I recently aquired this very nice Kitchen Aid dryer that works great EXCEPT that it seems s l o w at drying. Whether on automatic or timed dry with HIGH heat selected, every load has to be dried a second time. Today I dried a load of towels, set timed dry at 70 minutes. When done, load was still damp. Dried another 20 minutes, still not dry. Set it for 20 more minutes and clothes were finally dry. I do realize that part of this 20 minutes is cool down with no heat. All the felt and seals seem fine. All airways have been taken apart and cleaned, no obstructions. This dryer is not permanently installed, therefore there is no vent to be clogged. Is this normal for this dryer or ???
Kitchen Aid KEYS850 dryer advice needed
- Thread starter sambootoo
- Start date
Help Support :
Have you washed the lint filter? Both dryer sheets and liquid fabric softener can cause a waxy build up to form on the lint filter and clog it. The wax is very very fine and almost impossible to see. The only real way to test it is to run water over it from the faucet. If it drops right through, then that's not the problem, if it pools or only trickles through, you need to scrub the filter with dish soap, hot water, and a soft brush.
The filter does LOOK clean but feels sticky--it seems difficult to remove the lint from the screen. I'll try your suggestion--THANKS!
All airways have been taken apart and cleaned, no obstructio
How far did you take it apart?
In my '81 Kenmore, I find that LOTS of lint likes to collect in that baffle area in front of the blower wheel. There was so much build up there that it was causing the high limit thermo to quickly trip. If one uses typical fabric softeners and dryer sheets, this occurs much more often.
How far did you take it apart?
In my '81 Kenmore, I find that LOTS of lint likes to collect in that baffle area in front of the blower wheel. There was so much build up there that it was causing the high limit thermo to quickly trip. If one uses typical fabric softeners and dryer sheets, this occurs much more often.
I did take that baffle off. Lots of crud down in the bottom of it, even a few coins.
whirlcool
Well-known member
I cleaned out a few dryers in the past year and in that duct that goes from the lint filter to the duct I have found it clogged so hard I needed to use a screwdriver to take the stuff out. I then washed in duct out with hot water & dish detergent to get rid of all the sticky feel of the duct. And don't forget to look in the duct under the lint filter slot. Lint likes to stay in there too.
Also take the blower motor out and look in the duct behind it. You'll find more lint in there, usually a considerable amount. Don't forget to vacuum the entire interior of the dryer. That light coating of dust on the motor, heater coils also affects the performance of your dryer. A Whirlpool Dryer should do a load of towels in about 45 minutes.
Also don't forget to wipe off the silver sensors in the dryer with Vinegar and rinse with a water logged towel finally drying the moisture sensor strips completely. This should cover it all for you.
Also take the blower motor out and look in the duct behind it. You'll find more lint in there, usually a considerable amount. Don't forget to vacuum the entire interior of the dryer. That light coating of dust on the motor, heater coils also affects the performance of your dryer. A Whirlpool Dryer should do a load of towels in about 45 minutes.
Also don't forget to wipe off the silver sensors in the dryer with Vinegar and rinse with a water logged towel finally drying the moisture sensor strips completely. This should cover it all for you.
limitededition
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2010
- Messages
- 62
heating element
Some highend Kenmore Kitchenaid dryers had dual element heating elements sounds like yours is operating on only one half of the element. Check for three terminals on the element. If not remove element and check to see if element is broken shorted etc. Older GE dual element dryers often only operated on half power due to the fact that one element broke, this greatly increased drying time.
Some highend Kenmore Kitchenaid dryers had dual element heating elements sounds like yours is operating on only one half of the element. Check for three terminals on the element. If not remove element and check to see if element is broken shorted etc. Older GE dual element dryers often only operated on half power due to the fact that one element broke, this greatly increased drying time.
whirlcool
Well-known member
That's a good idea. If you have an electrical meter tester just run a continuity test on each of the coils. If one side doesn't have continuity, that's the bad one. And sometimes the heating coils can look fine, but still not have any continuity.
Thanks for the tips. I'll try these and see how it goes
vacman1961
Well-known member
Make sure the element is not broken inside and is grounding out on the housing causing only part of the element to heat.
Slow KA Electric Dryer
This dryer only has a single coil element, but as others have suggested it could be broken and grounded to the frame or element housing.
This dryer only has a single coil element, but as others have suggested it could be broken and grounded to the frame or element housing.
All fixed and drying nicely now. Thanks for the tips and advice. It was the heating element.
OK, resurrecting this ancient thread with another question. Dryer has worked fine since the above repair but now heats during the air only setting and during the cool down phase of auto dry cycle. The heating element cycles on/off but never stays off for cool down. I've checked and even replaced the heating element as has been suggested, no change. Could this be a timer issue, control board, or???
Any advice appreciated.
Sam
Any advice appreciated.
Sam
Always Heating KA Electric Dryer
Hi Sam, Did you replace the heater again ? Otherwise it is a bad timer. A full model # would help.
John L.
Hi Sam, Did you replace the heater again ? Otherwise it is a bad timer. A full model # would help.
John L.
Thanks, John. I did replace the heater, just to make sure.
Full model # is KEYS850GQ0
Your help is always appreciated. I think I'd rather buy a timer than a control board!
Sam
Full model # is KEYS850GQ0
Your help is always appreciated. I think I'd rather buy a timer than a control board!
Sam
If you have a multimeter I would test the element. It sounds like it is grounded out.
Timer Pt#
Is WP3976570, it is still available but it is around $150 for a new one.
John L.
Is WP3976570, it is still available but it is around $150 for a new one.
John L.
WP3976570
Shop the P/N. I found sources for $95 and $97, and $104 with free shipping.
Shop the P/N. I found sources for $95 and $97, and $104 with free shipping.
Thanks, guys. It was the timer. Found a (supposedly) rebuilt one, put it in and all is good. I opened up the old one when I got it out, found 2 contacts welded together.
Your advice and support is always appreciated.
Sam
Your advice and support is always appreciated.
Sam
