Kenmore Spin Pulley Bearing Replacement

[kenmore70]

I was removing the spin pulley from the spin tube and on the spin tube it was scored a little near the top from the seal, and when I twisted off the pulley I think it scored the inside of the bearing (see pics). I probably shouldn't have done that, but do you guys think I should replace this bearing? If so can you suggest how to do that? I don't have any special bearing removal/installation tool. I found a parts supplier that still carries the bearing, part #16033.

Thanks

 

[swestoyz]

If you don't have a press, a machine shop would be able to press out the old bearing and press in the new one. Shouldn't take them longer than 15-20 minutes to do.  I personally would replace the bearing, but I imagine that out in the wild there are worse bearings still in service.

 

If you want to press it out yourself, I did document the procedure in a thread last year.

 

Ben

1959 Kenmore - Restoration

Hey gang! I know I've been quiet lately, but it doesn't mean I haven't been lurking in the basement, working and tweaking on different appliances hiding down there. In fact, there is SO much down there, that some stuff needs to go! That's where this 1959 Kenmore Eighty comes into play. ...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[kenmore70]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for you response, I actually saw your thread on this while searching the archives. What is that device that you used to press out and install the bearing? I don't have anything like that so I was wondering if there is another way to do it, otherwise I will probably have to take it somewhere. Thanks

 

[swestoyz]

It is a 20 ton shop press, normally used for automotive purposes, but it can certainly be handy in this hobby for pressing bearings.  My dad and I have been using this press for years to press out u-joints from drive shafts.

 

You *might* be able to do the job with the sockets I suggested and a bench vise, but finding one with a long enough jaw capacity may be tricky.

 

Before going crazy with the bearing, you could try taking some emery cloth to smooth the surface of the ID. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/shop-presses/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Another way to press the bearing out...

My mentor buddy showed me a procedure years ago which reguires no special tools, just a heavy hammer and three 2x4 blocks of wood.

1) Position two of the 2x4s side by side parallel so they can support the pulley over the floor or workbench.

2) Take the new 16033 bearing and position it above the old one.

3) Position the third 2x4 block on top of the new bearing and hammer on the block until it begins to drive the old bearing out the bottom of the pulley. You may have to hold the new bearing secure atop the old one briefly. Using some turbine oil on the outer edges of the pulley may help drive it in.

4) Drive the pulley in until it is flush on both sides of the pulley as the original was.

I've only had to do this a couple times as I usually just re-lubricate the old bearing or go all the way with a new basket drive. Its usually the set-screw hole that will score the pulley, that or the edges of the teeth/tabs at the top of the spin tube.

Good luck Tom!

Gordon

 

[combo52]

WP-KM Clutch Pulley Bearing Replacement

The scoring probably will not hurt the life of the bearing if it was good to start with, try the pulley assembly on a good shaft and see if the bearing seems worn.

As you know now never force a bearing over rough areas, I always file the burrs off around the set screw hole etc and if the spin tube is in bad shape just cut the old spin tube off with a hacksaw above the top brake.

If you do press in a new bearing you should fill the grove in the cast-iron pulley behind the bearing to assure good lubrication.

John L.