Maytag 806 new acquisition

[swestoyz]

To clarify...

Maytag went back and forth on this procedure over the years - either fully turn the pulley until the spring is fully disengaged within the brake, or turn the pulley just enough that it starts to push against the rotor in the brake.

Others probably have their own preferences for this procedure. I typically turn it just enough to just start putting pressure against the brake and install the drive lug (flat side against the pulley), in range of 3/8" clearance against the pulley lug, rather than holding the tub or trans in place with one hand, and attempt to put the drive lug on 180" opposite of the pulley lug with a third hand.

You'll know you got it right if the agitator doesn't start part of it's stroke before the tub begins to spin. If so, try again with a bit less clearance between the two lugs with the pulley against the brake rotor.

Ben

 

[casciomichael]

Thanks for the clarification

I was confused with the procedure as I have seen both. I suspect it was incorrect when i pulled the cover off and it definitely is incorrect now. I am going to try the slight tension method first as it seems easier with only two hands. I will report back.

 

[stuftrock1]

Reply #17

Would you be willing to ship it by any chance if the OP is not interested?

 

[casciomichael]

Adjusted lug and maybe found the problem

I adjusted the lug as per spec and I am not getting any indexing on agitate and the spin braking is about 6-7 seconds to a stop.

The noise is still present. I ran it on spin with the pump belt on and the noise is still there. Then decided to see if I could watch it spin up while looking under the machine. I can see the transmission drive belt flapping until it gets up to speed, is this indicative of a bad belt or something else? The belt is a gates replacement belt, green cloth.

Many thanks,
Michael

 

[swestoyz]

Whoa, you’re running a non Maytag drive belt? That’s definitely going to be a problem. It’s not slipping/clutching properly. PN 211125.

Ben

 

[rp2813]

Our belt-eating '97 Amana used to make a sort of clicking sound when it was time for yet another replacement.   I agree that the Gates belt could be what's making the noise.  If you can find an OEM belt from Maytag in Newton, it would be worth it.  If not, the current Whirlpool-sourced belt with part number referenced above would be the next best thing.

 

[good-shepherd]

willing to ship it by any chance

Yeah, I could do that.

Probably won't be cheap however.

 

[stuftrock1]

Awesome! If the OP doesn't want it and it's not too expensive I might take it off your hands.

 

[casciomichael]

Some modifications...

Tonight I wired in a tub light, being a series 2 this was a feature I determined was a must have! Bought a socket with leads from Ebay, got an old three pole switch at an estate sale, epoxied the bracket to the lid. Used a radio punch to put two round holes in the upper tub. Then I filed down the edges and touched up the bare steel with porc a fix. I wired in the additional wires to the unused common terminal on the timer and third lug on the lid switch. I also wired in a lid switch bypass in the event I want to watch the machine wash. I would normally keep this switch off as it bypasses the out of balance circuit. I made a lens out of some plexiglass and set it in with silicone. The bulb is a 25w bayonet base bulb.

Regarding the noise, one of my AW friends who is in the area has some belts for me to try. Hopefully the noise goes away.

 

[casciomichael]

Hypothesis on the noise

After studying the machine some more, I think the noise is caused by two things. The belt has a flat spot in it cauisng the motor to jerk on spin up. The motor rollers/glides look like they are shot. It has good spring pressure but the motor it moving up and down during the spin up. I ordered new glides and plan on cleaning up the tracks and regreasing them. Check out the video attached and see the rocking of the motor.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[swestoyz]

Nice tub-light upgrade!

Michael, great observations. With a new Maytag/FSP sourced drive belt, new glides, and a cleaned up motor carriage with a fresh coat of poly-lube, and a properly adjusted pump belt, your Maytag will be back in tip-top shape.

One recommendation would be to clean the motor and transmission pulley. They don't need to be shining bright, but you'll want to clean off any rust or belt material that was left behind from the Gates belt.

Ben

 

[good-shepherd]

moving up and down during the spin up.

Something is worn or loose, the carriage shouldn't have that much vertical play.

 

[casciomichael]

New roller and belts on the way, dryer door repaired

I ordered new motor glides on ebay for $5. It will give me an opportunity to clean up the tracks and grease them with poly lube. One of my aw friends in tbe area is bringing over a set of maytag belts to see if the clatter goes away. I’m moving the machines into their permanent home today and plan on saying good riddance and goodbye to my lg (kenmore) front loaders. Someone else will surely love them!

Also fixed the door liner of the dg808 dryer. Not sure of the series of events, but the door knob was replaced with a regular cabinet knob. That knob has no reinforcing boss that supports the space between the metal door and plastic liner. Consequently, the door liner was broken in several places around the knob area. After super gluing the pieces together and some reinforcement with epoxy, it is back to looking sort of normal. Relaced the knob with a new maytag knob, $8 on ebay.

 

[yogitunes]

when you clean up the motor glides and lube....

shouldn't the motor pulley be mounted flush with the motor shaft?...

 

[casciomichael]

Motor glides and lube

I believe you are correct. Pulley should be flush with the shaft.