Was at a friend's house this weekend and he stated his Maytag washer was leaking badly. Upon further inspection, I found the leak to be coming right from the part below.
Maytag A208
- Thread starter gadgetgary
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Is this what I need to order???
Is this what I need to order???
yes
Easy.
A trick of mine is once I have the plastic nozzle inserted into the rubber tube, I wet the larger end of the rubber tube with a little soap and water so that the rubber hose slides over it without pulling back the sleeve and exposing the plastic nozzle.
Good luck!
Dave
A trick of mine is once I have the plastic nozzle inserted into the rubber tube, I wet the larger end of the rubber tube with a little soap and water so that the rubber hose slides over it without pulling back the sleeve and exposing the plastic nozzle.
Good luck!
Dave
jeb
Well-known member
Injector repair
Recently a friend had the same problem and the local parts store was out of them, so instead of waiting a few days we just bought a hose coupler and two hose clamps (all less than a dollar) and put the two hoses together. It was intended as a temporary fix but the washer has worked fine ever since so we decided to just use it this way. Jeff
Recently a friend had the same problem and the local parts store was out of them, so instead of waiting a few days we just bought a hose coupler and two hose clamps (all less than a dollar) and put the two hoses together. It was intended as a temporary fix but the washer has worked fine ever since so we decided to just use it this way. Jeff
Repairing A Leaky MT Inlet Water Injector
Yes the pictured kit will work, but be very careful if you use the new hose clamps not to over tighten them, the orignal clamps are a better type of center pull clamps and they usually can be reused. The only part of this assembly that ever fails is the little rubber insert, but if you have the other parts you can use them if you want, but as discussed in another thread NEW parts are sometimes not as well made as the orignal parts.
Dave's tip about putting soap on the end that gets inserted into the hose toward the front of he machines is an important one that allows proper assembly.
Yes you can bypass this whole assembly and the washer will work fine, but if you are on a public water system bypassing this air-gap is very against the law and if there was ever a problem caused by your bypassing it I would not want to be in your shoes.
John L.
Yes the pictured kit will work, but be very careful if you use the new hose clamps not to over tighten them, the orignal clamps are a better type of center pull clamps and they usually can be reused. The only part of this assembly that ever fails is the little rubber insert, but if you have the other parts you can use them if you want, but as discussed in another thread NEW parts are sometimes not as well made as the orignal parts.
Dave's tip about putting soap on the end that gets inserted into the hose toward the front of he machines is an important one that allows proper assembly.
Yes you can bypass this whole assembly and the washer will work fine, but if you are on a public water system bypassing this air-gap is very against the law and if there was ever a problem caused by your bypassing it I would not want to be in your shoes.
John L.
If you search the archives you'll also find the part number of the updated air gap "housing" the injector fits into. This updated version has sides that fit up against the top of the machine when installed and helps prevent splash over. Highly recommended! -C
Failure
So basically is the leak caused by a split in that black rubber tube?
So basically is the leak caused by a split in that black rubber tube?
Gary, it could be a split, or as I've seen on a couple MT's, calcium build up causing the flow out of the tube to change pattern and "splash" up out of the housing. You'd be surprised how quickly "a splash" adds up to rust and water on the floor. The revised housing addresses this, but all the parts are cheap enough that it's worth renewing them all. -C
