Hey Jed,
What's the latest on your project? Any progress?
Gordon
What's the latest on your project? Any progress?
Gordon
Lady Kenmore Transmission Help
- Thread starter lebron
- Start date
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bendixmark
Well-known member
no spin
I used to run into this problem all the time years ago.When I install the transmission and basket drive,with the machine laying down I would install the bolts five turns then stand the machine up and give the bolts three turns each going in a circle until they are tight keeping in mind the two bolts without the spacer do most of the carrying up of the transmission.Once the transmission is bolted in I would lay the machine back down and manually engage the transmission into spin by pushing up the spin solenoid plunger and turning the transmission pulley until the spin cambar is fully extended.With this done I would pull down on the basket drive pulley.The brake drum should drop down away from the bottom of the basepate about an eighteenth of an inch.The basket drive should now turn freely by hand and and you should be able to turn the upper brake lining on the brakedrum easily with your fingernail.There is no reason the bronze bearing and platform on there now shouldnt work.It is actually a more solid system than the t-bearing and ball.If the basket drive doesnt turn now then you have a misalignment still.loosen the bolts again with the machine standing up and retighten one turn at a time this time.The only other thing that might cause this would be if the setscrew in the brakedrum has broken or backed out slightly,this will cause the brake drum to drag on the baseplate all the time.The big nut on the clutch shaft is to adjust the height of the three drive pads above the spinning basketdrive pulley.This should be about a sixteenth of an inch or just enough so they arent touching.Before all this I would thoroughly clean that shaft with wd40 and the bearings as well then apply a small amount of turbine oil to the centerost bearings.I would also replace the top centerpost bearing seal which was also suggested not to steal anyones thunder.If possible I would replace that basket drive with the newer version with the round clutchplate,not only that I would use the one with the green springs as that has way more grab to take off.Hope that helps.Somebody said they saw Bob Dylan this weekend I saw the Doobie Brothers top that!
I used to run into this problem all the time years ago.When I install the transmission and basket drive,with the machine laying down I would install the bolts five turns then stand the machine up and give the bolts three turns each going in a circle until they are tight keeping in mind the two bolts without the spacer do most of the carrying up of the transmission.Once the transmission is bolted in I would lay the machine back down and manually engage the transmission into spin by pushing up the spin solenoid plunger and turning the transmission pulley until the spin cambar is fully extended.With this done I would pull down on the basket drive pulley.The brake drum should drop down away from the bottom of the basepate about an eighteenth of an inch.The basket drive should now turn freely by hand and and you should be able to turn the upper brake lining on the brakedrum easily with your fingernail.There is no reason the bronze bearing and platform on there now shouldnt work.It is actually a more solid system than the t-bearing and ball.If the basket drive doesnt turn now then you have a misalignment still.loosen the bolts again with the machine standing up and retighten one turn at a time this time.The only other thing that might cause this would be if the setscrew in the brakedrum has broken or backed out slightly,this will cause the brake drum to drag on the baseplate all the time.The big nut on the clutch shaft is to adjust the height of the three drive pads above the spinning basketdrive pulley.This should be about a sixteenth of an inch or just enough so they arent touching.Before all this I would thoroughly clean that shaft with wd40 and the bearings as well then apply a small amount of turbine oil to the centerost bearings.I would also replace the top centerpost bearing seal which was also suggested not to steal anyones thunder.If possible I would replace that basket drive with the newer version with the round clutchplate,not only that I would use the one with the green springs as that has way more grab to take off.Hope that helps.Somebody said they saw Bob Dylan this weekend I saw the Doobie Brothers top that!
Mark -
I haven't heard from Jed in the last couple days, but we took the discussion off-line as you can see above.
Turns out the culprit was the T-bearing retaining collar, which was stuck on the agitator shaft about 5 milimeters above its normal position (even without the set screw), thus the whole drive was being forced to sit too high by the same distance.
We discussed cleaning and lubing the spin tube, bearings, etc. I don't know what the final result is or was.
Gordon
I haven't heard from Jed in the last couple days, but we took the discussion off-line as you can see above.
Turns out the culprit was the T-bearing retaining collar, which was stuck on the agitator shaft about 5 milimeters above its normal position (even without the set screw), thus the whole drive was being forced to sit too high by the same distance.
We discussed cleaning and lubing the spin tube, bearings, etc. I don't know what the final result is or was.
Gordon
bendixmark
Well-known member
collar stuck
Heat it with a torch.
Heat it with a torch.
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