 minutes 5 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 39 min = 51:00, 50:59, 50:58, 50:57, 50:56, 50:55 = 39 min 5 sec elapsed time to Dry).

Cycle w/cool down complete at 48 minutes 15 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 48 min = 42:00, 41:59, 41:58, 41:57 ... 41:45 = 48 mins 15 seconds elapsed cycle time to Off).

 

[Chetlaham]

Love This!

Not bad bad all, that is quick for the load. 

 

 

I want to ask now, how fast does your washer spin and for how long? Do you know the reset (drop on) temperature once the elements cut out at 149*F?

 

You've now got me thinking about my dryer's thermostat reset temp. In my Maytag dryer medium (around 130*F-140*F) is achieved via a continuous running bias heater which in theory might effect the closing bandwidth since (I would assume) it does not cool off as fast when opening.   

 

 

Only thing I don't like about your dryer (respectfully, no offense intended) is how the 1.4kw heaters shuts off on the easy iron (140*F setting). The way I imagine the ideal dryer as shown below is with a single 5,600 watt heating element that cuts out at 135*F and resets at around 115*F. The heater is capable of being energized throughout the whole cycle except for a 7 minute cool down before the cycle finishes. The 7 minute cool down is just long enough to leave the clothes reasonably warm but not hot at the end of the cycle. The 5600 watt heater produces fast results when running but the dryer as a whole never gets above 135*F.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
I did not check the exhaust air directly.  Diagnostics on the dryer reports the instantaneous thermistor reading in °C.  (Electronics, a scam foisted upon the people!)

Regular cycle.  Empty drum.  4°C (7°F) between element cut-out and cut-in (per faint/audible click of the relay).  The reading increased 1°C after cut-out, decreased 4°C further after cut-in until increasing (no clothes load to moderate the swing).

Washer spin is 1,010 RPM (or 670 or 330).  Holds for ~7 mins after reaching the target ... maybe 6.5 mins considering coast-down.  May occasionally reduce 1,010 --> 900 if load vibration characteristics are wanting.

 

[Chetlaham]

 

 

 

Ok, that explains a lot then. Your washer spins way faster than mine. Mine is rated at 710rpm according to advertising. In reality with an aged belt (and what not) it could be going lower than that. So that could at least partly explain the extra time in my dryer if not completely.

 

Element reset time sounds like it is giving less bandwdith than my dryer though I've never tested it.

 

 

Overall, not bad.

 

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
Dried a queen-size quilt couple days ago in 37 mins and some seconds complete w/cool down.  Regular auto-sense cycle.  Completely dry, no damp spots.  Washed in the Neppy TL.  It had a cabinet-impact-off-balance on one of the interim spins which limits the final spin to 500 RPM.  I spun it again at the full 850 RPM.

 

[Chetlaham]

Not bad. You don't do your quilts on delicate?

 

 

I think you see where I might be going with this LOL. I have a liking for lower temps.

 

[maytag85]

In regards to the older 50’s WP/KM single cycle dryers

Here’s one thing you could do to those single cycle Whirlpool/Kenmore dryers to make them dry things to completion without having to reset the timer for more time. All you do is acquire a adjustable fan thermostat (that’s what some people use to modify the cool-down on electronically controlled Maytag HOH’s), wire the timer motor into the thermostat fan thermostat, set the thermostat to what the low temperature thermostat is rated for. How it’ll work is when it reaches the temperature the lower heat thermostat is rated for, it’ll open up and let power flow through and start running the timer motor. If you are drying a load of towels or a large load of cottons, it will simply delay the timer motor from coming on until it reaches about 120F -125F -130F. Since the high heat thermostat is rated for 160F to 165F, the fan thermostat will stay open until it reaches the cool-down. Simply by delaying the timer from coming on for 5 - 10 -15 - 20 minutes, won’t have to worry about having to reset the timer. Just thought I’d point this out since this popped into my mind the other day.

 

[DADoES]

 
I've monitored the diagnostics thermistor reading for several element on/off cycles during a few loads at regular/high temp and with the drum empty.  The element relay clicks off at 57°C, with the reading sometimes increasing to 58°C before it begins to drop.  57°C is 134.6°F, not 149°F.  Element cut-in is at 53°C (127.4°F), thus the 7.2°F (4°C) differential  I have not checked medium or low temps, or made an effort to check the airflow at the exhaust hood.