a black oil/grease is getting on on the clothes sometime during washing. It leaves several spatters of oil on the clothes which are very hard to remove. Is a transmission seal leaking? If so, how do I get instructions on how to repair it? Does it require special tools and how difficult is it to do? Thank you very much for your help. The machine is 35 years old and I replaced the motor6 months ago- a great machine.
Maytag A107A washer oil on clothes
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Help Support :
Try using the Super Searchalator for information about your problem. It has been discussed here a number of times.
Sorry, I am new to this site and do not know how to get on the supersearchalator to do the search?? ALSO: Trying to figure out how to remove agitator as there are not and screws on the side of it.
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my first message;much appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my first message;much appreciated.
Sounds like the center seal may be letting water into the trans.
To remove the agitator, you pull up from the baseplate with both hands. It normally takes a lot of force to remove it the first time, if it has been awhile. Sometimes it can be very difficult to remove and requires some aditional brute force from a tool or bladder system.
To remove the agitator, you pull up from the baseplate with both hands. It normally takes a lot of force to remove it the first time, if it has been awhile. Sometimes it can be very difficult to remove and requires some aditional brute force from a tool or bladder system.
hippiedoll
Well-known member
removing the agitator....
and if you still can't remove the agitator with brute force, a pretty easy way that i did it was fill the washer with boiling water from the stove and then turned the washer on to agitate for about ten minutes. and then let the washer drain out the hot water.
once the washer is empty, you can reach down into the washtub and grab the agitator around the base and try pulling up on it then, while the plastic of the agitator is still warm & somewhat pliable, from the super hot agitating cycle.
that's what i did with my first maytag center-dial washer and it did "pop" up when i pulled up on it.
GOOD LUCK & keep us posted....
and if you still can't remove the agitator with brute force, a pretty easy way that i did it was fill the washer with boiling water from the stove and then turned the washer on to agitate for about ten minutes. and then let the washer drain out the hot water.
once the washer is empty, you can reach down into the washtub and grab the agitator around the base and try pulling up on it then, while the plastic of the agitator is still warm & somewhat pliable, from the super hot agitating cycle.
that's what i did with my first maytag center-dial washer and it did "pop" up when i pulled up on it.
GOOD LUCK & keep us posted....
hey Ben
sent you an email, but it came back bad address, send me your emai address. Thanks Mike
sent you an email, but it came back bad address, send me your emai address. Thanks Mike
beekeyknee
Well-known member
What do we call you? You didn't fill out your profile. The Super Searchalator isn't available to not contributing members, as you've probably found out.
Is a transmission seal leaking?
The transmission has a bronze bearing on the top of the driveshaft which can allow oil to pass to the wash tub if worn and in combination with a failed stem/agitator seal. The machine will need a new stem/boot seal kit, probably a new tub bearing as well. Transmission may need service also.
It is a major job but there are many posts explaining the process in detail:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520
The transmission has a bronze bearing on the top of the driveshaft which can allow oil to pass to the wash tub if worn and in combination with a failed stem/agitator seal. The machine will need a new stem/boot seal kit, probably a new tub bearing as well. Transmission may need service also.
It is a major job but there are many posts explaining the process in detail:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520
beekeyknee
Well-known member
Drew's tutorials are excellent. This is mine. It's longer but might have some useful information. It's about transferring a Pitman style trans. into an Orbital machine, but a lot of the same rules apply.
www.automaticwasher.org
Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.
To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...
www.automaticwasher.org
I really appreciate the help
Thank you for the information;at least now I know what I might be getting into if I tackle this repair. I will start looking on-line at parts and take a closer look at the machine as I am a bit concerned at what I might find in a teardown when I get to the connection to the transmission. At least, based on the information you and the other folks on this site provided, I know how to determine the root cause and methodically dis-assemble the Maytag.
Regards,
Frank
Thank you for the information;at least now I know what I might be getting into if I tackle this repair. I will start looking on-line at parts and take a closer look at the machine as I am a bit concerned at what I might find in a teardown when I get to the connection to the transmission. At least, based on the information you and the other folks on this site provided, I know how to determine the root cause and methodically dis-assemble the Maytag.
Regards,
Frank
Started the project
Pulled the agitator off, purchased a 3lb hammer(not a rubber mallet), used a cast metal spanner wrench and hit the spanner nut. Makes a heck of an echo each time you hit it. Unfortunately it is on extremely tight. Would probably go deaf before that would ever come off. I did resort to using sound protection as I was making a lot of noise with the hammer hitting the wrench dozens and dozens of times, but not making any progress. I will probably have to pick up a cold chisel and plan on doing this on a day when I have far more time unless someone has an easier way to remove the nut. I did see the example of using the cutting tool but just a little concerned about cutting too deep. Projects rarely go as planned but the prior responses in the thread with the heads up on the frozen spanner nut certainly help - otherwise my assumption would be that I am doing something incorrectly. Cheers.
Pulled the agitator off, purchased a 3lb hammer(not a rubber mallet), used a cast metal spanner wrench and hit the spanner nut. Makes a heck of an echo each time you hit it. Unfortunately it is on extremely tight. Would probably go deaf before that would ever come off. I did resort to using sound protection as I was making a lot of noise with the hammer hitting the wrench dozens and dozens of times, but not making any progress. I will probably have to pick up a cold chisel and plan on doing this on a day when I have far more time unless someone has an easier way to remove the nut. I did see the example of using the cutting tool but just a little concerned about cutting too deep. Projects rarely go as planned but the prior responses in the thread with the heads up on the frozen spanner nut certainly help - otherwise my assumption would be that I am doing something incorrectly. Cheers.
beekeyknee
Well-known member
I guess it's the spanner nut you're trying to get off? The first piece to take off after the agitator comes out? If it is and it won't a cold chisel will break it off quickly. I assume you're banging on it the right way? Tighten is loosen.
Getting the spanner nut off is easy. If the mounting stem is stuck on, that won't be so easy. The last time I did it the set screw was frozen in the stem and that's why I had to cut it off. Not pleasant and can be tricky as cutting too deep can damage the trans. neck or letting the angle cutter get away from you and gouging the porcelain basket could be a disaster. I suppose you could try and drill out the set screw if it's stuck, but you'll have to be carefully doing that too. If you drill to far you could damage the trans. neck that way. I elected to cut off the mounting stem because I didn't have a drill that would fit down inside the basket and still have enough room to do the drilling. Hopefully your set screw will come out and you won't have to cut off or drill out the mounting stem. If you do have to cut the stem out, make sure the angle cutter spins up away from the basket so if it does get away from you it will jump up and not down toward the basket. A firm strong hand and patients is needed for that procedure. Slow and stead wins the race in cutting or drilling. It doesn't sound like you're to that point yet. Hopefully you won't have to cross that bridge. If you cut wear eye protection.
Getting the spanner nut off is easy. If the mounting stem is stuck on, that won't be so easy. The last time I did it the set screw was frozen in the stem and that's why I had to cut it off. Not pleasant and can be tricky as cutting too deep can damage the trans. neck or letting the angle cutter get away from you and gouging the porcelain basket could be a disaster. I suppose you could try and drill out the set screw if it's stuck, but you'll have to be carefully doing that too. If you drill to far you could damage the trans. neck that way. I elected to cut off the mounting stem because I didn't have a drill that would fit down inside the basket and still have enough room to do the drilling. Hopefully your set screw will come out and you won't have to cut off or drill out the mounting stem. If you do have to cut the stem out, make sure the angle cutter spins up away from the basket so if it does get away from you it will jump up and not down toward the basket. A firm strong hand and patients is needed for that procedure. Slow and stead wins the race in cutting or drilling. It doesn't sound like you're to that point yet. Hopefully you won't have to cross that bridge. If you cut wear eye protection.
beekeeknee is right. These are left hand threads, so the nut loosens in the direction one would normally expect to tighten.
Following directions
Thank you, I have followed the directions provided and was trying to remove it in a clockwise direction however it would not loosen. I will end up using a cold chisel. If the mounting stem allen screw is stuck, I believe I have an old attachment(if I can find it) for the drill that permits me to drill a hole 90 degrees from the drill head. I think I used it once 25 years ago. I do wear eye protection but appreciate the reminder;probably could have used a reminder about not hitting your knuckle with the hammer as the spanner wrench fit is a little sloppy on the old spanner nut.
Thank you, I have followed the directions provided and was trying to remove it in a clockwise direction however it would not loosen. I will end up using a cold chisel. If the mounting stem allen screw is stuck, I believe I have an old attachment(if I can find it) for the drill that permits me to drill a hole 90 degrees from the drill head. I think I used it once 25 years ago. I do wear eye protection but appreciate the reminder;probably could have used a reminder about not hitting your knuckle with the hammer as the spanner wrench fit is a little sloppy on the old spanner nut.
Replaced the tub seal - have a leak at the band clamp
I had to result to using a cold chisel to remove the spanner nut, but that worked out well. The mounting stem took a bit of effort(had to lock the transmission in place) and time however I was able to remove it. The inner tub was heavier than I expected but not a problem. Had to deal with some rust but removed and replaced the parts and re-assembled. Only remaining issue is a leak around the tub cover band clamp and rubber gasket. Getting slightly frustrating as I do not know what I am doing incorrectly. I tried adjusting it about 6 times and still no home run. Water leak out at 2 areas around the gasket. I would appreciate any thoughts on how I could do a better job of installing the cover, gasket and band? Thanks again as the information provided so far has been very helpful.
Best Regards
I had to result to using a cold chisel to remove the spanner nut, but that worked out well. The mounting stem took a bit of effort(had to lock the transmission in place) and time however I was able to remove it. The inner tub was heavier than I expected but not a problem. Had to deal with some rust but removed and replaced the parts and re-assembled. Only remaining issue is a leak around the tub cover band clamp and rubber gasket. Getting slightly frustrating as I do not know what I am doing incorrectly. I tried adjusting it about 6 times and still no home run. Water leak out at 2 areas around the gasket. I would appreciate any thoughts on how I could do a better job of installing the cover, gasket and band? Thanks again as the information provided so far has been very helpful.
Best Regards
If the tub cover gasket is original to the machine there's a chance that it's old enough to have taken a set, meaning it's permanently shaped to match it's original position only. To get around this you can try replacing the gasket with a new one, or you can liberally apply DC-111(a Dow Corning product) to the old gasket and reinstall it. I've used it extensively on aircraft air conditioning and other duct work and it works very well. It's very similar in appearance to Vaseline, but much thicker.
Another thing to look into, and you may have already done this, is the drain holes in the top surface of the tub cover. Water that splashes into this area will normally drain back into the tub through these holes, but if the holes are blocked up it will accumulate until it runs over the side. This would be fairly obvious though, so chances are if that was happening you'd have seen it.
Another thing to look into, and you may have already done this, is the drain holes in the top surface of the tub cover. Water that splashes into this area will normally drain back into the tub through these holes, but if the holes are blocked up it will accumulate until it runs over the side. This would be fairly obvious though, so chances are if that was happening you'd have seen it.
beekeyknee
Well-known member
There's different ideas about the best way to do this. I think good cleaning before reassembling is a good start. But I think that way about everything. Things just seem to work better and look nicer that way, don't you think?
I would make sure the outside edge of the tub cover is clean and mineral free. SOS pad or green scratchy pad and soap, then rinse. Is there any mineral build up there? If so use some CLR or vinegar and get that off until your down to clean porcelain. Same goes for the inside edge of the outer tub and the flange at the top edge of the tub.
If there's any rust on these areas, use some medium to fine grade emery paper to remove it. Wipe the areas and let them dry thoroughly. Then these areas will have to be patched to stop further rust. I like JB Weld. The two tube kind. One tube is red (hardener) and the other black (steel). Mix equal amounts from the tubes onto a piece of cardboard and mix with a toothpick until it turns grey. Apply enough to cover the damaged area(s). Then spit on you finger and smooth the JB down until you get a perfect even repaired surface. Let dry for 24 hours in a warm dry room. After that you will have a nice repair that's almost as nice as the porcelain. If your porcelain is perfect, I've wasted a paragraph.
Next, how's your tub clamp? Make sure it's clean and rust free. Use some WD-40 or light weight oil and some steel wool to clean it, then wipe it down with a rag. If it's really bad you might consider replacing it. I've never had to, but some have. Make sure it's not bent. Also make sure the screws on the clamp are working well. Put some 3 in 1 oil on them, screw them both all the way together and apart and wipe off the excess oil. If the screws are rusty, this will help clean them and get them working well again. A spray with WD will rinse away the rust particles and you can reapply 3 in 1 again.
Clean your rubber tub seal well, making sure there isn't any rust bonded to it. You can scrape it lightly with a dull knife if needed to remove rust or debris. Just don't cut it. After it's clean, take a rag and spray some Pledge into the rag and pull the seal through the Pledge soaked rag until it's well coated. I have even soaked old rubber parts in Armor All or similar type product if more drastic treatment is needed. Put the rubber parts in a big pot, pour the product over the rubber parts until all are covered, put a lid on the pot and place in the oven at around 150-175 degrees for 24 hours, remove the pot and let cool, take out the parts and wipe down. This usually rejuvenates old rubber parts if they're not to far gone. This usually isn't needed for the tub seal though. It's pretty durable.
Next, take a rag and spray a good amount of Pledge onto it and wipe down the outside edge of the tub cover and the inside edge of the outer tub. This will help the two parts slide together easily. Then slip your rubber tub seal over the top of your tub cover. Pick the smoothest sides of the tub seal to place against the tub cover and toward the tub lip for the best seal. It's a triangular seal and can be turned so the best sides are against these two water sealing surfaces. Next, install the tub cover on the tub with the off balance flange straight toward the back of the machine. Consider this the 12:00 o'clock position. Now lower the machine top down and adjust the tub cover to machine top clearance. It should be close but not touching all around the circumference of the opening. A 1/4 inch to 3/8ths is about right. Comfortably close but not touching. After you get the adjustment right, raise the machine cover again. Put your hand between the inter tub and tub cover and gently slide the tub seal down the tub cover until it seats between the cover and the outer tub flange, making sure the tub cover doesn't move or your tub cover to machine top clearance will no longer be right. The silicone in the Pledge will help you slide the tub seal down without moving the cover. Lower the machine top down again and check your clearance. Press down on the machine cover front and grab the agitator and move the tub around to check the clearance. If it's not rubbing and it looks even all around you're good. Always remember - this is your final tub cover adjustment. If you move it or bump it you will have to adjust it again.
Now raise the machine cover again. Take your tub cover clamp and assemble the two halves. Just a turn or two of the screws should be enough. Put the clamp over the tub where the flange and seal are with the screw adjustments at the two o'clock and 8 o'clock position (back right-hand corner and front left-hand corner. Now start tightening the screws. Go back and forth to each corner and tighten each screw equally. This is especially important as the clamp starts to get tighter. It keeps the tub in round. As you slowly tighten the screws you will see the clamp closing over the flange and seal and they will disappear from sight. Get the clamp good and tight. If all goes well you should now have a water tight seal. If you have a good tub seal that's not damaged or creased this should work. I've heard of people using silicone sealant on leaky spots on the seal when they can't get it to stop, but I've never had to do this. This can be a tricky and sometimes frustrating process, but if done properly it usually works. Good luck.
I would make sure the outside edge of the tub cover is clean and mineral free. SOS pad or green scratchy pad and soap, then rinse. Is there any mineral build up there? If so use some CLR or vinegar and get that off until your down to clean porcelain. Same goes for the inside edge of the outer tub and the flange at the top edge of the tub.
If there's any rust on these areas, use some medium to fine grade emery paper to remove it. Wipe the areas and let them dry thoroughly. Then these areas will have to be patched to stop further rust. I like JB Weld. The two tube kind. One tube is red (hardener) and the other black (steel). Mix equal amounts from the tubes onto a piece of cardboard and mix with a toothpick until it turns grey. Apply enough to cover the damaged area(s). Then spit on you finger and smooth the JB down until you get a perfect even repaired surface. Let dry for 24 hours in a warm dry room. After that you will have a nice repair that's almost as nice as the porcelain. If your porcelain is perfect, I've wasted a paragraph.
Next, how's your tub clamp? Make sure it's clean and rust free. Use some WD-40 or light weight oil and some steel wool to clean it, then wipe it down with a rag. If it's really bad you might consider replacing it. I've never had to, but some have. Make sure it's not bent. Also make sure the screws on the clamp are working well. Put some 3 in 1 oil on them, screw them both all the way together and apart and wipe off the excess oil. If the screws are rusty, this will help clean them and get them working well again. A spray with WD will rinse away the rust particles and you can reapply 3 in 1 again.
Clean your rubber tub seal well, making sure there isn't any rust bonded to it. You can scrape it lightly with a dull knife if needed to remove rust or debris. Just don't cut it. After it's clean, take a rag and spray some Pledge into the rag and pull the seal through the Pledge soaked rag until it's well coated. I have even soaked old rubber parts in Armor All or similar type product if more drastic treatment is needed. Put the rubber parts in a big pot, pour the product over the rubber parts until all are covered, put a lid on the pot and place in the oven at around 150-175 degrees for 24 hours, remove the pot and let cool, take out the parts and wipe down. This usually rejuvenates old rubber parts if they're not to far gone. This usually isn't needed for the tub seal though. It's pretty durable.
Next, take a rag and spray a good amount of Pledge onto it and wipe down the outside edge of the tub cover and the inside edge of the outer tub. This will help the two parts slide together easily. Then slip your rubber tub seal over the top of your tub cover. Pick the smoothest sides of the tub seal to place against the tub cover and toward the tub lip for the best seal. It's a triangular seal and can be turned so the best sides are against these two water sealing surfaces. Next, install the tub cover on the tub with the off balance flange straight toward the back of the machine. Consider this the 12:00 o'clock position. Now lower the machine top down and adjust the tub cover to machine top clearance. It should be close but not touching all around the circumference of the opening. A 1/4 inch to 3/8ths is about right. Comfortably close but not touching. After you get the adjustment right, raise the machine cover again. Put your hand between the inter tub and tub cover and gently slide the tub seal down the tub cover until it seats between the cover and the outer tub flange, making sure the tub cover doesn't move or your tub cover to machine top clearance will no longer be right. The silicone in the Pledge will help you slide the tub seal down without moving the cover. Lower the machine top down again and check your clearance. Press down on the machine cover front and grab the agitator and move the tub around to check the clearance. If it's not rubbing and it looks even all around you're good. Always remember - this is your final tub cover adjustment. If you move it or bump it you will have to adjust it again.
Now raise the machine cover again. Take your tub cover clamp and assemble the two halves. Just a turn or two of the screws should be enough. Put the clamp over the tub where the flange and seal are with the screw adjustments at the two o'clock and 8 o'clock position (back right-hand corner and front left-hand corner. Now start tightening the screws. Go back and forth to each corner and tighten each screw equally. This is especially important as the clamp starts to get tighter. It keeps the tub in round. As you slowly tighten the screws you will see the clamp closing over the flange and seal and they will disappear from sight. Get the clamp good and tight. If all goes well you should now have a water tight seal. If you have a good tub seal that's not damaged or creased this should work. I've heard of people using silicone sealant on leaky spots on the seal when they can't get it to stop, but I've never had to do this. This can be a tricky and sometimes frustrating process, but if done properly it usually works. Good luck.
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