blockeight88
Well-known member
Was this a rare model then?
Kenmore Top Loader?
- Thread starter blockeight88
- Start date
Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:
Tech Sheet
Should be able to be pulled up by a registered service tech. Can anyone help?
Typically unless a user has trouble with their machine and asks for the wiring diagram on a forum linked to Google, they are hard to come by, as unfair as it is.
The machine in question is not rare, in fact these tend to show up more than BOL machines in seller listings.
As with anything Kenmore, you're buying the creme de la creme of a Whirlpool product, and one of the best overall washer line ups ever made. No better balance of clean-ability, flexibility, longevity, durability, clothing care and servicability has ever been offered for the price IMO. I wouldn't hesitate as this machine has all the legit features and combinations a user could ask for.
Should be able to be pulled up by a registered service tech. Can anyone help?
Typically unless a user has trouble with their machine and asks for the wiring diagram on a forum linked to Google, they are hard to come by, as unfair as it is.
The machine in question is not rare, in fact these tend to show up more than BOL machines in seller listings.
As with anything Kenmore, you're buying the creme de la creme of a Whirlpool product, and one of the best overall washer line ups ever made. No better balance of clean-ability, flexibility, longevity, durability, clothing care and servicability has ever been offered for the price IMO. I wouldn't hesitate as this machine has all the legit features and combinations a user could ask for.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Chetlaham
Except according to the owner’s manual the warm rinse is controlled to 75F. It also doesn’t do a hot/warm which bums me out.
Except according to the owner’s manual the warm rinse is controlled to 75F. It also doesn’t do a hot/warm which bums me out.
I found the tech sheet. The timer sequence chart indicates Bleach Dispense during the last 3 increments (6 mins) of the wash period on Ultra Clean. Last 2 increments (4 mins) on Perm Press.
A warm rinse (warm such as it is) with hot wash can be had by changing the setting to either of the Warm rinse choices after the wash fill is done with hot.
Or you can be a dial-pusher and get a warm rinse at the warm *wash* temps by using the Pre Wash cycle as a manual extra rinse.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Rinse
Yea but why did they omit hot/warm? The first machine pictured has it. My warm wash temp gets to about 100F. The rinse should too, when selected. The knob should read “Warm/Cool” as that more accurately describes the rinse temp.
Yea but why did they omit hot/warm? The first machine pictured has it. My warm wash temp gets to about 100F. The rinse should too, when selected. The knob should read “Warm/Cool” as that more accurately describes the rinse temp.
Nice! Can you post or link to the cycle sheet?
(The ones I've seen for EM Kenmore Elites are relatively simple for all the cycle options, a big plus in dependability and repair)
I personally would not worry about having a 75*F rinse. IMO, no enhanced rinsing is gained at 100*F vs 75*F. Both temps relax the fabric and will dilute away detergent. The whole idea of an ATS warm rinse is to allow the user the option of not having to rinse clothes in stone cold water during the winter while saving energy over an unregulated warm fill which can get quite warm in the summer even with a 30/70 water valve. I say this on experience, 65*F cold water and 150*F hot warm makes for a strong warm.
Hot/Warm- I hear you! I wish all washers could have this feature. Sadly not so. If you really wanted it I guess you could tinker with the fill circuit and set something up as previous generations of Kenmores offered hot/warm.
(The ones I've seen for EM Kenmore Elites are relatively simple for all the cycle options, a big plus in dependability and repair)
I personally would not worry about having a 75*F rinse. IMO, no enhanced rinsing is gained at 100*F vs 75*F. Both temps relax the fabric and will dilute away detergent. The whole idea of an ATS warm rinse is to allow the user the option of not having to rinse clothes in stone cold water during the winter while saving energy over an unregulated warm fill which can get quite warm in the summer even with a 30/70 water valve. I say this on experience, 65*F cold water and 150*F hot warm makes for a strong warm.
Hot/Warm- I hear you! I wish all washers could have this feature. Sadly not so. If you really wanted it I guess you could tinker with the fill circuit and set something up as previous generations of Kenmores offered hot/warm.
Hot/Warm as a direct choice, of course, was eliminated for energy concerns.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Thank you for the info on the warm rinse. I guess 75*F is sufficient. So if warmer water relaxes the fabric, then why isn't' this option widely available on today's machines? I live in the Midwest where the winters are extremely cold and the incoming water is between 42-50 in the dead of winter. How do these new machines wash out detergent residue in cold climates?
Graphic quality of the tech sheet is not the best and it's too large for full view in one image.
The bleach valve (wax motor) is energized through the wash drain period, total 4 increments on Ultra Clean, 3 increments on PP.
There are sprays in the first and second spin on both cycles. Not in the Extra Rinse spin.
Dry Agitate at the last 2-mins of the wash period on Ultra Clean facilitates agitation and neutral drain testing without water. The lid switch is in the circuit at that point.
Also an editing/typing tip: A ° symbol can be had via [Alt]248 (using the number pad for the digits) on a computer keyboard, and an iPhone (maybe others) via press-hold 0 (zero) for extended character choices.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Spray Rinse
I have never seen one of these do a spray rinse after the wash cycle and first rinse.
I have never seen one of these do a spray rinse after the wash cycle and first rinse.
That initial machine with the soft, rubbery knob is probably a last well-built, well-furnished machine, of the early-to-mid-'90's...
-- Dave
-- Dave
A simple solution to getting a hot/warm or hot/cold combination on a machine that won't allow it is to do what my mother does... set the control for warm/warm or warm/cold, then turn off the cold water valve while the washer is filling for the wash cycle. Or you can adjust the warm water temperature to whatever you like by only opening the cold water valve partially. Make sure to turn it back on fully after the wash fill is completed or you will end up with a hot rinse. Of course this might not be possible or inconvenient if the water valves are not easily accessible.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Reply 42
Well if you set to warm/cold and turn off the cold water nothing would even come out during the rinse cycle because the machine isn’t designed to allow anything but cold in. Now if you selected warm/warm and did this you would get hot water for rinse. Unless you limited the cold water valve.
Probably just best to use the pre wash cycle for the rinse
Well if you set to warm/cold and turn off the cold water nothing would even come out during the rinse cycle because the machine isn’t designed to allow anything but cold in. Now if you selected warm/warm and did this you would get hot water for rinse. Unless you limited the cold water valve.
Probably just best to use the pre wash cycle for the rinse
If I had this washer...
I would use the heavy duty cycle all the time as I have mostly cotton fabrics. They're all sturdy.
I would use the heavy duty cycle all the time as I have mostly cotton fabrics. They're all sturdy.
blockeight88
Well-known member
GElaunrdy
The heavy duty cycle is nixie but isn’t it too rough on clothes? I’ll probably use Normal
The heavy duty cycle is nixie but isn’t it too rough on clothes? I’ll probably use Normal
There's no need to run Fast agitation on everything, whether cotton or not. It really is unnecessarily aggressive. Run a short wash time if hell-bent on it. Better results are garnered with enzyme detergents via slower agitation and longer wash time ... longer exposure for enzymes to work.
Fast/Fast vs Sow/Fast
The way I think of Kenmore/Whirlpool DD washers is that they are the only washer ever made with an actual Heavy Duty cycle. 10 minutes of slow agitation provides about the same fabric wear and tear as 10 minutes of high speed agitation on other top load washers.
I know of single speed washers (like GE for example) that put the delicate cycle on on the high speed permanent press cycle, where as nearly all 2 speed Whirlpool washers switched to some combination of low speed agitation on the normal cycle several years after the first DDs came out. I do not recall Whirlpool ever placing delicate on a continuous high speed cycle, and the very few in existence single speed Whirlpool made washers that did have "delicate" on the knob used short 5-10 second bursts of agitation.
When shopping at Sears the salesmen would always tell me to go with a 2 speed washer as the single speed versions "chewed up" the clothes.
In short slow speed agitation is normal speed agitation and ex slow tends to be closer to that of delicate when using a DD machine.
The way I think of Kenmore/Whirlpool DD washers is that they are the only washer ever made with an actual Heavy Duty cycle. 10 minutes of slow agitation provides about the same fabric wear and tear as 10 minutes of high speed agitation on other top load washers.
I know of single speed washers (like GE for example) that put the delicate cycle on on the high speed permanent press cycle, where as nearly all 2 speed Whirlpool washers switched to some combination of low speed agitation on the normal cycle several years after the first DDs came out. I do not recall Whirlpool ever placing delicate on a continuous high speed cycle, and the very few in existence single speed Whirlpool made washers that did have "delicate" on the knob used short 5-10 second bursts of agitation.
When shopping at Sears the salesmen would always tell me to go with a 2 speed washer as the single speed versions "chewed up" the clothes.
In short slow speed agitation is normal speed agitation and ex slow tends to be closer to that of delicate when using a DD machine.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Kenmore Elite Restoration
So I wanted to share some pictures of the Kenmore Elite's restoration thus far. The seller has painted the cabinet, changed the motor coupler, replaced the entire suspension system, replaced the clutch, and changed out the neutral drain kit. Here are some pictures.
So I wanted to share some pictures of the Kenmore Elite's restoration thus far. The seller has painted the cabinet, changed the motor coupler, replaced the entire suspension system, replaced the clutch, and changed out the neutral drain kit. Here are some pictures.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Additional Photos
Yay, that's how to do it a DD refurb.
The bleach reservoir on the tub ring is seen in Reply 48, pics 8 and 20.
Photo 8 has a Fisher & Paykel SmartLoad topload dryer in the background.
Hope that blue film comes off the panel, it should never been left on there.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Blue plastic
It did. It actually protected the finish underneath.
It did. It actually protected the finish underneath.
blockeight88
Well-known member
So the seller is nearly done with restoring the Kenmore. He is noting that the machine is wobbling (as he put it) during spin. He has it on a concrete floor. He has replaced nearly every major component in this machine, including the suspension system. He is wanting to swap out the counter balance ring and replace all four 4 leveling legs. Given that the suspension system is new, what could be causing this issue?
WP- KM DD tub wobble when spinning
Some Tub wobble is normal with no clothing at normal spin speed.
Check to see if balance ring is 50% full of water, remove cabinet and tub cover and lay machine on its side, with a bright light it should be about 1/2 full.
Very unlikely that anything is wrong with the feet unless you can see any damage.
How much experience does this person have working on DD washers ?
John L.
Some Tub wobble is normal with no clothing at normal spin speed.
Check to see if balance ring is 50% full of water, remove cabinet and tub cover and lay machine on its side, with a bright light it should be about 1/2 full.
Very unlikely that anything is wrong with the feet unless you can see any damage.
How much experience does this person have working on DD washers ?
John L.
blockeight88
Well-known member
He suggested the counter balance ring being the culprit right away. He told me he has been working on direct drive washers for over 20 years. I've seen his work and he does a great job.
I never knew the counter balance ring could go bad. So they're suppose to have 50% water inside there? If that's the case, doesn't it dry up over time?
I never knew the counter balance ring could go bad. So they're suppose to have 50% water inside there? If that's the case, doesn't it dry up over time?
The balance ring is sealed at manufacture. Can't leak unless it's cracked, damaged in some way.
blockeight88
Well-known member
So if the counter balance ring isn't the issue, what could be causing the wobble? He said it's fine running an empty load, but with adding or medium/large large, it's pretty bad.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Issue was the inner tub. Apparently that was defective. Has been swapped out and now the machine appears very solid and doesn’t wobble/shake/or vibrate.
blockeight88
Well-known member
Are you listing, I said it is normal for an empty DD washer to not spin smoothly
They actually spin more smoothly wit a full load.
WP did not design their washers to run empty.
John L.
They actually spin more smoothly wit a full load.
WP did not design their washers to run empty.
John L.
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