Let's discuss wood stoves.

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

volvoguy87

Well-known member
Platinum Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
2,571
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I am considering installing a wood stove in my mechanical room so I can burn scrap pallets I can get for free from work to supliment my heating system. I know next to nothing about wood stoves and would like to change that before making any decisions.

At this point, I know there are cataylitic and non-cataylitic stoves. From what I've read, I'l leaning strongly toward cataylitic because of a more efficient combustion process and cleaner emissions (and a cleaner flue).

What insught might you have? Are some brands better than others? Any tips on installation and best use/maintenance practices?

Dave
 
You will have to do

due diligence, and see about Cincinnati's building code, and you will have to see about insurability. Due to the age of your house, you might not be able to have such a woodburner, even if the fireplaces pass, with inspection, as Tim said immediately above.

You might, might be able to, if installed professionally. Furthermore, will your rental units be heated this way? Tenants LIKE to be able to adjust their temperature, more so if they are paying for the heat......(as I should know!)-- It is his furnace, but MY gas bill!

Good luck.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
I love a wood burning stove and the ones with a catalyst are wonderful...You get it going and once that catalyst lights off you turn it way down and the smoke and soot inside that 1000F catalyst does most of the heating.Wood lasts over twice as long in my point of

view. You said something about burning wood scrap that is fine as long as the wood is not water treated,particle board,plywood,etc..The chemicals will ruin your catalyst and they are not cheap considering folks are stealing them now days.The wood has to be dry or the

catalyst won't light off it's neat seeing the catalyst glow cherry red and the heat they put out is unreal.The smoke and creosote is being

burned  and it's kinda odd thinking that but yea that's what goes on.Our farm has a Heat-Pump and a stove like that tied into the duct

work in the basement.I don't mess with much anymore unless it gets real cold..I load that thing up and watch it and make sure the catalyst is reaching the right temp then turn it down almost to the point of choking it off.. I would get the one with a catalyst

unless you plan on burning any type of treated wood cause that can ruin it...
 
The most important things with burning wood is having a safe chimney, preferably lined, and a regular cleaning schedule to prevent dangerous creosote build up. Also making sure proper clearances are maintained to anything combustible. It is not worth the risk to loose property or possibly life by not being more than careful. Many people in Maine use wood as a main source of heat and many of them do not use proper care and common sence and end up loosing everything, usually on a frigid winter night.
 
I'm not having a good evening! Tried to light my wood burning range for the first time since the spring and all the smoke went in the kitchen instead of up the chimney, I ended up pouring water on the fire to put it out. Left the outside door open to let the smoke out and now the house is full of mosquitoes. :o(
 
Chimney.

I wouldn't even consider burning so much as a scrap of paper in my house without lining the flue in question first. I've been around the block with old chimneys before and even if it is in good shape, there can still be hidden trouble spots. A nice stainless liner is a must.

As for tenants, each apartment has a furnace. The tenants control their own heat. The wood stove would only be there to supplement the heat in my apartment. Please note, however, that when I say "my apartment," I am not referring to a small space. My apartment consists of the basement and 1st floor of half of the building. The 1st floor consists of: my parlor, dining room, bedroom, kitchen, butler's pantry, bathroom, and huge closet. My basement consists of the man-cave/laundry room, the mechanical room, a closet, a hallway, and the ballroom. (I swing dance, so I can actually use a ballroom. It's not big by ballroom standards, but that's what it will be as soon as I put in the sprung floor.)

The wood I intend to burn is not manufactured wood, so no glues, water proofing, paint, or epoxies. It is also not pressure treated. I want to be able to load up the stove, get the catalyst going, and turn it way down so I won't have to keep adding wood. I'd want it to be able to burn all night. I'd also like it to be able to burn all day while I'm at work. I'll have my own furnace too, but if I can heat with free wood, why pay Duke Energy more than I need to?

Dave
 
Wow, sounds like your place is quite large. Yes, a stainless liner is the easiest, most cost effective way to go in an older chimney. New laws in Maine require that only one fuel of any kind burning appliance can be connected to any one chimney and it must be lined when a furnace is replaced or wood/coal stove installed. But chances of an oil or gas furnace is next to nothing to causing a chimney fire, its creosote. I had one chimney fire and it scared me enough that I put a propane woodstove in. No more wood heat for me.
 
"I'm not having a good evening..."

Sounds like there is a blockage in your chimney, Fido. Either the damper is shut or some animal has decided to take up residence there. Better have it cleaned by a chimney sweep.

For Volvoguy, I agree with the rest. Definitely get the existing chimney inspected and lined if you're going to use that. Or, install a new chimney designed for wood burning heaters.

I'm also not so thrilled with the idea of burning scrap wood/pallets. These may be soft wood that put out too much sap/creosote. It also might be contaminated by industrial chemicals/oils. Good seasoned hardwood firewood is more expensive but is so much nicer to work with. Then there are wood pellet burning furnaces that are clean and nearly automatic.

Here in the SF Bay Area we have periodic bans on burning wood/paper in fireplaces, during windless winter days/nights. It's actually a good thing, as it's eliminated the stinky scrap wood fires some of my neighbors were putting out before the ban.

My house has two fireplaces; I installed older, used inserts in both and use them only occasionally, usually on a cold rainy winter night when the danger of a roof fire is minimal, and the smoke is quickly dissipated. I didn't line the chimneys but I did have them inspected and cleaned beforehand. The usage is so minimal I think the risk is low. I also use a creosote cleaning product every winter. I also burn dry, seasoned, hardwood that burns cleaner than soft wood or scrap.
 
It's a mystery

I wish I could find a simple explanation like a birds nest but I can't find any blockage anywhere. This is the second time this has happened and I'm starting to think it must be weather related. I have dismantled the stove and its steel flue pipe and cleaned everything but there was nothing remotely blocked. I have checked the chimney and cleaned it a bit but again it seems fine. There is a small inspection door in the loft and I used a mirror to look up to the top and there are no birds nests. There is an official chimney sweep who I have to pay once a year whether the chimney needs sweeping or not. It was clean last year as I had not started using the stove but he can earn his fee this time. It's a bit windy today so I will have another go and see if it draws properly
 
It's a mystery

Hi,
Vermont Mike here. Burning a wood stove can be tricky... outside temp, downdraft ect..
I have two fireplaces and aa Tarm Wood Boiler, Jay and I heat with nothing but wood, The best way to get a chimney to draw is to heat it up a bit first to start the convection. Take some news paper and light it and put it in the stove to warm up the chimney, Then start with small wood (kindling) Get that burning then load the split wood. I hope this helps.
EASY Does It
Mike

 

Latest posts

Back
Top