Greetings. I'm the original owner/selector of Kitchenaid KUDS230xxx dishwasher installed in our then new home Spring 1993. It continues to serve us well. But, my second lower rack (WP part) is just now showing rust on one or two nibs. Our second upper rack (again, WP part w/o china guard & w/plastic upper arm) is showing heavy signs of rust in right rear corner. Other than a set of racks years ago, I've only had to replace the control/cycle switch module and "adjust" the bi-metal dispenser switches.
The dispensers still open properly each load.
However, for the past few weeks I've noticed that at the end of most loads there remains a small portion of the detergent in a cooked hard clump in the main wash side (never the Pre-wash side) even though both covers are open at cycle end.
Q. Any thoughts/suggestions for diagnosis?
Q. Do I even need to "close" the covers?
Background Info:
- We've used Bubble Bandit detergent for a year now (dishes getting cleaner & white scum totally gone off spray arms and nooks/crannies. Took me a while to realize our powdered Cascade formula had been tampered with by federal regulations. Machine was spotless & dull-free until about 2011/13 or so when dishes weren't getting as clean and I learned about the phosphate debacle.
- I'm looking at local cream-puff KDS-18 and possibly a 21 or 22 on craigslist both $65 or under primarily for their racks.
- I've learned on this forum the 18 upper rack has a shorter washarm.
- I've looked again at Hobart commercial and Miele professional machines but would prefer not to spend $5000 or more though I am able and it would be "fun" and add to my tool collection.
- I've not yet studied much on the epoxy coatings/paints etc to fix the rack issues.
- I don't yet know how to "test" for a worn wash arm support for my 23 model? (Maybe not enough water throughput through upper facing nozzles to clean out the dispenser?
- I've not yet tested by running a load with "open" dispenser covers.
- lately I've been doing thorough pre rinsing (practically spotless). Tell me more about my gleaning from some comments about "too" much detergent vs not enough organic/food materials resulting in rack destruction.
Thank you all in advance.
I would also be interested in comments long term about moving to a commercial machine pros/cons and suggestions for a new vs used approach both Miele and Hobart. I'd prefer not to run 240 circuit to the dishwasher but could make it happen.
Robert P.
Tulsa, OK area.
The dispensers still open properly each load.
However, for the past few weeks I've noticed that at the end of most loads there remains a small portion of the detergent in a cooked hard clump in the main wash side (never the Pre-wash side) even though both covers are open at cycle end.
Q. Any thoughts/suggestions for diagnosis?
Q. Do I even need to "close" the covers?
Background Info:
- We've used Bubble Bandit detergent for a year now (dishes getting cleaner & white scum totally gone off spray arms and nooks/crannies. Took me a while to realize our powdered Cascade formula had been tampered with by federal regulations. Machine was spotless & dull-free until about 2011/13 or so when dishes weren't getting as clean and I learned about the phosphate debacle.
- I'm looking at local cream-puff KDS-18 and possibly a 21 or 22 on craigslist both $65 or under primarily for their racks.
- I've learned on this forum the 18 upper rack has a shorter washarm.
- I've looked again at Hobart commercial and Miele professional machines but would prefer not to spend $5000 or more though I am able and it would be "fun" and add to my tool collection.
- I've not yet studied much on the epoxy coatings/paints etc to fix the rack issues.
- I don't yet know how to "test" for a worn wash arm support for my 23 model? (Maybe not enough water throughput through upper facing nozzles to clean out the dispenser?
- I've not yet tested by running a load with "open" dispenser covers.
- lately I've been doing thorough pre rinsing (practically spotless). Tell me more about my gleaning from some comments about "too" much detergent vs not enough organic/food materials resulting in rack destruction.
Thank you all in advance.
I would also be interested in comments long term about moving to a commercial machine pros/cons and suggestions for a new vs used approach both Miele and Hobart. I'd prefer not to run 240 circuit to the dishwasher but could make it happen.
Robert P.
Tulsa, OK area.