What did Kenmore mean when they listed "soft heat" on their control panels? Is this some type of feature, electronic control or a lower thermostat setting? I always like the emblem.
Kenmore Soft Heat
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launderess
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https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?45208
https://www.google.com/search?q="soft+heat"+kenmore+dryer+site:www.automaticwasher.org&client=opera&hs=FPU&sca_esv=63153777c7903089&sca_upv=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjmpav9uqaIAxXPAHkGHSrhBd0QrQIoBHoECCYQBQ&biw=983&bih=671&dpr=1.3
Oh, Neat!
Ok, so it seems like earlier models used either a modulating gas valve or multiple heating elements which maintained a relatively even exhaust temperature. While latter models switched on their bias heater for low heat 10-15 minutes before the cool down.
Neat.
My Maytag Centennial dryer does this, it will switch on low heat before the cool down. The concept doesn't work well with heavy loads, though it is what it is.
Ok, so it seems like earlier models used either a modulating gas valve or multiple heating elements which maintained a relatively even exhaust temperature. While latter models switched on their bias heater for low heat 10-15 minutes before the cool down.
Neat.
My Maytag Centennial dryer does this, it will switch on low heat before the cool down. The concept doesn't work well with heavy loads, though it is what it is.
Maytag Dryer MEDC300XW0
Confirming- looking at my Maytag dryer it seems like it also has soft heat. Contact BU-V is labelled as "soft heat" and closes about 10 minutes before the cool down in both the timed dry and sensor dry cycles by energizing the thermostat bias heater in full.
I guess the answer was in front of me all along yet somehow I never made the connection that the dryer switching to low heat before the cool down for a type of soft heat.
Personally I don't like the concept, at least not in the way its being used/offered, in that my dryer does not have a normal cycle offering a 130 minute timed dry. 70 minutes with 10 minutes of low heat followed by a 10 minute cool down does not work well with heavy denim or towel loads on medium heat. I personally like medium heat all the way through with a 5 minute cool down for regular loads.
GE uses a similar concept with two heating elements, though their design relies on the temperate of the heater housing ("drum inlet") and not the exhaust itself. I've noticed GE's concept cutouts way to soon in the load leaving only one heater running throughout most of the dry cycle. I wonder if that has something to do with reduced air flow in that GE dryers were built to run at 120 volts at one point.
Confirming- looking at my Maytag dryer it seems like it also has soft heat. Contact BU-V is labelled as "soft heat" and closes about 10 minutes before the cool down in both the timed dry and sensor dry cycles by energizing the thermostat bias heater in full.
I guess the answer was in front of me all along yet somehow I never made the connection that the dryer switching to low heat before the cool down for a type of soft heat.
Personally I don't like the concept, at least not in the way its being used/offered, in that my dryer does not have a normal cycle offering a 130 minute timed dry. 70 minutes with 10 minutes of low heat followed by a 10 minute cool down does not work well with heavy denim or towel loads on medium heat. I personally like medium heat all the way through with a 5 minute cool down for regular loads.
GE uses a similar concept with two heating elements, though their design relies on the temperate of the heater housing ("drum inlet") and not the exhaust itself. I've noticed GE's concept cutouts way to soon in the load leaving only one heater running throughout most of the dry cycle. I wonder if that has something to do with reduced air flow in that GE dryers were built to run at 120 volts at one point.
Think by putting a 120F cycling thermostat in my Maytag DE806 along with a 180F high limit thermostat in, I invented the Maytag ‘Soft Heat’ HOH dryer. I’ve noticed the front of the cabinet gets quite warm if not somewhat hot to the touch with a large load of towels, but gradually gets cooler towards the end of the cycle. Even my Maytag DG407 exhibited the same thing, from of the cabinet would be quite warm to the touch and as the cycle progressed, it would get cooler and cooler to the touch.
Sean, at what temp is delicate, medium and normal supposed to open at?
In my experience dryers do best at medium heat, I feel like the high setting on most dryers is just way to hot for the load and the machine itself.
I've also found that medium heat doesn't work as well with auto dry cycles and big loads in that the stat opening begins advancing the timer to soon. Not so much an issue with Kenmore dryers, but I remember my 1998 GE would always shutoff with the load damp on press care.
In my experience dryers do best at medium heat, I feel like the high setting on most dryers is just way to hot for the load and the machine itself.
I've also found that medium heat doesn't work as well with auto dry cycles and big loads in that the stat opening begins advancing the timer to soon. Not so much an issue with Kenmore dryers, but I remember my 1998 GE would always shutoff with the load damp on press care.
"70 minutes with 10 minutes of low heat followed by a 10 minute cool down does not work well with heavy denim or towel loads on medium heat. I personally like medium heat all the way through with a 5 minute cool down for regular loads."
Why not use the sensor cycle and select the "More Dry" option?
Why not use the sensor cycle and select the "More Dry" option?
The dryer advances into a 90 minute wrinkle guard which cycles the motor on and off. I've never had a need for it.
"The dryer advances into a 90 minute wrinkle guard which cycles the motor on and off."
Yeah, I kind of figured that was the case but thought I'd ask. I never run the dryer without being present so I'd catch it before it cycled the more than once. Usually there's a way to turn that feature off but not on this model.
Get a vintage TOL Newton Maytag from 1976-1989
Yeah, I kind of figured that was the case but thought I'd ask. I never run the dryer without being present so I'd catch it before it cycled the more than once. Usually there's a way to turn that feature off but not on this model.
Get a vintage TOL Newton Maytag from 1976-1989
Sadly. Its being present what annoys me lol. Most of the time I like to let the dryer stop while I finish other housework or I'm on the computer. Hearing it cycles grinds my gears.
The same timer motor on old dryers had a 130 minute normal cycle that has now been turned into a combined sensor dry + wrinkle guard cycle. Awful thing to do, I hate what energy regs have done.
I should get a vintage Maytag, though being honest I like Whirlpool top mounted filter dryers better. Some old models were 100% timed dry on all cycles, I might one day see if I can drop in one of those timers. Mounting holes are the same I think.
The same timer motor on old dryers had a 130 minute normal cycle that has now been turned into a combined sensor dry + wrinkle guard cycle. Awful thing to do, I hate what energy regs have done.
I should get a vintage Maytag, though being honest I like Whirlpool top mounted filter dryers better. Some old models were 100% timed dry on all cycles, I might one day see if I can drop in one of those timers. Mounting holes are the same I think.
Nmassman44 disclosed our LG dryers (the dryer models corresponding to our front load washers) essentially did the same thing as the original soft heat Kenmore dryers when using the electronic sensor Normal cycle. I have no idea if it does, but Mike seems to manage to dig and unearth all sorts of thibngs I've never been able to unearth myself. I usually pick the cycle that provides the heat temp (high, medium high, medium, delicate) that I want. I will admit I've tried drying my loads of towels (which consist of the same items for each load of towels) and I've noticed the loads take a little bit longer when using Normal vs. Towels cycle. Only thing I could speculate is the Normal cycle gradually reduces heat as the load dries. I prefer just selecting the cycle/tempereature I desire for a particular load.
<blockquote>Most of the time I like to let the dryer stop while I finish other housework or I'm on the computer. Hearing it cycles grinds my gears.</blockquote> You're apparently in the house and within earshot of the dryer but not ready to unload it. Perhaps go open/close the door to cancel the Wrinkle Prevent?
(vs. me who sometimes purposely allows the SmartLoad's Wrinkle Free function continue cycling overnight, which I find makes towels and jeans and cargo shorts a bit softened without the need for a softener product and normalizes the residual moisture content to ambient characteristics. No, that doesn't mean they're moist when drying is done.)
Chet, you need to get out of the house more often.
Never understood Whirlpools ridiculously long Wrinkle Guard (or whatever it's called now) cycle. Cycling the motor on and off for hours on end is a waste of electricity and producing a bunch of wear on the motor/start switch and probably eating up at least one contact on the timer. Just unload the f***ing dryer already.
<blockquote>Never understood Whirlpools ridiculously long Wrinkle Guard ...</blockquote> LOL, how long is long? 4 hrs? 7 hrs? 12 hrs? Nope ... ;-)
I guess enough people have items that need to be either pulled out immediately, tumbled, or they wrinkle. I remember back in the day buzzer and wrinkle guard Kenmores were selling. Today its misting dryers.
@dadoes: wheres the fun in pulling out hot towels lol? A 5 minute cool down without prior temperature grading makes for a real luxurious experience. Yes you can't wear jeans because the button gets to hot, yet everything else is totally worth it. Super warm underwear, shirts, socks, towels, sheets, pillow cases ect. you have to try it.
@neptunebob: Never run appliances while away. The internet is full of anecdotes as to why you shouldn't. I know you don't agree with me mourning the loss of my normal cycle however doing laundry out of the house is just bad advice.
@dadoes: wheres the fun in pulling out hot towels lol? A 5 minute cool down without prior temperature grading makes for a real luxurious experience. Yes you can't wear jeans because the button gets to hot, yet everything else is totally worth it. Super warm underwear, shirts, socks, towels, sheets, pillow cases ect. you have to try it.
@neptunebob: Never run appliances while away. The internet is full of anecdotes as to why you shouldn't. I know you don't agree with me mourning the loss of my normal cycle however doing laundry out of the house is just bad advice.
In addition to that avocado Kenmore dryer in one of the threads boasting that feature, there is also the feature dubbed as Fabric Master...
My childhood friohad that exact dryer as well as the matching washer in that avocado green...
Is the fabric master feature a temperature controlled, or actually done with an electronic sensor?
Never knew much about that Soft Heat tag used in generations of Kenmore dryers, other than being that sales gimmick...
-- Dave
My childhood friohad that exact dryer as well as the matching washer in that avocado green...
Is the fabric master feature a temperature controlled, or actually done with an electronic sensor?
Never knew much about that Soft Heat tag used in generations of Kenmore dryers, other than being that sales gimmick...
-- Dave
My dryer has the cool down on auto-sensor cycles variable to 95°F, although maximum of 10 mins. Timed dry is fixed 10 mins for the 40- and 80-min selections, 5 mins for 20 mins.
I have no desire to don hot garments or towels in the TX summer or fall or spring ... or the couple months of winter.
90 mins is outrageously long for a Wrinkle Prevent function? Lady Kenmore and some other KM models and the vintage WP TOLs that had it were 2-1/2 hrs as I recall. That's a fraction of mine, and it's an option on auto-dry and timed.
Dave, I believe Kenmore Fabric Master refers to thermostatic auto-dry. Electronic sensor is typically stated as electronic sensor and/or solid-state.
My new dryer I bought for my new house has the wrinkle guard.When it first started cycling-thought something was wrong-read thru the book and found out.Now turn the dryer off when it gets to wrinkle guard.Can agree-puts more cycling of the motor start switches and or cap.
90 min wrinkle prevent
My understanding is the timer motor and gears were originally tooled around 220 minutes of time to accommodate a 120 minute timed normal cycle and a 75 minute timed press care cycle. Obviously the sensor dry only requires a fraction of that time, and press care became timed dry, so the remaining 90 minutes became the wrinkle guard. Thats where my angst comes from, the timer was originally built to support a 120 minute timed dry cycle- one that I need.
I can understand hot clothes being less desirable in heat and humidity, come colder climates it does have its perks, especially when there is cold back draft from the exhaust vent in the dead of winter. Can't stand cold clothes.
My understanding is the timer motor and gears were originally tooled around 220 minutes of time to accommodate a 120 minute timed normal cycle and a 75 minute timed press care cycle. Obviously the sensor dry only requires a fraction of that time, and press care became timed dry, so the remaining 90 minutes became the wrinkle guard. Thats where my angst comes from, the timer was originally built to support a 120 minute timed dry cycle- one that I need.
I can understand hot clothes being less desirable in heat and humidity, come colder climates it does have its perks, especially when there is cold back draft from the exhaust vent in the dead of winter. Can't stand cold clothes.
Soft heat and Wrinkle guard
The original soft heat systems that whirlpool built for Sears Kenmore were not a particularly low heat. It was a nice constant heat gas dryers hovered around 165° with the modulating burner they didn’t give you any temperature choice on these dryers, today most consumers feel like it’s a little too hot Later, so called soft heat cycles tapered the heat down toward the end of the drying cycle , A very different thing.
Wrinkle guard, and whirlpools finish guard were both introduced in the later 60s and originally gave you 2 1/2 hours of wrinkle prevention. The dryer tumbled every five minutes for 10 seconds without heat total running time was only about five minutes if you let it go the full 2 1/2 hours power Consumption was negligible and the extra starts on the motor never Hurt anything of the more than a dozen dryers I’ve used on a regular basis with Wrinkle guard I’ve never had a motor switch failure. These motors are designed to start millions of times and the dryer is starting with very little load because it’s a load of dry light Clothing.
John
The original soft heat systems that whirlpool built for Sears Kenmore were not a particularly low heat. It was a nice constant heat gas dryers hovered around 165° with the modulating burner they didn’t give you any temperature choice on these dryers, today most consumers feel like it’s a little too hot Later, so called soft heat cycles tapered the heat down toward the end of the drying cycle , A very different thing.
Wrinkle guard, and whirlpools finish guard were both introduced in the later 60s and originally gave you 2 1/2 hours of wrinkle prevention. The dryer tumbled every five minutes for 10 seconds without heat total running time was only about five minutes if you let it go the full 2 1/2 hours power Consumption was negligible and the extra starts on the motor never Hurt anything of the more than a dozen dryers I’ve used on a regular basis with Wrinkle guard I’ve never had a motor switch failure. These motors are designed to start millions of times and the dryer is starting with very little load because it’s a load of dry light Clothing.
John
Reply #5
The thermostat opens up at 120F, closes at 105F. That may be a little on the lower end, but certainly much easier on clothing not to mention the machine itself. Since there’s a 60F difference between the 120F cycling thermostat and 180F high limit thermostat, haven’t heard the high limit thermostat open in over a month, usually it’s an audible click when it opens.
Might think it would be slower with a 120F thermostat and can be with certain loads, but surprisingly is fairly quick since it holds a more consistent temperature.
The thermostat opens up at 120F, closes at 105F. That may be a little on the lower end, but certainly much easier on clothing not to mention the machine itself. Since there’s a 60F difference between the 120F cycling thermostat and 180F high limit thermostat, haven’t heard the high limit thermostat open in over a month, usually it’s an audible click when it opens.
Might think it would be slower with a 120F thermostat and can be with certain loads, but surprisingly is fairly quick since it holds a more consistent temperature.
Yes, I forgot about the Wrinkle Guard being the feature that said dryer (the radio dial one my friend had) boasted...
My way newer K-M has that (billed as Wrinkle Guard II) as well...
-- Dave
My way newer K-M has that (billed as Wrinkle Guard II) as well...
-- Dave
"I’ve never had a motor switch failure."
I doubt any repairmen has replaced a motor start switch in over 35 years on a customers washer/dryer. Any motor problem (start switch or not) gets replaced except for a motor capacitor. Even then...
I doubt any repairmen has replaced a motor start switch in over 35 years on a customers washer/dryer. Any motor problem (start switch or not) gets replaced except for a motor capacitor. Even then...
Centrifugal start switches on clothes dryers
I do still occasionally replaces centrifugal start switch because the heater contacts on electric dryers will burn up, your right Dan that generally people do not replace just the switch. Domestic clothes dryers do not use start capacitors either or run capacitors for that matter.
I wondered about start switch durability when they first came out with Wrinkle guard back in the 70s when we got our first one in the family, but I’ve certainly never seen any correlation between Wrinkle Guard motor switch failures. And use of this feature.
I do still occasionally replaces centrifugal start switch because the heater contacts on electric dryers will burn up, your right Dan that generally people do not replace just the switch. Domestic clothes dryers do not use start capacitors either or run capacitors for that matter.
I wondered about start switch durability when they first came out with Wrinkle guard back in the 70s when we got our first one in the family, but I’ve certainly never seen any correlation between Wrinkle Guard motor switch failures. And use of this feature.
Honestly, motor switches fail when they fail, it’s just something that happens. If you have an older style of round motor, can clean and disassemble them for cleaning and oiling.
Think lint is what causes the start switch to stick which cause issues, certainly causes overheating issues.
Think lint is what causes the start switch to stick which cause issues, certainly causes overheating issues.
SmartLoad's Wrinkle Free function runs a bit more than 23 hrs (255 30-sec tumbles on 5-min cycling) or until the user interrupts it for unloading. The motor is 3-phase variable speed/reversing (2,300 RPM for normal tumbling). No start winding/switch. There is a holding relay that energizes from press of Start until operation is complete, including Wrinkle Free if selected.
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