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[sudsmaster]

The hand filing of the edges turned out to be the easiest thing I did today.

Gathering up the old reed fencing (used as the "roofing", and cutting it up to fit into the green waste took time. Gathering up the stainless steel sheet metal strips that held down the fencing on the "roof" and putting them into a rack took time. Splitting about six 12 foot 2x4's took time, but didn't present any problem, other than big knots turning a couple of them into six foot 2x2's.

I was more than a little stiff after yesterday's tear-off of the old "roofing". Actually fastening the 2x2's to the stringers turned out to take longer than I anticipated. After a while I got the speed up but only got about 1/10th of the 2x2's up there. Did some counting of remaining lumber and realized I'll need to go back to the Depot or Lowe's and pick up another few hundred bucks' worth of 16 ft heart redwood 2x4's. They ain't cheap! And it can be difficult to find clear heartwood lumber without big knots that make the 2x2's fall apart. Maybe with the housing slump, however, the pickings will be better at the Depot.

The little I managed to get up there today looks pretty good, though. I think it will be nice to sit under, and it will also be nice to have something more permanent up there that I won't have to renew every five years, and something that will be safer to navigate as needed. Plus, the reed fencing shed a lot of cellulosic dust and that problem will be gone, too.

I got to use one of the forstner bits, though. There are carriage bolts holding the stringers to metal support colums/beams. They tend to stick up a bit, so I used a small forstner bit (on a hand drill, worked fine) to create a little flat bottom hole for the bolt head to sit under.

 

[sudsmaster]

They don't grow them like they used to...

Well, it's like this: I cruised by the local HOme Depot after work and saw they had a new pallet of 16 ft heart redwood 2x4's stashed up high. I came back later with my pickup and got the help to forklift the new pallet down on top of the rejects in the rack. As much as I could paw through the new stack, I got a grand total of seven pieces that I thought had the fewest knots to be structurally sound when split into 2x2's. I needed 15. And when I got home and unloaded the lumber, I noticed that one piece had a big scallop taken out of one side, so it will have to go back. And this stuff isn't cheap: each 16 ft piece costs $20.

I also needed some 12 ft pieces but couldn't find any that were acceptable, and I wasn't going to ask the staff to bring down a new pallet of those as well.

I'll be visiting a local lumber yard tomorrow to see if they have anything of better quality at a reasonable price. If that fails, there's always Lowe's.

 

[tolivac]

I can agree-scragglely lumber is a problem these days-lumber providers are being forced to use trees that would have been rejected in past times.since the demand for wood has gone upthey are forced to use the reject trees rather than wait for other trees to mature.Weyerhauser has tree farms all around the site where I work.Now they cut and chip the trees-than the chips and shreds go to a mill out near New Bern.Goes into fiberboard and paper.the trees out here aren't used for lumber anymore-they don't want to wait for the trees to grow enough for lumber.Its interesting to see the operations-in the areas where the trees have been cut-plantings are put there and allowed to grow.the tree farms also provide good hunting grounds for deer hunters in the fall.The deer like the larger trees for cover and the plantings for food.

 

[sudsmaster]

Hmm. I called the local lumber yard to see if they have better grade redwood. They sure do... clear, free of knots. Only $3.20/ft. That works out to about $55 for a 16 ft piece. I guess I'll be returning to Home Depot/Lowes to cherry pick out the most knot-free pieces for this project. $20/stick is bad enough... $55 each (need a total of about 40) and I might as well put a real roof over the pond!

Some smallish knots won't be a problem... I don't plan on walking up there much, just to maintain it from time to time. And while beautifully clear wood will look better, a few knots won't disturb the fish ;-).

I think it was easier to find quality wood for a reasonable price a few years ago. I was hoping that the housing slump would have freed up supplies, which it might have, but the quality simply isn't there any more.

It briefly crossed my mind to use one of the new plastic composite types of deck lumber for this project - but they are nearly as expensive as clear redwood and don't have the structural strength.

 

[sudsmaster]

Found some heartwood 2x6x16 at a local Lowe's, for a reasonable price. Cut up a 12 footer yesterday after work, into thirds, and that might work out ok. Actually got 2 clear 2x2's out of it. But that was the least knot-ridden piece I could find in the pile. Probably will try to pick up some of the 16 foot 2x6's today. It will mean more cutting and some sanding to get the edges rounded, but I guess my time is cheaper than $50 planks.

Then I get to climb ladders and crawl around on top of the pond pergola installing the stuff.

Found another neat gadget at the Depot the other night. It's a magnetic feather board. Two very strong magnets hold the board to the cast iron table. They are activated by simple twists of two big knobs. After having to change the position of the wooden feather board twice to rip one 2x6 into thirds, I figure this gadget is well worth the cost ($40). No more awkward clamps to fuss with.

 

[tolivac]

Magnetic featherboard-GREAT-remember in the school shop when you had to make your own.A special plastic feather board came with one of my shopsmiths-fastens to the T-slot on the table-the shopsmith table is aluminum.Yes with other featherboards remember fussing with the clamps-and they could damage the saw table if not carefully used.Glad you found some better wood.Only thing I hate is the climb up on ladders to on the roof-getting too old for that-and HATE the idea of falling.Now I hire someone to do the ladder work on the house.Esp the roof.Really HATE roof work.

 

[drmitch]

Nice saw! Ive been using a small Delta since we bought this old house and I really miss my dads craftsman belt drive. Oh to have a nice clean shop full of new tools. I`m storing so much old wood that I can hardly get the door closed, and my radial aerm saw is sitting in the open carport. What kind of projects do you have going on? I like to see what other people create. : )

 

[sudsmaster]

Tolivac,

Well, a primary reason for this pond pergola project is that about four years ago I actually fell through the pergola into the pond below. About 8 feet. Luckily no damage other than a severly bruised inner thigh, and a stomach full of pond water. After that I decided the next time the "roofing" needed replacing (about every four years) I'd put in something more permanent, and something I could walk on safely.

I made some definite progress today. After spending an hour or so reinforcing one the of the extra beams I added to the structure (just sistered on another redwood 2x4), and filling in some odd gaps (nothing is really square on the pergola), got going on laying down the 2x2's and I have to say it looks kind of cool. I've got about 1/3 of them installed now, and have a certain rhythm and know how long it takes to position and fasten down each 2x2. Meanwhile the seagulls are getting curious so I'm motivated to finish the project to resume the camoflage of the pond from predating sea birds.

The magnetic feather board is cool. I had cause to use it a lot today, as I'm working on reducing 2x6 planks to 2x2 strips, which involves frequent repositioning of the feather board. I'd already made a feather board out of some nice used clear redwood 1x6 I found in the shop, but the magnetic one is a lot quicker to position.

I'd post some before and after photos but I'm so behind on this project I haven't wanted to take time to get the camera out and then deal with transfering the photos to the web. But maybe when it's all done I'll snap some shots.

Mitch,

If you read through the thread you'll see the project I'm currently working on. It's basically replacing some flimsy reed fencing laid horizontally on top of a pergola over a fish pond with redwood 2x2's. Because the pergola is about 16 feet wide, and 2x2's are not available in that length, I decided to purchase 2x4's, and then 2x6's, and rip them into halves or thirds and create my own 2x2's for the project. For that I figured I'd need a sturdy table saw that didn't try to walk or tip over during the ripping, hence the Ridgid purchase. I'm using redwood heartwood for the 2x2's because I don't want to paint or stain it as anything that would kill bugs/rot would probably also kill the fish below the pergola. I have another saw project in the hopper but for the life of me I can't recall what it is at the moment!

 

[sudsmaster]

Well I snapped some photos

Here's the miserable reed fencing that needed replacing every four or five years. It's a remnant:

 

[sudsmaster]

And here is the 2x2's waiting to be positioned and fastened in its place:

 

[sudsmaster]

A view from below

 

[sudsmaster]

View from above

 

[sudsmaster]

Looking straight down... near where I fell through four years ago. The nice part is that unlike the reed fencing, the 2x2's easily support my weight, so it's going to be a lot safer going up there and doing routine maintenance/repairs.

Plus, the spacing of the sticks surely will deter depredating cattle ;-)

 

[sudsmaster]

The Other Saw Project

Minor, but it would be cutting pergo-type floor laminate to redo the master bedroom floor. I figure the cuts will be more exact on a big table saw than with a hand-held skill saw.

 

[tolivac]

the computer I am using can't download some of your pictures-want to see.Just see the one of your 2x2's waiting to be fastened down.glad you will be able to use your saw for the flooring project.Table saws are great for floor jobs.i am assuming your saw came with a carbide blade-you will need that for sure since "engineered" flooring like pergo and others is VERY abrasive-it will dull steel blades quickly.For me I am heavy enough where I don't know if I want to climb on something that is 2X2's.2X4 no problem.

 

[sudsmaster]

Rex,

The saw came with a carbide blade, and that's generally the only kind I buy.

Sorry the photos are not all visible for you. I don't know what the problem could be - they were all shot with the same camera at the same resolution.

A big reason why I've been sort of picky about the quality of the lumber chosen is that I didn't want knots big enough to compromise what little strength the 2x2's have. And I have althernated 2x2's cut from the same piece of lumber, so the knots don't line up. I am careful not to jump around up there. It's not meant for regular walking, esp since the 2x2's are supported by 2x4's 30" OC, and the 2x4's are supported by steel I-beams about 7' OC. So it all kind of flexes as I walk on it, but not so badly that it might be a home on the shores of Lake Lacrimose. The only access is by step-ladder and I plan on keeping it that way to discourage human traffic up there. Fat raccoons and possums were in large part responsible for the short life of the previous reed covering; they shouldn't have much effect on the 2x2's, although I'd rather they didn't venture up there in the first place.

It could be a nice spot for sun-bathing but it's not worth the risk making that an option.

 

[tolivac]

I am wondering if its something to do with the computer network I am on.sometimes the picture threads on Applianceville and Vacuumland "lock up" the computer-I have to exit the internet and reenter to continue reading the threads.most pictures come thru just fine.
Wow-Raccoon and possums-interssting how they are out in the SF area.thought those critters were primarily in the southeast.Gots lots of em out here.Sometimes they are "victims" of the car on the way to work.Good to keep two legged "critters" off the top of your 2X2 roof.

 

[sudsmaster]

Raccoons are like large urban rats. They populate Manhattan, I understand, although perhaps not in the millions. They are also fairly in San Francisco, I'm told. But many people don't know they are there because the raccoon is nocturnal and relatively stealthy (except when they walk across the corrugated fiberglass sun panels that make up the roofing over several outdoor areas in the back yard). The lighter weight panels tend to buckle and snap back when a heavy raccoon or possum traverses it, setting off quite a racket. I don't mind the possums much, but the raccoons can be quite destructive - going after the pond fish and various fruits and veggies in the garden.

 

[sudsmaster]

Exhausted!

I'd like to say I finished off the pergola roof this weekend, but... it's HARD WORK!

My excuse is that this morning I had to return some lumber and get new lumber. Sorting through what the Depot has in search of the least knotty stuff takes time. I cut all I could on Saturday and spent the rest of today (after getting home with the loot) putting that stuff up there.

The good news is that the project is now about 2/3 finished. I'm confident I have enough good wood to finish it off. If not during the week after work (tricky) then surely next weekend. It's probably good exercise, as well.

I did some quick calculations today. By the end of this project I will have sorted, sawn, sanded, carried, drilled, and screwed down about 1400 feet of 2x2 lumber. I will have drilled over 600 holes and screwed over 600 deck screws in them.

I hope the raccoons appreciate it!

 

[sudsmaster]

BTW, Tolivac, I was looking at the "roof" and I don't think it's much weaker than a standard flat roof of a few decades ago. For example, the stringers on this pergola are 30" apart. On the roof of the main house, the rafters are 24" apart, and same size, 2x4's. Then on top of that there are spaced 1x4's with sizeable gaps, and on top of that, heavy cedar shake shingles. I figure the 2x2's have about the same effective strength as the 1x4's, and 30" is not that much more of a stretch than 24". Granted, the pitched roof thrusts a good part of the load downward to the walls, but it's a minimal pitch (4 in 12). Tying all the 2x2's together to the 2x4's below them with decking screws probably serves to distribute the load across multiple beams and helps to resist at least one person traverse.

One concern I have is the additional weight in the winter when the 2x2's get soaked by the rains. But then the cedar shake roof also absorbs a lot of water and it doesn't seem any worse for the wear (other than that it's about 35 years old now).

 

[sudsmaster]

Where DO you put the clothes in?

Where do you put the clothes in?
Well, I admit this whole thread is not particularly laundry related, until I recalled how some people wash rugs.

They take them out to the driveway and hose them down, maybe srub them with some carpet cleaner, rinse well, and then let them dry.

I *could* possible take a washed/rinsed/wet rug up on top of the fish pond and let it dry out there.

Kind of like a French rug laundry over koi, instead of over grass.

After a while I'd probably hose down the 2x2's first so they don't transfer accumulated grime and grit to the freshly laundered items.