It's not a good idea to let the machine fill as a matter of normal routine to the point that the float is what shuts off the water. Some leaking can occur under some conditions.
KUDS230 -- detergent clumps remaining in Main wash dispenser
- Thread starter rlpenny
- Start date
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It's not a good idea to let the machine fill as a matter of normal routine to the point that the float is what shuts off the water. Some leaking can occur under some conditions.
Don't use the float to stop the fill
I agree, but it's possible (with restrictor removed or drilled out) to find the sweet spot where the tub fills enough during the timed sequence to provide good performance, but not enough that the float is what stops the fill.
It's easy enough to figure out just by pushing down on the float and listening for the click from down below.
IIRC, on my ISE I'd sometimes hear the clicking of the float switch during wash/rinse cycles as the water was churning even though I wasn't relying on the float to stop the fill.
I agree, but it's possible (with restrictor removed or drilled out) to find the sweet spot where the tub fills enough during the timed sequence to provide good performance, but not enough that the float is what stops the fill.
It's easy enough to figure out just by pushing down on the float and listening for the click from down below.
IIRC, on my ISE I'd sometimes hear the clicking of the float switch during wash/rinse cycles as the water was churning even though I wasn't relying on the float to stop the fill.
Field Report 3
YESTERDAY (12/16)...
--> Existing 2yr old inlet valve -- DW not filling enough, cutoff by timer, no floating bobber, arms rotate very slow.
--> New OEM (WP) valve (no mods) -- DW filled more, cutoff by timer, float just thinking about floating, arms rotate faster, minimized pump cavitation pulsing sound.
TODAY (12/17)...
** Old valve w/o restrictor nozzle -- DW fills to float limit in about ~35 seconds. Fills w/an authoritative sound (water shoots clear across the DW). DW ran VERY well; lower arm rotates a good 1/3 rotation upon door open.
** New OEM valve w/enlarged rubber restrictor plate (while folded in half nicked it w/toe-nail clippers) -- DW fills to float limit in ~39 seconds. NOTE: I think I didn't fully reinsert enlarged rubber orifice plate into an inner chamber of the new valve. IMO the nicked area I removed from rubber orifice shouldn't have incresed the flow rate that much over the unmodified plate described the other day.
TOMORROW's (12/18) plans...
>>> New OEM valve, move enlarged rubber orifice from the "first" chamber to the "inner" chamber of the valve body. It is hard to describe but the OEM valve has two chambers in a common cylinder. I'm thinking the upper or first chamber is so loose the rubber plate might be sideways or folded so as to not properly restrict the flow (further testing needed) ---
>>> Old valve w/drilled restrictor nozzle ---
>>> New OEM valve w/new stainless steel washer (can more easily control orifice on drill press). Hard to precisely enlarge a hole in a rubber washer.
Like others have recently said, I too would prefer to "dial-in" the fill such that the timer is the controlling water shutuff device.
YESTERDAY (12/16)...
--> Existing 2yr old inlet valve -- DW not filling enough, cutoff by timer, no floating bobber, arms rotate very slow.
--> New OEM (WP) valve (no mods) -- DW filled more, cutoff by timer, float just thinking about floating, arms rotate faster, minimized pump cavitation pulsing sound.
TODAY (12/17)...
** Old valve w/o restrictor nozzle -- DW fills to float limit in about ~35 seconds. Fills w/an authoritative sound (water shoots clear across the DW). DW ran VERY well; lower arm rotates a good 1/3 rotation upon door open.
** New OEM valve w/enlarged rubber restrictor plate (while folded in half nicked it w/toe-nail clippers) -- DW fills to float limit in ~39 seconds. NOTE: I think I didn't fully reinsert enlarged rubber orifice plate into an inner chamber of the new valve. IMO the nicked area I removed from rubber orifice shouldn't have incresed the flow rate that much over the unmodified plate described the other day.
TOMORROW's (12/18) plans...
>>> New OEM valve, move enlarged rubber orifice from the "first" chamber to the "inner" chamber of the valve body. It is hard to describe but the OEM valve has two chambers in a common cylinder. I'm thinking the upper or first chamber is so loose the rubber plate might be sideways or folded so as to not properly restrict the flow (further testing needed) ---
>>> Old valve w/drilled restrictor nozzle ---
>>> New OEM valve w/new stainless steel washer (can more easily control orifice on drill press). Hard to precisely enlarge a hole in a rubber washer.
Like others have recently said, I too would prefer to "dial-in" the fill such that the timer is the controlling water shutuff device.
You're making good progress. I feel nothing but confidence in your ability to "dial down" the water flow just enough to keep the fill timer relevant.
little miffed this evening...not fill, but panel related...
Opened up the SS panel set I ordered. Only came with the upper panel. No lower panel was in the box. Grrrrr. I had used a part number gleaned from a post on this site (the fellow that convereted his KD-21 from white to SS.
Opened up the SS panel set I ordered. Only came with the upper panel. No lower panel was in the box. Grrrrr. I had used a part number gleaned from a post on this site (the fellow that convereted his KD-21 from white to SS.
That's bogus. The panels always come in a set, I'm pretty sure. I ordered my SS panels from Sears and received both.
dustin92
Well-known member
I don't have any advice on the fill issues, but your issues with the racks rusting are directly caused by your pre rinsing of the dishes. The dishes are going in clean, so the detergent has basically nothing to act on, therefore, it eats the coating off of the racks. That dishwasher should be more than capable of cleaning soiled dishes, so just scrape any leftovers off, then move on and load them into the dishwasher with no rinsing. I tend to soak anything that has been cooked/burned on, but with little to no scrubbing, then run it through the machine. And no, putting dirty or greasy dishes in the dishwasher won't make the whole load greasy, and won't splatter the food all over the dishes. Actually, the manual to our Maytag states in a couple of places "DO NOT pre rinse dishes" Good luck with your repair and hope this helps!
Than you all again. My wife looks forward to going back to minimalist scrape and load. The detergent debacle combined with a slow fill (likely commenced Jan'13 w/valve replacement) I suppose drove me from a light rinse of shredded wheat bowls and nacho cheese to full-on fully rinsed of late. Will post next observations after the "dial-in" and of course, a final post of results after several loads of light scrape-n-load.
The lack of organic material for the detergent to work on or act upon, thus, it works over my racks, seems logical to me.
I'll also be ordering up some ReRack. I've still got some time before I lose sections of rack.
The lack of organic material for the detergent to work on or act upon, thus, it works over my racks, seems logical to me.
I'll also be ordering up some ReRack. I've still got some time before I lose sections of rack.
SS Panels
<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I have bought two sets of these and both sets came with both panels. How was it advertised? Did you buy them on eBay? I bought part B-241677 both times.</span>
<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I have bought two sets of these and both sets came with both panels. How was it advertised? Did you buy them on eBay? I bought part B-241677 both times.</span>
I ordered Part 4169400 -- factory sealed Whirlpool box
I ordered Whirlpool part number 4169400 from an online appliance parts website based in Oregon that came up in search results and had a good price. The box has a factory looking Whirlpool certified parts label and appears to have been drop shipped from the W L May Company out of WA. I've left a message with the selling entity and am awaiting their response. Was probably factory mixup. I have a sealed but empty bag of Guy's Potato Chips from the mid 1980s and a couple other packaging snafus. The panel snafu won't be added to my tiny collection.
I ordered Whirlpool part number 4169400 from an online appliance parts website based in Oregon that came up in search results and had a good price. The box has a factory looking Whirlpool certified parts label and appears to have been drop shipped from the W L May Company out of WA. I've left a message with the selling entity and am awaiting their response. Was probably factory mixup. I have a sealed but empty bag of Guy's Potato Chips from the mid 1980s and a couple other packaging snafus. The panel snafu won't be added to my tiny collection.
Besides eating away at the plastisol coating on the racks, another result of pre-rinsing can be etching on/clouding of glassware.
Feed your Bubble Bandit, and keep an eye out for cheap machines on craigslist that have good racks you can harvest from them. The Re-Rack will buy you plenty of time.
Feed your Bubble Bandit, and keep an eye out for cheap machines on craigslist that have good racks you can harvest from them. The Re-Rack will buy you plenty of time.
