Latest Gadget

[sudsmaster]

Well, tonight I picked up a new gadget at Home Depot, something I've had my eye on for a couple years now. Well, last night I saw that the price had dropped about $80 so I decided to get one.

It's a Rigid table saw, model TS3650. Probably the sturdiest table saw with a wheeled stand that you can get (or so I gather from reviews). I have a lot of lumber to cut for a backyard project, long lengths, so I wanted something sturdy and bulletproof. Also something on wheels that I can move out into the courtyard so I have room to rip 16 foot long 2x4's.

It's still in the box at this point. Probably will get around to unboxing it and assembling it this weekend.

 

[tolivac]

That Rigid appears to be a rather nice contractor style table saw-lots of luck with it!esp for 80 bucks off-figure you can't miss for that price!!a bargain!Maybe I should check out my HD-maybe Shopsmith needs a freind!Remember when Rigid only made plumbers tools-not tools for carpentry.At a tool repair shop fixed a few of the "plumbers Lathes"Pipe cutting-threading machines.

 

[sudsmaster]

From my research I gather that this Rigid is as close as one can get to a cabinet saw while still retaining portablity with the retracting "Herculift" wheel set. It's got a cast iron table and (I think) a belt type motor (quieter than direct drive). Also I think it can be wired for 220 volt operation (which I might do).

 

[tolivac]

The discussion of the ISE disposers is distant to Rigid tools-they are also owned by the emerson-skil group.ISE is in the group too.Bet your Rigid saw has an Emerson motor.If its like the usual contractor table saw-they have 1.5hp motors-when run on 120V the motor draws 15A esp under load-such as ripping those 2X4's.At 220V will need only 7.5A.You need to install the 220V outlet close to the area where you use the saw.Remember converting my Moms Sears Craftsman radial saw(Yes its a Rigid-emerson tool in disguise)to 220V.change the wires in the motor junction box-replace the 120V plug and it was in business.no more breaker tripping during rip cuts.A 220V 15A outlet works good for these types of machines.

 

[frigilux]

Very nice, Rich---but where do the clothes go in?!

 

[panthera]

Belt drive is a dream

I did a fair amount of work on my dad's belt drive table saw last winter. Gosh, I never realized what a difference it makes.
Probably matters more for someone like me who doesn't do all that much work all that often than for an expert.
Don't want to start the phase wars again, but there's another advantage to 220V...not only do the amps get halved, but if you are forced to use extension cords, the wires can be a lot thinner.

 

[sudsmaster]

It's got a 1.5 HP sealed induction motor. That is, the motor is fan-cooled but sealed at the same time. Must be some sort of heat exchanger involved.

Not exactly sure if it's a belt drive unit or not. Probably is. It's been a year or two since I researched the thing. Just knew it was the model I wanted.

Not sure if I'll convert it over to 220 or not. I do have that big 220 extention reel, but will need to make an adapter to go from std 50 amp range outlet to 30 amp twist lock plug, which is what the majority of 220 outlets in the shop are. Will also have to see if the thing requires a four wire 220 hookup. On an all metal saw that would probably be a good idea.

 

[tolivac]

In the TEFC motors-no heat exchangers-the motor is sealed to keep out the dust and sawdust.The fan on the back of the motor blows air over the motors body to cool it.Some of these have fins on them to help dissapate the heat.Most contractor saws are belt driven-the belt is under guards so as to meet OSHA-ANSI safety regulations if the machine were to be used on a jobsite.Yes-besides hobbyists,contractors buy these machines for use on a job.The belt drives from induction motors can run smoother and quieter than geared universal motor drives(Like a portable handsaw)but can make smoother cuts due to less vibration.and of course for table saw use the induction motor is more durable and less liable to overheat from long rip cuts.On some jobsites the universal motor is more generator and temporary power pole "freindly" due to less start current and run current draw.That is why some contractors use the portable table saws that have the universal geared DD motors.they don't care about smoothness or precision cuts when framing a house.The real cool BD saws are the old design Delta Unisaws-triple belt drive from a 3-5Hp 220V 3ph motor.These run so smooth quiet and precise-you could almost split a hair with one of those.Used Unisaws a lot in school shop classes.They are a favorite in school shops and small furniture and millwork shops.Legendary tools-but expensive-some dedicated hobbyists have these as the star tool in their shops.We have a newer one at the workplace where I currently work-yes a table saw at a SW transmitter site!

 

[sudsmaster]

Yes, the Ryobi motor is a belt drive unit. I unpacked the saw today and started assembling it.

I'm afraid I can't see why a contractor would want to lug this 300 lb table saw to a job site. It's quite heavy, not what I would call portable. But I suppose for fancy woodwork/built-in cabinets it would come in handy.

 

[tolivac]

With the Rigids wheeled base should be pretty easy to roll the saw aboard the contractors truck or van.The amount of table saws and radial saws taken to job sites has gone down-but still see a few at worksites.With the advent of the chop and slide type miter saws,these pretty much replaced radial saws-which were more of a safety hazard.now-remodeling contractors like table saws-and handymen that you can hire to do jobs at your home like them too.WOW-the machine has a Ryobi motor? interesting.How much assembly do you have to do?The last time I assembled a table saw was for a school shop-(cabinet model-Powermatic)Came in a wooden crate-after opening the crate-you had to assemble the rip fence rails to the machine and attach the rip fence.Otherwise it was already assembled.Nothing like having the students assemble the tools they are about to use!Was a good learning experience though.Learned about base and table alignment-even after shipping and handling-that Powermatics table was in perfect alignment.And if you have to move a table saw-NEVER apply pressure to the rip fence rails or table-yes those are convenient to grab onto-but they can be thrown out of alignment-instead reach under the table and push on the cabinet or base.Same with radial arm saws-again don't move these by their tables.I can't remember how many I have aligned at the tool repair from folks using the tables and rails as handles.

 

[sudsmaster]

Ryobi Motor?

Sorry, that was a mental typo. I was thinking "Ridgid motor" and typed "Ryobi motor". Both are pretty much Home Depot exclusive house brands, though. The motor itself doesn't have a brand name. Model TH1000085, made in Taiwan (as is the saw). As far as I know it's a Ridgid motor - Ryobi having nothing to do with it.

Assembly - a fair amount. The center of the table and the base comes pre-assembled. Have to attach the legs, braces, Herculift, motor, wings, dials, rails.

Thanks for the advice about where to push on the saw to move it. I'll try to keep that in mind - might have to eject some old gas stoves and maybe even a dryer or two from the workshop to make room for this saw so I don't bump into the rails every time I walk by.

I wouldn't want to try single manhandling this 300 lb saw aboard a pickup truck, even with a good ramp. Two guys probably could handle it ok, though. Three might be able to lift it on board ;-). With the cast iron table it's also fairly top heavy, so it would have to be strapped down to the bed as well.

 

[tolivac]

Thats interesting the machine is made in Taiwan.thought rigid made their tools here.Looks like you have more assembly to do than I did with the PowerMatic-At that time the Powermatic was made in a factory in Tennessee.It was a nice little saw-cabinet model.Sounds like the table is assembled to the base on your unit-thus to keep alignment.You will know it if the table is out-you will get burning and binding during rip cuts.That is one of the synptoms.One contractor that lives up the street from me has a table saw and he loads it onto a trailer that he takes to a jobsite-He takes all kinds of materials and tools on the trailer.

 

[sudsmaster]

As I understand it, Ridgid has made these saws in Taiwan for a number of years.

I remember when they were a plumbing tool company... back in the 80's someone brought into work a "Ridgid Tool Calendar" featuring scantily clad young women holding gigantic monkey wrenches in suggestive poses. It was a big hit until the PC police got wind of it, lol.

 

[tolivac]

Oh yes-remember those rigid calenders-used to have those at the tool repair place-they also sold Rigid plumbers tools then.Supposedly you got the calender free if you bought A rigid tool at that time-yes was in the 80's.At the place where I work they have a Rigid pipe machine and some of those giant pipe wrenches.even have had to use them on the transmitter water plumbing.Rigid also made a handheld portable pipe machine-it seemed like electrical contractors loved those.The tool could cut and thread pipes.also another company that made plumbing and electrcal machines and tools was Greenlee.nice equipment.Have their large sheet metal and chassis punches at my workplace.

 

[sudsmaster]

Well, after having to take a break from the assembly, got back to it tonite. Saturday I attached the leg stand to the inverted table. Tonite I tightened all those bolts, attached the cast iron table extensions, and then very gingerly righted the table saw (using wood blocks to gradually ease it up - leverage, it's your ally against gravity). Then I aligned the extensions (not metal machining perfect but probably just fine for wood working). Then I assembled the "Hercu-Lift" caster assembly and attached that to the bottom of the legs. That was a bit of a head scratcher, but finally got it on and working. It's kind of cool, actually.

 

[sudsmaster]

Right side up with Hercu-Lift installed.

Remaining is attaching the motor, and the rails/guards/handwheels/etc... Almost done!

 

[sudsmaster]

Power up!

Last night I got the fences installed and aligned, blade guard/separator installed and aligned, motor installed and positioned.

Shut off everything else on the circuit and fired it up - briefly - at 11 pm. Very nice - quiet. It did dim the lights on startup (well, it's a 13 amp motor on 110), but I was impressed with the smoothness and quiet. There's a little bit of a rattle down below, which I'll investigate later - might just be the way the plastic dust collector behaves normally. We'll see if the circuit can handle both the saw and the requisite shop vac to collect the saw dust running at the same time...

Only one problem - I have it assembled in the carport, and with the motor hanging out the back it probably won't fit through a standard people door to get it into the big workshop. But there is a big swinging garage door I can access (after moving around some stuff). Meanwhile I'm thinking that the best place for the saw would be in another garage, with easier access. It's also where the woodworking bench is set up, so more appropriate anyway. And if need be, pulling the motor isn't a major task so stashing the saw in the main shop is still do-able.

 

[tolivac]

Congradulations--sounds like success!Glad your new saw works.Now its time to make some sawdust after the machine has been moved to its final place.You will have to run your shop vac dust collector on a separate circuit-otherwise you will trip the breaker if the saw and vacuum are on the same branch line.This happens when I use the Shopsmith.Fortunateely the Vacuum cord is long enough to find another outlet.Enjoy your new tablesaw!

 

[sudsmaster]

Good point about the circuits. One argument, I suppose, in favor of converting the motor over to 220. Might just make up my own extension cord for that (the big reel is a bit cumbersome).

My initial project likely will be with the saw set up in the courtyard. Have to rip a bunch of 16 ft. 2x4"s, which will end up taking up at least 32 feet. The shop is longer than that, but would have to clear out quite a bit of stuff to get a clear path. Probably would be easier in the courtyard. In any case, I can access 110 volt outlets from two different circuits out there, so should be able to run the vac on one and the saw on the other.

Still have to clean the shipping grease off the table and give it a coat of wax. The manual didn't say what kind of wax, so I'm assuming a good car wax would do. If not, I have a good beeswax based furniture polish that might be good as well.