Maytag A612 Won't Always Agitate

[tmadden]

Hello, I have a Maytag A612 washer that has finally developed a problem, it sometimes won't agitate unless I move the agitator in the tub just a bit by hand, then it will agitate just fine. First time it happened it burnt the drive belt, so I thought it just needed new belts. Put on new Maytag belts, it was fine for a few cycles, then again it wouldn't start to agitate , until I "helped" it a little, then it was fine again. Doesn't make any ugly mechanical noises at all, when it works it sounds fine. No water or lube leaks above or below the orbital transmission. Current plan is to lay it down on it's back and remove the cover from the transmission and have a look inside. Got some form-a-gasket to reseal the cover, and will drain old lubricant and replace. What should I be looking for inside the transmission? Or elsewhere? I'm not a washer repairman but have a backround in industrial machine maintenance. Thanks for any tips!

 

[qsd-dan]

Sounds like the upper bearing is seizing up, this happens when the center seal leaks water down into the agitator shaft.

You can test this out by removing the transmission belt and turning the transmission pulley counterclockwise. If it's stiff or difficult to turn, it's time for a another transmission or washer.

 

[tmadden]

Thanks, I just tried that, it seems to turn freely, after I overcome the inertia and it starts turning, it's not hard at all to keep it turning. Certainly not hard enough to slip the belt, it doesn't seem. Kind of hard to get a good feel for it though, without laying the machine back. My arm barely fits under there.

 

[qsd-dan]

There shouldn't be any inertia to overcome unless you're turning it the wrong direction (spin cycle). It should easily turn easily counterclockwise (looking up at the pulley from the bottom).

Might want to look into the motor carriage if the transmission pulley turns easily.

The motor carriage is responsible for proper clutching during the spin cycle as the spring loaded carriage moves forward from the initial torque of the motor starting and springs pull back once up to speed. The springs are also responsible for proper tensioning during the wash cycle. A really simple and ingenious design. When the motor carriage tracks get dirty and silicone grease dries out, it can get stuck or not fully move forward or backwards and burn up the belt. Also, remove the belt to the pump and turn the pump pulley by hand. It should turn easily and smoothly.

 

[tmadden]

Yes, my mistake, I was turning it the wrong way, got myself turned around. When turning the correct way, it's fairly free, then gets harder to turn, not real hard but a bit stiff, then fairly free again. Does that sound like the upper bearing is getting bad? Or something in the trans? I found out how the drive system works, initially I tried some generic belts, the main belt was a bit too short, it would agitate fine but when it went to spin there wasn't enough slip and the motor thermal protect would kick out. So, got the proper Maytag belts and now it spins fine, but sometimes it won't agitate. The pump seems fine, easy to turn that. There is a lot of grease on the motor slides, it moves easily. I bought the machine used about 10 years ago and I think it was serviced before he sold it to me. Do the springs get weak over time? Are there supposed to be 2 or 3? Thanks Again!

 

[tmadden]

I think the washer is fixed. Took the trans cover off, everything looked like new, including the top bearing. No evidence of water in the gear lube. Drained old lube and refilled with 1 quart 80-90, resealed cover with Permatex form a gasket # 2. Cleaned pulleys with acetone, belts are new. Added one more spring to motor carriage, had two, now has 3. Loaded her up pretty good with sheets, towels, jeans, shirt, misc stuff, full load, water level max. Agitated great, stopped it and restarted many times, took right off every time. Spin normal as well. If it keeps working like this, GREAT! Really dont want to buy new one, pretty sure I wouldn't like how they work thsese days, or how they are made.

 

[qsd-dan]

Adding the 3rd spring is generally a band-aid to cover up a problem. Cleaning the pulleys with acetone might have fixed it. The 3rd spring won't hurt anything but it causes the spin cycle to get up to speed faster than normal so out of balance situations might become a little more common.

It's worth removing the agitator and peeking at the agitator shaft and the stem seal. If there's rust around the shaft, it's days are probably numbered. Finding another orbital transmission isn't too hard, for now. May want to have a spare on hand for the future.

There's a 1/4" bolt near the bottom of the agitator barrel. You'll have to remove that first and the agitator will then pull straight up for removal. Do NOT overtighten that 1/4" bolt while reinstalling, it's kind of easy to strip out.

 

[tmadden]

Thanks for the advice. Though about getting a spare trans, I see some for sale. Didn't know though if parts are available if I take the tub out, like the nut and seal and bearing, I watched a video, I think those would be the parts needed? If I could get those I would and a trans too. I took the agitator out last night, yes, there is corrosion and some rust. Like you say, it's days are numbered. I think it was made in the mid to late 1980's, so it's remarkable it still works! Would like to keep it running for another decade! Looks like the damper pads it all rests are still doing ok, so thats a plus.

 

[qsd-dan]

The stem and boot seal was discontinued by Whirlpool last year. Hard to find the genuine parts now. There are some aftermarket stem and boot seals available that seem to be hit or miss but maybe some are not installing them correctly. The tub bearing is still available for now but probably not much longer. If you decide to use another transmission, save yours for the internal parts.

Your 612 was most likely made in 1989/1990 if has the orbital transmission as it debuted in July of 1989. It has had a great run and worth fixing if you're up to the task. Nothing made today will you the flexibility and control this washer does as the EPA has greatly limited those. Some are passionate about keeping a washer around and others don't care one way or another. It's up to. We are here to help you along if you want to keep it going.

 

[tmadden]

I would like to rebuild the machine. I like how it works, and I think with a rebuild it would be the last machine I need. If you could help with parts numbers, and maybe ideas where I might be able to find orig. stem and boot seal that would be great. Is this the correct part no. for the tub bearing kit? 6-2040130. I see those for sale, but not sure if its the right part.
What is the part no. for the stem and boot seal? Also, part no. for the nut on top, looks like those probably need to be replaced too? And part no. for a spanner wrench? Any other parts I should have for the project and their numbers? Should probably replace all internal rubber hoses too? Can the motor bearings be lubricated? Do the timers tend to last? Thanks!

 

[qsd-dan]

The last part# used for the stem boot and seal is 6-2095720. The nut comes with the kit, at least with the original ones. I have not used the aftermarket stem and boot seal kits but it should have a new tub nut.

6-2040130 is the updated part# for the the tub bearing is. The old one is 204013. There are several on Ebay for decent prices.

Spanner wrnech for the tub nut https://www.ebay.com/itm/3352781956...z0g52P+mQXxR8uURC97pN+3Bs=|tkp:Bk9SR7LLqs3mYw

There were 2 different orbital transmissions used depending on the tub size. You have the larger tub which is part# 206624 (original part#) later updated to 6-2097750. Try to find a used one that doesn't have rust around the agitator shaft. A little wear is fine but rust means water leaked into the upper bearing of the transmission.

There are some here who repair for a living and have spare transmissions available. Maybe they will speak up on this thread and help you out.

 

[tmadden]

Thank You!

 

[good-shepherd]

Here is a how-to thread with part numbers:

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520

OEM tub bearing is still available. Stem and boot kit you'll probably have to use the aftermarket version.

Ebay is a good place to look for parts.

 

[good-shepherd]

Spoke too soon, OEM stem and boot kit on Ebay, $40 shipped!

Better grab it fast.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[good-shepherd]

Correction photo shows stem kit but its just the tub bearing for sale, too bad.

 

[tmadden]

Had me excited for a minute there! But good find anyway, I made an offer on a tub bearing kit. Thanks for the thread link too!

 

[bpetersxx]

info

transmission locked on A806

can the agitator shaft seize so the transmission locks

ended up with a new shaft

 

[tmadden]

I'm in deep now! Have a very nice used trans with new looking rust free upper shaft coming, aftermarket stem seal kit, OEM tub bearing kit, OEM old style agitator stem seal, OEM tub gasket, an OEM lower lip seal for the trans, and a good used timer for a spare, all on the way. Still need to order spanner wrench, tubs bolts with washers, maybe some new hoses. Once I get everything I'll take the washer apart and do a rebuild! Should be set for life then if all goes well!

 

[DADoES]

 
Share photos of the rebuild.