Maytag A608 era

[akronman]

Rusty A608

I'm not expecting I'll ever get this thing pristine, showroom new, that's quite OK with me. It's gonna work for me in a 94 year old basement with cobwebs and spiders. My plan is just to remove the cabinet entirely, sand it like hell inside and out, primer and 2 topcoats. That interior base will require a steel brush, etc, then primer and paint. I enjoy watching some of you guys with picture threads of perfect restorations, but my interest and budget will both live fine with a reasonable clean-up. Everything is intact and works perfectly, except that plastiChrome center of the dial.

For a $22.50 original investment, and probably more than that again in paint, it'll look far better than when it dropped rust on every step headed down to the basement.

I've been on repairclinic.com and one other site, downloaded grainy diagrams of all the different systems in that machine, all I need is that chrome center and elbow grease from lots of elbows! And I never go crazy with cups and cups of detergent, that oversuds crap won't come back and overflow again.
Thanks
Mark

 

[akronman]

Maytag belts

One question though-----belts look solid and fine shape, the agitator turns over very heavy loads, the spinning seems plenty speedy enough for average toploaders even when doing rugs and towels, and I've read various threads here about "belt clutch" and motor springs taking up the slack and designed to be loose, so:

Belts are looser than hell!!! That's expected? Is there a specific expected and measurable deflection, the way belt tension is measured? Like I said, she's running fine under any/all conditions I've loaded her up with yet!.

Thanks
Mark

 

[toploader55]

Hi Mark

Looks like we've got the same mess ! Eddie

 

[cfz2882]

loose belts

loose belts probably caused by a seized or stiff motor carrage
-might need "broken loose"and worked some to free it up...

 

[combo52]

MT BELT TENISON

The pump belt is supposed to be very loose the main drive belt is also under very tension but the motor carriage should move easily and the rollers should be intact. If it moves stiffly shout some turbine oil on the rollers and work the motor back and forth until it moves easily.

 

[alr2903]

Akronman, if it works well enough for you, its fine. If your planned installation will hide the sides, you might luck out and find a junker to get a front panel in better shape and the chrome plug for the timer knob. You mentioned drain tubs, was this machine in a basement? Your porcelain top is in great shape. I went to buy a sofa at an estate sale and brought home a fabrimatic small tub for $50. Enjoy your Maytag for what it is, it is evident that they installed some new hoses as you pointed out. So at least some maintenance was performed over the years. alr2903

 

[qsd-dan]

If the belts look ok, they're probably fine. When the belts have a lot of wear, they'll emanate a "whine" (particularly the pump belt) that can only be experienced, not described. Proper operation of the motor carriage is essential to a happy and properly functioning Maytag, so replacing the rollers and springs along with cleaning/lubing the tracks with poly lube (please, don't use turbine oil. It will attract dirt and can also work its way to the belts) is highly recommended.

Here's a genuine Maytag kit with rollers, springs, and poly lube for cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MAYTAG-WASHER-P...148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564159e25c

 

[akronman]

Maytag motor kit

Thanks QSD-Dan, when I saw the Ebay price of $2.40, I just hit the "BuyNow" key immediately.

You, and others, have been very helpful, and I'm having fun!

Mark

 

[akronman]

Maytag Lid Stop Switch

Like any good member here, I always undo the lid switch first thing so I can WATCH WATCH WATCH. BUT, it seems like the Maytag A608 has both lid switch and unbalance switch as one unit? If my investigations are correct so far, then I will be safer and smarter and not jumper wire around the switch, I will leave it as is and use my 1/2 clothespin "Excellence in Engineering" fix to be able to watch the action. Some expert please confirm this?

Also--thanks to Dan and Combo52 and alr2903 and other helpful folks----Motor carriage rollers, springs, poly lube are coming in the mail, but I checked already and motor moves easily approx 3/8 inch and springs right back. During cleanup and derust/repaint, I will most assuredly clean up the 2 part carriage and install the new kit, it looks easy, but for now all still seems well with belts/motor movement, etc

During continued watching while running and flashlight inspection with the front removed, it certainly looks like TONS of previous owner oversudsing went on for ages and ages, all down the sides of the outer tub. Now wiped clean and will stay that way, no inches of suds on top of water for me!
So, newer tub hose and fill hose were installed at some point, and no more excess suds, it now looks as though my horrid rust CAUSE is over and done, just needs cleaned up and repainted. Ummm, how dumb can some folks be?????

Still amazed at how perfectly well she operates with all that rusty damage through the years, takes a licking and still keeps ticking!

 

[combo52]

MT MOTOR ROLLERS

MT used an inferior plastic material for thier motor rollers and lid hinge balls in the 1960s and as a result all of the original rollers and lid balls crumbled and broke. They changed to a much better material in the 1970s after this time motor rollers no longer would break. Originally they thought the reason for the breakage was due to the fact they used regular petroleum grease on the rollers in the 1960s. So they recommended using only Polylube on the rollers which is better for plastics, and if you have Polyube handy I would use it. But turbine oil works just fine on any MT rollers that are still in use, we have been using it for over 30 years without any problems what so ever. Turbine oil will no more likely seep through the steel base plate of the washer and get on the belts than PL nor will it be anymore likely to attract dirt, sometimes I don't know where you come up with things Dan.

 

[akronman]

Maytag A608 partial restore

Well, when motor carriage parts arrived, I dug further into my A608-----wire brushed inside the cabinet, vacuumed, wiped down, dried overnight, then Rustoleum inside and out primer then 2 topcoats, but I put it all together again before I remembered camera, sorry no interior shots.

I continued washing clothes during some portions of this weekend project, seems to be 2 drops of water from the fill/water gap doodad every other load or so, I don't think that's the total breakdown of that cheapie plastic item I've heard tell of, so I just closed the top up and will ignore temporarily.
Anyhows, not at all a complete restore job, but very spruced up and no rust inside or out, new motor carriage rollers/springs/lube, 2 new tinnerman snaps for front, check up this thread for rusty before pics, here's 2 after painting. I still have half a can left, my guy has better eyes for color and will advise another coat or not.
There's tons better restoreres out there, I'm learning the task and sticking within a budget.

 

[akronman]

last pic

other side---and I still can't get pix to stay upright/clockwise/etc, sorry. Near the base, on both sides, looks better in person but not perfect, I think I'm getting grey floor reflections

 

[toploader55]

Looks Great

After the New Year, I have to get going on The Coppertone 606s.

Paint Job looks Really Good.

 

[fordtech]

Great machines. Under the hood they look the same for a long time, 8,10, and 12 series. There is a nice 12 series pair on Craigslist local here for 100 bux. I wish I had a huge barn just to set up a collection.

I had a 712 pair from 1985-2001 and wish I would have kept them. Just one minor no cost repair in 17 years.
Ive always wanted the center dial one just for nostalgia with a light up console.

 

[dianam]

Hello - My beloved A608 went out and the Sears Home Repair technician said the transmission and timer had to be replaced. Transmission would cost $726+tax = $800 + $450 installation + $200 more for gearcase and some other part. Subtotal $1,450 without the timer, which he said was no longer available.

Found the timer, with knob, on eBay for $113, which should be delivered next week, and watched a video on how easy it would be to install myself. Trying to find a transmission for less than $800. No success so far.

Just found a working A608 on Craigslist 500 miles away for $100. Trucking cost would be around $200.

Question: Does anyone here think I should get the used A608, or would you instead recommend this new metal Maytag produced in Maytag's Commercial Factory in Ohio?



Kirk Rivas, an appliance guy in Austin Texas, has uploaded SEVENTEEN videos showing the new Maytag MVWP575GW in action through entire cycles with the lid open. Looks like a great machine. Here is one of his videos:


Big box stores don't carry the new model. I've already ordered the new model from Designer Appliances, a dealer with 3 New Jersey showrooms and the best online price I found - $719 plus $119 shipping = $838. No tax. List is $899. Will take about 10 days to get to California.

But what about the used A608 500 miles away? Should I forget about it or get it and store in "just in case?" I am really, really fond of that machine. The only thing I like better about the new model is that it has a 17" basket opening rather than the 13 1/2" opening on the A608.

Thank you for any thoughts you might have. Love all the valuable advice and insights I've found from you experts here.

P.S. Akronman, the original poster, asked what year his A608 was made. His serial number ended in CX. Found a Maytag chart indicating C stood for 1978 and X stood for December, so December, 1978. Mine ended in EG = April, 1980.

 

[speedqueen]

I'm no expert, but I can tell you with assurance that an A608 would have far more cycle flexibility than the new Maytag. You actually get to select the water level on the old A608, the new MT has only two options, Full Fill and Automatic load Sense. If you have the space to store the new A608, I say get it, you have nothing to lose.

As something final to say, I have my doubts about what the Sears Technician said, in today's world, sadly, many service men just make up a bunch of rubbish just to get out of servicing an older machine.

What is exactly wrong with the transmission? If it is just leaking a little oil, you could probably get a few more years out of it.

 

[dianam]

Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what, if anything, is wrong with the transmission. Another repairman told me he found it suspicious that two parts would go out at the same time.

When the timer arrives, I'll install it and see if the washer works. If not, then there is probably something wrong with the transmission.

The young Sears repairman said the washer was older that he was. I didn't have a lot of confidence in him, but he was able to consult by phone with someone more expert than he is.

Would you still recommend buying the A608 I found on Craigslist?

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>DianaM:  Transmission would cost $726+tax = $800 + $450 installation + $200 more for gearcase and some other part.</blockquote> The transmission is sometimes referred to as the gearcase ... there's nothing else "gear"-related on a 608 other than the transmission, so seems a mystery what your servicer meant regards to the two separate items.  Maybe the tub brake assembly? (which may not be needed).

Your 608 has what's called a "pitman"-style transmission.  New replacements are NLA (but it can possibly be repaired depending on what's wrong).  The substitution is the newer "orbital"-style transmission which has a shorter/faster agitation stroke.  I find $238 at one online source.

 

[goatfarmer]

Price on the 608 is OK, but shipping is going to kill you. Road trip time?

 

[good-shepherd]

Just found a working A608 on Craigslist 500 miles away for $

If the "trans" is the problem, any helical drive, tall tub trans from a Maytag Dependable Care washer up to about the late 80's 12 series will swap right in.
No need to find another A608 for donor parts.

However, servicing the trans involves quite bit of work. Good news is you get to replace the stem/boot seal and tub bearing, two items that will wear out sooner or later anyway and may well be part of the problem.

Here is a nice A610 (or 710), could be used as is or for parts.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/app/d/maytag-washer-and-dryer-white/6446746874.html

 

[askolover]

That new "Maytag" ain't no Maytag!  Under the sheet metal it's all Whirlpool.

 

[dianam]

Very interesting A610 for sale, and at a great price! Not too far away, either. Thanks for the find.

Tried to install the timer I got on eBay, with knob that looks identical to the A608, but that eBay part is 2-4476-1, whereas mine is 2-04476-3. They're not alike at all. Looks like the 2-4476-1 is for model A606.

Would that even work in a model A608?

The first 2 photos below are of the used eBay timer 2-4476-1; the last 4 are of the original installed timer, 2-04476-3.

I'm not sure how to proceed, if at all. The new Maytag Commercial washer is on its way from New Jersey, and there is a working model similar to the A608 still for sale in a neighboring state.

 

[goatfarmer]

AFAIK, as  long as you have the same terminals on each timer, you should be good to go. The timers look like they were sourced from different manufacturers.

 

[combo52]

Maytag Washer Timers, Hi Diana The two timers you have are completely interchangeable, they are just made by two different vendors for MT, you just have to attach the wires to the same numbered terminals.

 

John L.

 

[good-shepherd]

Maytag Commercial washer is on its way from New Jersey

So you already ordered a new washer??

By the way, that CL Maytag is an A710 (one model below the TOL A810), my mistake.

 

[dianam]

Yes, I actually ordered a Speed Queen January 3, 2018, after being persuaded they were better machines and losing hope my A608 could be repaired.

Then I read the reviews on the 2018 Speed Queen. Oh boy!

Hadn't even heard about the Maytag Commercial MVWP575GW until I saw a comparison of that model with SQ on an obscure laundry company [Lyon Appliance] blog. The author said they were similar but gave the nod to Maytag.

Thank goodness the N.J. appliance dealer hadn't yet put it on a truck and was able to switch the order to the Maytag Commercial residential model. That company's prices btw were below that of other dealers on both models, and they had excellent customer reviews, so it was a no-brainer to buy from them.

Even having to pay $119 for shipping (Speed Queen pays for shipping, Maytag does not), I will be getting a $41 refund for what will almost surely be a better machine.

However, I'm not quite ready to let go of the A608 yet. Forum member SpeedQueen pointed out the Maytag won't have as much flexibility re water level or rinse temperature as the A608. The seller of the working A608[?] has been too busy to check the model and serial number so I haven't had to make a decision whether to buy that or not.

Today I spent 38 minutes on the phone with Sears Home Repair Servies trying to get a simple question answered: How much would they charge to hook up the new washer?

Unbelievably, they switched me to SIX different people, 5 of which could not answer that simple question. You would think I was asking for one of their complex remodeling jobs they touted in the on-hold advertisement - which was better than the 'music' that was so awful I had to hold the receiver away from my ear the rest of the time on hold.

Told them their technician I paid $99 to look at the washer left two belts and a substantial-looking part on my laundry room floor, that it was either theirs or he neglected to put it back in the washer. (He also left his cell phone behind, and I had to run after him to give it to him.) That stymied them but good.

Had to tell the sixth guy 3 different times about the new washer. "Is it new?" he kept asking. Asked if I bought it at Sears, I replied it's a Maytag Commercial residential model Sears doesn't carry. "We don't install commercial washers," was his reply. "Well, it's a commercial model for residential use." Poor guy, he was so confused.

I mentioned I had a coupon for 20% off Sears Home Services total parts and labor, good through 3/31/18. He insisted it was good only if presented at a Sears store. I read him the complete text of the coupon, which said no such thing. It just said to present to a technician and gave the code for the technician to enter. We went around and around on that. Then he claimed the repair had to be prepaid. I told him that wasn't the case when the technician arived for an appointment on 12/29.

I believe the belts and part the technician left on the floor belong on my washer. What would you do?

 

[good-shepherd]

I'd suggest cutting your losses with Sears, they already gave a questionable diagnoses on the A608.

Installing a washer is not a complicated job; Hot/cold water supply lines and the drain hose.
The hard part is lugging the machines in and out of the house. Any local handymen, plumbers or appliance dealers you could call?

 

[eryn09]

MAYTAG LA710 Washing Machine HELP!!!!

HELP! DOES ANYBODY OUT THERE HAVE A MAYTAG LA710 WASHING MACHINE???

A hole rusted in the wash tub!... And leaked everywhere and is out of commission. I was going to try to replace it BUT apparently they JUST stopped making the replacement part for the wash tub a few years ago for the Maytag LA710 machine!

...So we ended up getting a Maytag Bravos which is COMPLETELY USELESS and chews holes in ALL of my clothing even on the delicate cycles!!! It also does NOT get lint, cat hair, my hair, blanket fuzz off of ANYTHING!!! EVEN IF I WASH IT TWICE! I've TRIED EVERYTHING! It NEEDS to be set on fire and thrown off a very tall cliff onto sharp rocks...

HELP! I NEED MY MAYTAG LA710 WASHING MACHINE BACK!


Does ANYONE have one? Is ANYONE selling one?

Can ANYBODY point me in the right direction?

Please let me know!
I would greatly appreciate it!!

Thank you,
-Erin

Feel free to respond to me via email!
[email protected]

 

[good-shepherd]

Does ANYONE have one? Is ANYONE selling one?

Any large capacity Maytag washer tub (with bleach dispenser if needed) made from 1966 up to the point where they changed to a plastic tub cover (early 90's ?) will interchange with your A710 machine.

 

[combo52]

Hi Erin, are you looking to fix yours or looking for another washer ?

 

Unless your outer tub is really badly rusted in at least several spots the current tub may be able to be fixed.

 

John L.