Whirlpool spanner nut wrench alternatives

[kenmoreguy89]

I did cut through the gap opening using a zip cutter and slightly ruined the basket in a small short area hopefully It wont cause problems in the future.

But the problem now is the same I cut that but how exactly could pry It out now?

 Inserting whatever into trying to pry wont do anything 

 

 

[kenmoreguy89]

[No message]

 

[mickeyd]

I hear ya, Freddy

And what with international flights down, who knows how long it would take the spanner to get there? You'll figure it out. Just keep at it. I used a clothespin to fix a door latch on a Whirlpool Portable Dishwasher the other day, after trying a dozen different tools, etc. and two dozen or more attempts. Good Luck, Buddy.

 

[ozzie908]

An old English proverb

Neccesity is the Mother of Invention....!!

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Okay...

Managed to remove the darn thing.

I could have kept pounding forever the thing was glued to the drive block by years of oxidation and limescale.

But I have another problem by pounding to get the nut out I have distorted slightly the basket post, especially in the small point that by mistake was cut, t was less than a 0.03 inch (1mm) cut but force applied while removing the f*****g  nut enlarged It consequently ruining the perfect round shape, can I eventually bang It back? Or what? 

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you think it will cause me any problems? </span>

<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span>

Anyways to clarify It was indeed meant to be unscrewed pounding counter clockwise.

 But again could have kept banging forever It was glued.

 

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Gave a bit of cleaning to the tub removing the big part, it was not too much gunky.

I started  unscrewing the bolts that don't seem in bad shape, good news because I will probably re use them, though removing the rear bolt that I was thinking was the one leaking showed I wasn't that wrong adressing one leaking spot to it because removing it a piece of rust remained attached to the bolt seal revealing a thinned rusted portion of the hole.

Water was indeed making its way through it.

The other hole was pristine.

Let's go ahead with the others.

I am worried for the spin basket though hope  I didn't cause anything  that will give me problems in the future.

Also I can see a seal in the shaft right under the two drive things that fits into the drive block.

I can't determine if that seal is good and I am afraid I might have ruined it as i heated the area with a heat gun unaware there was a seal down there.

That is the spin drive seal.

Should i take the stance i did not cause any damage?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Surprise surprise!

Layers of rust gunk Inside the seal lips it was actually holding the outer tub still glued to post.

Mamma mia!

What a mess!

 

[ozzie908]

Freddy

Have left an idea on your video posting...

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Yucky seal.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Austin...
If I knew it was that troubled I would not have brought it upstairs until fixed.
Now it is upstairs and I must fix it.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

For future references

Seal reads 96690

https://www.amazon.com/Repairwares-W10814296-W10814296VP-AP5983753-PS11723081/dp/B07PN7DV9D

 

[DADoES]

 
None of what you're seeing is unusual for a machine of that age.

The centerpost is considered integral to the baseplate.  There have never been factory-provided replacements of just the centerpost.  The entire baseplate would have to be replaced and they're long not-available unless a servicer somewhere happens to have an old-stock item.

Combo52/John Lefever has described sourcing a stainless steel sleeve of proper size to fit over the centerpost and welded in place to deal with rusting.

Someone else "arris" removed his baseplate, took it to a metal fabrication shop for them to source and install a new stainless steel centerpost into it.  Probably cost $$$.

Both are discussed in these threads from 5+ years ago:

61 Kenmore Washer

70's Lady Kenmore Agitator Removal

There are probably other threads where the procedure is mentioned.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Thank you Glenn.

Well, it is only from 1983 not that old, I am finding out these whirlpool are really not as strong as I thought and I'm a bit disappointed, wonderful machines and wash action is something extraordinary, but thought of these being stronger and more well thought, at least is not as strong as the filter flo is to me, it seems to me it had by far better materials and much thicker and was more well-thought, of course different system suspended wash tub vs outer tub, the outer tub is so filmsey in it and wash tub too, am amazed to see how lightweight they are, porcelain enamel  seems very  thin quality... Speed Queen (Amana) is about the same but thought it was because it was more modern and for modern standards is anyways out of every league<span style="font-size: 12pt;">, anyways better than plastic,  but honestly thought they were built better...</span>

Am also puzzled at how much water still sit in its tub after drain, no water slides  to have left water getting into the hole.. no wonder rust would appear soon in these.

Addd to everything evident neglect from whoever had it before...

I am sure it developed small occasional leakage from pump and post seal and the german Frau called Mr Mann that put casters to have her easily cleaning the leakage instead of repairing it and kept using it that way.

 

 

I will look into the sleeve approach maybe I can do that without actually welding it but using jb weld or similar stuff.

 

Anyways, I also wonder if gluing something above the seal kinda pro long it will do the job, just the portion where seal lips are is rusted, I was thinking of Sugru as I used it a lot of times to fix washer tubs.

I managed to fix several holes and a large rusted joint area in my 1964 Ignis tub and several dishwashers, the thing last ages and withstand boiling water perfectly.

 

But am afraid in the long run it will start detaching from the seal as the post is subject to vibrations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 5/11/2020-17:09]

 

[bradfordwhite]

You might want to wait to find another "parts" machine so you can combine parts.

 

If this is your first time working on these, realize it's normal to have some disasters.

  

Also, any parts that go in the tub need to end up being water tight and sealed from exposure to water if they are metal, or they will just get rusty and disintegrate.

 

That torn basket top where the retainer ring is......others would know better but it might be difficult getting that to fit right on the sleeve again.  

 

Yes when you're working in these you need a plethora of chemicals including :

 

 

liquid wrench- which you use to soften nuts and bolts where they're rusted, 

lithium or silicone grease, 

lime-a-way, 

dish soap, 

marine caulk

paint thinner

baking soda

fine grade/sewing machine lubricating oil

rusty metal primer

spray paint

rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle

white vinegar in spray bottle

automotive polish

iron-out

 

in addition to 

cellulose sponges, several sizes of scrub brushes, rubber gloves, latex gloves, paper towels, 5 gallon bucket, other buckets for soaking parts,

masking tape, sheet plastic, safety glasses,  .....

 

And patience.  Sometimes the repairs on these machines will require 10-20 steps and some of the steps will require drying times or soaking times.

 

 

[this post was last edited: 5/11/2020-17:55]

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Finding another belt drive whirlpool over here in Europe is so very rare.

You do find a good amount of direct drive stuff but belt drive are almost impossible to be found.

 On the bright side it didn't have motor problem or I would have had to convert it to 120-volt hoping to find one in the United States or look for or 240 volt  malleys whirlpool Motors in Australia.

 

Lots of washers I have of course I used  donor machines to fix them, but whirlpool like these or Kenmore are impossible findings<span style="font-size: 12pt;">, that is why I had it shipped all the way from Germany.</span>

And if I get one it might be in better conditions than this one is for sure.

Except for the spin tub  that I cut I wouldn't say I had disasters  happened but that this machine kind of is one itself 

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I didn't think it was such in a bad shape.</span>

Lady said was fully working... Yeah..my a**! 

By the way I got it thanks to a gentleman up here that made me the courtesy of go grabbing it and ship it to me as the lady was "come and get it".

The rules about those things being water tight  are rules for whatever machine you work into  and I know that.

Hopefully for what concerns the spin tub I can bang it normal round shape once I fit it in the new drive thingy and cover the cut area with some liquid stainless epoxy.

That glue is super strong and should  protect the exposed metal.

As the basket sit on the drive on the bottom part my hopes are that the cut is not going to cause issues, the lip portion is just to retain the thing still and pushed and if I manage to bang it back and glue with that thing my hopes are that will stay that way and protected from water and rust.

 

I use Wd40  that's the best thing for me.

 

Equipment for Restorations are pretty much the same for every machine.

And most of the times you have to go creative but I always seek advice.

 Like fixing muffs with a bike wheen air chamber.

Or gloves and glue to fix a particular pressure switch.

 I have everything I need even bearing extractors...except<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> for machines like this that you need a special wp tool, say the wrench that even if I got it at this point I'm not even sure it would have helped me budge the thing one bit..</span>

I actually typically do less of much of the stuff you mention.

Granted that some products have a multi function.

My regret is that I brought it upstairs thinking it had nothing as I tried it 4 years ago  when I got  and it seemed fine. if I knew I would have repaired it  in the workshop where also had space to work well on tub cleaing n and treat whatever had to be treated.

Now I need to bring stuff down there.

It's not the first time working and restoring a machine for me but sure is the first time for a whirlpool belt drive and access to diagrams are limited.

While I am disappointed about the quality of some components I am amazed of how they managed to get everything so complicated in It.

A machine you have to detach half of the transmission ( and I still have to completely get what to do exactly)  just to replace the belt is a bit Crazy. Haha

 

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 5/11/2020-18:41]

 

[kenmoreguy89]

As you link me polymer silicone I remember my first attempt to fix my Ignis washer tub.

I tried the polymer grey sealant but the thing lasted like a blind cat in a highway.

It was supposed to withstand everything temperature and chemical but could not make it over the 2nd boilwash.

 

[combo52]

Outer tub Leaks In A 1983 WP BD Washer

Hi Federico, at this point you only need a center post seal and a tube of really good Marine sealant I use a 3M product and this washer can be cleaned up and put back together and you will have no leaks from the outer for at least a decade or more of use.

 

I will send you my phone # through the message system and you can call me if you have any questions.

 

John L.