Maypool Stainless Basket Removal

pulsator · Sep 15, 2018

I’ve got a Maytag direct drive (Leap) from 2007 that is in dire need of a good tub cleaning and a neutral drain kit. The problem is that I cannot for the life of me get the spanner nut to budge! I’ve tried penetrating oil, boiling water, and even a torch (I got it up to 400°!) and it still won’t budge. The slots are starting to get deformed and I’m afraid to go at it with the hammer much more. At this point, the seal between the basket drive and agi-shaft is toast and I know I will be replacing that. This spanner nut is stainless steel and not one I’ve seen before (since this is the first stainless basket unit I’ve had) and it seems to be NLA. I don’t really want to destroy it but I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to get it off any other way.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to remove it? If I have to cut it out, what the best way to approach that? I have a new drive block on hand but I absolutely cannot damage the basket. Any tips for using the normal cast spanner nut and preventing the galvanic corrosion?

Thanks for your input!

gansky1 · Sep 15, 2018

Safety goggles!

There are heavy-duty cutting discs for Dremel tools, I've used these to cut parts before with good luck.

That said, if that nut is indeed stainless steel, which it looks to be from the pic, it may be more of a challenge. You could try drilling into the basket hub in a few places until you can break it.

combo52 · Sep 15, 2018

Hi Jamie, if you have to destroy the basket lock ring you can use the regular aluminum basket drive block and lock ring, we have done it without problems.

John L.u

stricklybojack · Sep 16, 2018

.
May be a dumb question but...
Sure you are turning it in the right direction?

pulsator · Sep 16, 2018

Greg, I've used a Dremel exactly once and to say that they make me nervous is a but of an understatement... hahaha
Drilling seems to be the only option that seems like something I could handle. But I'm so scared of damaging the basket! I would be super upset if I did damage it. We'll see. I guess I'll have to work up the courage to do that!

John, I'm glad to hear you've had success with the regular lock ring! I suppose that if something corrodes, it won't be the basket. and I can just replace the lock ring and maybe the driver block every few years if they start to break down.

Robert, after the first few attempts at getting the nut started, I did check that. According to everything I can find, it is indeed righty tighty, lefty Lucy. Unless Whirlpool made a special drive block and nut with reverse threads for the same drive they used forever, it would make sense that it's the same. I don't think it would make sense to reverse it but I suppose I don't know for sure... I'll ask around at work on Monday. (That would suck if I've spent the last week tightening the crap out of it!)

Thanks for the input guys! I really want to get this machine cleaned up and running smoothly again!

pierreandreply4 · Sep 16, 2018

have you tried filling the tub with hot water or use something like Vaseline to try and losen the bolt?

pulsator · Sep 17, 2018

I did it!!!

Initially I thought I was beginning to make progress with the penetrating oil, after about half a turn and it not getting any easier, I took a closer look and realized that I was turning the spanner nut, along with the drive block and spin tube, but the basket was staying in place! I guess there was enough inertia in the basket to hold it still while I hammered away at the spanner wrench.

I had to brave a Dremel and a very small tungsten bit but I did it! I decided rather than risk accidentally cutting the basket that I'd cut away the threads that were corroded together to loosen the spanner nut. I got it down to about a thread and half of engagement and that did it! It finally broke free and unscrewed!

The old spanner nut and drive block are definitely done but I managed to not damage the basket at all! Closer inspection of the spin tube revealed that it appears to actually be in pretty much perfect shape and I may not have to replace it after all! I do still plan on doing the neutral drain kit though. A good friend of mine who worked in the Whirlpool washer life test lab for 32 years is going to help me with the tear down, repair, and re-assembly of the transmission.

I included some pictures of the old spanner nut, the old and new drive block, the before and after pictures of the tub's first pass cleaning, and the outside of the basket. I plan on tackling that this evening.

I also just realized that the only picture I posted is of the agi-shaft and basket attachment so I'll also attach some pictures of the machine itself!

Thanks for the input guys!