Maytag A608 era

[akronman]

Rusty but working well 608 Maytag

front interior, criminy!

Umm, I turn the pics 90 degreees in Picasa, but they stay on wrong side when I upload. HMmmmm

 

[akronman]

608 'Tag interior

The simplicity (and rust) amazes me. I'd love to learn the intricacies of a suds-saver model someday, but so far I'm getting more and more impressed with the stability and simplicity of this machine. I guess the excellence is all in the 2 speeds and the many buttons, the timer, wash levels, etc etc. The actual mechanics are pretty straight-forward and long-lasting.
I did a load of 4 throw rugs, heavy %#@*& things, and the machine just quietly stood there humming along, no difficulty at all, no knocks and small earthquakes like other machines. So, I am now Maytag convinced, glad to have it, and well worth $22.50, and looking forward to folks' advice and a de-rust/repaint project after the holidays! It's already white and I'm pretty color-blind, so white it will remain. Sure does also look like it's time to repaint that old basement floor, too, eh?

 

[rp2813]

Mark, you have fallen in love with Maytags for all the same reasons I did.

Enjoy the machine. It's clear that even years of accumulated rust couldn't kill it. That's a Maytag for you!

 

[mistereric]

Good lord thats a rusty gal! Thanks for making me feel a little better about my beast.

 

[qsd-dan]

I think I need a tetanus shot after looking at the pics of that old gal, lol

Congrats!

 

[cfz2882]

a little cleanup needed,but a nice score for $22.50!
(i got my '65 MT for $2.00-it had a seized pump,so i got a
really good deal on mine LOL)
Dec.'79 must be one of the very last center dials?
Alot of the mess looks like it might be suds boil-over LOL

 

[akronman]

repairs to A608

In removing the front and tilting up the top, it also turns out that in addition to the tub-to-pump hose being recent, the fill/air gap hose assy is newer and shiny too. With 5 loads now done and not a drop of water inside the cabinet, I'm guessing strongly that the rust problem from the 2 hoses is over, just needs cleaned and repainted. Also, the water level buttons are shiny pure white in comparison to all other buttons that are sort of yellowed with age. So, for a 30 year old machine, those are 3 minor repairs, not a bad service record at all.
Can anyone tell me year of production from Maytag A608 Serial #618214-CX?
Thanks
Mark

 

[qsd-dan]

Can anyone tell me year of production from Maytag A608 Seria

Dec 1979

You may want to find a tall tub donor machine and just swap the top and console over. That's a whole lotta work to perform.....unless you're up for a big challenge.

 

[combo52]

RUSTY MAYTAG WASHER

All the rust you are seeing is from chronic oversudsing where the suds foam up and just drool down over the tub. We have seen many abused machines like this over the years. I would enjoy it as it is and as Dan suggested look for a rust free donor machine, there are hundreds of good MTs being crushed every day that are in great shape. In fact we have a mid 80s large tub MT suds-saver washer at the warehouse now that needs a home the first $50 or more can have it, its in good condition and works.

 

[beekeyknee]

Good Heavens!

And I thought I had it bad when I did mine. I don't envy you. Good Luck.

 

[akronman]

Rusty A608

I'm not expecting I'll ever get this thing pristine, showroom new, that's quite OK with me. It's gonna work for me in a 94 year old basement with cobwebs and spiders. My plan is just to remove the cabinet entirely, sand it like hell inside and out, primer and 2 topcoats. That interior base will require a steel brush, etc, then primer and paint. I enjoy watching some of you guys with picture threads of perfect restorations, but my interest and budget will both live fine with a reasonable clean-up. Everything is intact and works perfectly, except that plastiChrome center of the dial.

For a $22.50 original investment, and probably more than that again in paint, it'll look far better than when it dropped rust on every step headed down to the basement.

I've been on repairclinic.com and one other site, downloaded grainy diagrams of all the different systems in that machine, all I need is that chrome center and elbow grease from lots of elbows! And I never go crazy with cups and cups of detergent, that oversuds crap won't come back and overflow again.
Thanks
Mark

 

[akronman]

Maytag belts

One question though-----belts look solid and fine shape, the agitator turns over very heavy loads, the spinning seems plenty speedy enough for average toploaders even when doing rugs and towels, and I've read various threads here about "belt clutch" and motor springs taking up the slack and designed to be loose, so:

Belts are looser than hell!!! That's expected? Is there a specific expected and measurable deflection, the way belt tension is measured? Like I said, she's running fine under any/all conditions I've loaded her up with yet!.

Thanks
Mark

 

[toploader55]

Hi Mark

Looks like we've got the same mess ! Eddie

 

[cfz2882]

loose belts

loose belts probably caused by a seized or stiff motor carrage
-might need "broken loose"and worked some to free it up...

 

[combo52]

MT BELT TENISON

The pump belt is supposed to be very loose the main drive belt is also under very tension but the motor carriage should move easily and the rollers should be intact. If it moves stiffly shout some turbine oil on the rollers and work the motor back and forth until it moves easily.

 

[alr2903]

Akronman, if it works well enough for you, its fine. If your planned installation will hide the sides, you might luck out and find a junker to get a front panel in better shape and the chrome plug for the timer knob. You mentioned drain tubs, was this machine in a basement? Your porcelain top is in great shape. I went to buy a sofa at an estate sale and brought home a fabrimatic small tub for $50. Enjoy your Maytag for what it is, it is evident that they installed some new hoses as you pointed out. So at least some maintenance was performed over the years. alr2903

 

[qsd-dan]

If the belts look ok, they're probably fine. When the belts have a lot of wear, they'll emanate a "whine" (particularly the pump belt) that can only be experienced, not described. Proper operation of the motor carriage is essential to a happy and properly functioning Maytag, so replacing the rollers and springs along with cleaning/lubing the tracks with poly lube (please, don't use turbine oil. It will attract dirt and can also work its way to the belts) is highly recommended.

Here's a genuine Maytag kit with rollers, springs, and poly lube for cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MAYTAG-WASHER-P...148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564159e25c

 

[akronman]

Maytag motor kit

Thanks QSD-Dan, when I saw the Ebay price of $2.40, I just hit the "BuyNow" key immediately.

You, and others, have been very helpful, and I'm having fun!

Mark

 

[akronman]

Maytag Lid Stop Switch

Like any good member here, I always undo the lid switch first thing so I can WATCH WATCH WATCH. BUT, it seems like the Maytag A608 has both lid switch and unbalance switch as one unit? If my investigations are correct so far, then I will be safer and smarter and not jumper wire around the switch, I will leave it as is and use my 1/2 clothespin "Excellence in Engineering" fix to be able to watch the action. Some expert please confirm this?

Also--thanks to Dan and Combo52 and alr2903 and other helpful folks----Motor carriage rollers, springs, poly lube are coming in the mail, but I checked already and motor moves easily approx 3/8 inch and springs right back. During cleanup and derust/repaint, I will most assuredly clean up the 2 part carriage and install the new kit, it looks easy, but for now all still seems well with belts/motor movement, etc

During continued watching while running and flashlight inspection with the front removed, it certainly looks like TONS of previous owner oversudsing went on for ages and ages, all down the sides of the outer tub. Now wiped clean and will stay that way, no inches of suds on top of water for me!
So, newer tub hose and fill hose were installed at some point, and no more excess suds, it now looks as though my horrid rust CAUSE is over and done, just needs cleaned up and repainted. Ummm, how dumb can some folks be?????

Still amazed at how perfectly well she operates with all that rusty damage through the years, takes a licking and still keeps ticking!

 

[combo52]

MT MOTOR ROLLERS

MT used an inferior plastic material for thier motor rollers and lid hinge balls in the 1960s and as a result all of the original rollers and lid balls crumbled and broke. They changed to a much better material in the 1970s after this time motor rollers no longer would break. Originally they thought the reason for the breakage was due to the fact they used regular petroleum grease on the rollers in the 1960s. So they recommended using only Polylube on the rollers which is better for plastics, and if you have Polyube handy I would use it. But turbine oil works just fine on any MT rollers that are still in use, we have been using it for over 30 years without any problems what so ever. Turbine oil will no more likely seep through the steel base plate of the washer and get on the belts than PL nor will it be anymore likely to attract dirt, sometimes I don't know where you come up with things Dan.