scrubflex
Well-known member
The tub also wobbles and starts off unusually unbalanced at the beginning of the spinning cycles
Maytag A712 Is Making Skeeching Grind Noise At End Of Spins
- Thread starter scrubflex
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Two different issues
The screech as the tub stops is either a dry brake assembly [ try adding two tablespoons of transmission oil ] or if the lining is too badly worn you may have to replace the brake assembly [ if the noise brothers you ] the washer will keep working just fine and in fact the 2nd time you hear the screech you know its time to remove the clothing and put them in the dryer, LOL
The tub assembly moving around a lot at the beginning of spin may be normal, it may be that you are using too high a water level for the amount of clothing being washed or you could have a damper problem.
Keep in mind that MT DC washers did not have great suspension systems, they were about the only washer left that still had an unbalance shut-off and they needed it.
John L.
The screech as the tub stops is either a dry brake assembly [ try adding two tablespoons of transmission oil ] or if the lining is too badly worn you may have to replace the brake assembly [ if the noise brothers you ] the washer will keep working just fine and in fact the 2nd time you hear the screech you know its time to remove the clothing and put them in the dryer, LOL
The tub assembly moving around a lot at the beginning of spin may be normal, it may be that you are using too high a water level for the amount of clothing being washed or you could have a damper problem.
Keep in mind that MT DC washers did not have great suspension systems, they were about the only washer left that still had an unbalance shut-off and they needed it.
John L.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
The A712 series machines are going on 30+ years old. Time to open it up for some service.
Adding oil to the brake and lubing the damper pads is not that difficult and there is good how-to thread on it somewhere.
Adding oil to the brake and lubing the damper pads is not that difficult and there is good how-to thread on it somewhere.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Lghh...thanks guys, I think a new damper pad set is needed because there's black (powder) dust all over the baseframe...I just can't seem to level out the suspension springs
scrubflex
Well-known member
Well guys, I checked out the dry brake assembly...it was covered with black powdered dust...there was no rust anywhere...cleaned off and out old dirty grease from the bearings/housings...installed a NEW radial bearing...added plenty of new grease and oiled the brake assembly...I forgot 2 tablespoons and added one instead...NOW it's screeching during the entire spinning cycle...that's without clothes...I'm not a mechanic, so I learn from you guys and I step-by-step my fixes...again I still can not get the suspension springs to level off
good-shepherd
Well-known member
can not get the suspension springs to level off
What do you mean by "level off"?
What do you mean by "level off"?
scrubflex
Well-known member
Adjusting the suspension springs so the outer tub will stay positioned where 3/8" is extending outside the top (door) opening...currently the finish leaves the tub lop-sided (3/4") out at the top-side of opening
Just FMI, why do you think it's scheeching the whole spin cycle after all the greasing and oiling I provided the brake assembly
Just FMI, why do you think it's scheeching the whole spin cycle after all the greasing and oiling I provided the brake assembly
good-shepherd
Well-known member
why do you think it's scheeching
Sure its the brake and not the the tub bearing?
The black dust wasn't a good sign, where did it come from, brake or damper pads? Hard to center tub is a sign of a brake issue.
Sure its the brake and not the the tub bearing?
The black dust wasn't a good sign, where did it come from, brake or damper pads? Hard to center tub is a sign of a brake issue.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Okay, so I'll replace the brake system...since the brake assembly is underneath the damper pads I'd say the damper system because the black dust was all over the baseframe surface...however, there's no pads falling out of their position and it's still hard to move the tub around by the agitator, which I read is also a sign of pads going bad...another question, is water suppose to stay in the pump?...also, what other tool I can use to help me unscrew the motor because it's suck...I need something else to use with the 'allen' to remove it...I want to clean and oil the cage and rollers
Two different issues, Again
The black dust is worn aluminum from the damper dome and probably steel from the base plate, you will need another damper dome and new pads at a minimum to fix the damper. [ this is always when we advise our customers time for a new washer, but if you don't count your time it can be fixed with a lot of work ]
The constant screeching during spin could be one of several things but it is not likley the brake assembly, if it did not do it before the new radial bearing something is probably assembled incorrectly.
Water will always remain in the pump.
John L.
The black dust is worn aluminum from the damper dome and probably steel from the base plate, you will need another damper dome and new pads at a minimum to fix the damper. [ this is always when we advise our customers time for a new washer, but if you don't count your time it can be fixed with a lot of work ]
The constant screeching during spin could be one of several things but it is not likley the brake assembly, if it did not do it before the new radial bearing something is probably assembled incorrectly.
Water will always remain in the pump.
John L.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Thanks, so I take it that the wobbling during the spins...FAST or SLOW is caused by the damper system gone bad...replacing the damper dome is a really big job...hmm, I don't know
The damper dome is part# 2-3725, but is NLA
John L.
John L.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Thanks John, I'll find it...is there an easiest way of handling this job
scrubflex
Well-known member
Is it worth the work to replace the damper dome...I am interested in a new project...the combination of a Maytag LAT9806 and a A712...what do you think???
good-shepherd
Well-known member
combination of a Maytag LAT9806 and a A712...
That would work fine.
Parts can be salvaged from a the LAT machine over to the A712 and keep it original or convert to the orbital trans like "eurekastar" did with his A407.
Big job but not too bad for a motivated DIY'er and there are plenty of posts and vids available on the subject with all the needed part #'s
That would work fine.
Parts can be salvaged from a the LAT machine over to the A712 and keep it original or convert to the orbital trans like "eurekastar" did with his A407.
Big job but not too bad for a motivated DIY'er and there are plenty of posts and vids available on the subject with all the needed part #'s
scrubflex
Well-known member
What I love about from the LAT9806 model is the control panels Double Wash cycle for (grimy dirt), and Sensi-Care for (Hand Washables) cycles...the Mini water level selection for tiny washloads and the Extra Spin cycle option for longer water extraction time
...installing the LAT9800 (23 gallons) Big TUB that have Double Self-Cleaning (lint filter screens) combining that with the MIGHTY Power-fin agitator's Built-in (agitator lint filter) for a 'TRIPLE-Action' filtering system
...using the A712's 1/3 HP motor because of it's 'Give-In-Ease' ablilty that lessens wear and keeps the motor going strong...the Helical-Drive Transmission with the 180 degree ARC and 63 OPM agitating stroke...the Outer Tub and Mounting Stem and Seal because it WORKS...my DIY'er
BTW, I'm still looking for the 1972 GE Americana WWA8500N washer...hopefully in AVOCADO
...installing the LAT9800 (23 gallons) Big TUB that have Double Self-Cleaning (lint filter screens) combining that with the MIGHTY Power-fin agitator's Built-in (agitator lint filter) for a 'TRIPLE-Action' filtering system
...using the A712's 1/3 HP motor because of it's 'Give-In-Ease' ablilty that lessens wear and keeps the motor going strong...the Helical-Drive Transmission with the 180 degree ARC and 63 OPM agitating stroke...the Outer Tub and Mounting Stem and Seal because it WORKS...my DIY'er
BTW, I'm still looking for the 1972 GE Americana WWA8500N washer...hopefully in AVOCADO
Hi Harry, The tub capacity in the LAT9806 is the same 19 gallons as the A712, the motor and motor carriage design on the LAT9806 is also much better, it engages better for agitation while also allowing a better clutching action when pumping out water and getting up to spin speed.
I do very much like the versatility of the Electronic controls on the LAT9806 [ this was easily the best Maytag TL washer Maytag ever built ] machines about the only upgrade this machine needs is a 50 cycle motor pulley, beyond that the only real upgrade would be an electronic Lady Kenmore DD washer for the ultimate full fill top load washer experience.
John L.
I do very much like the versatility of the Electronic controls on the LAT9806 [ this was easily the best Maytag TL washer Maytag ever built ] machines about the only upgrade this machine needs is a 50 cycle motor pulley, beyond that the only real upgrade would be an electronic Lady Kenmore DD washer for the ultimate full fill top load washer experience.
John L.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Oh, okay...I thought it was smaller...it looks NARROWER and SHORTER than the A712's tub
...also, I thought the 1/3 HP motor worked better with the Power-fin agitator and Helical transmission because of the "give-in-ease" during the agitation
...I remember the LAT's had a stem and seal water leakage problem, could the A712's stem and seal be switched use for the LAT9806 washer
...my 2005 Whirlpool Gold DD "REDESIGN" washer tranny is done, I'm not going to fix it...want a new daily driver...Thanks a million for all your info and help guys
...BTW, John I used to live in Silver Springs, Maryland in Prince George's County
...also, I thought the 1/3 HP motor worked better with the Power-fin agitator and Helical transmission because of the "give-in-ease" during the agitation
...I remember the LAT's had a stem and seal water leakage problem, could the A712's stem and seal be switched use for the LAT9806 washer
...my 2005 Whirlpool Gold DD "REDESIGN" washer tranny is done, I'm not going to fix it...want a new daily driver...Thanks a million for all your info and help guys
...BTW, John I used to live in Silver Springs, Maryland in Prince George's County
Hi Harry, All two belt MT washers are helical drive, helical drive does not have anything to do with which style transmission is in the washer.
I never heard the term " give-in-ease " If its MTs term it was just a silly advertising slogan that did not last long or mean a thing, LOL.
Maytag helical drive washers had a lot of water seal leak problems starting in 1956 when they were introduced. They improved the design in several ways and by the early 60s they were pretty good through the 60s-the 70s, but by the early 80s they started to have a lot of problems again. One thing you can say for sure is that there are a lot more LAT models running along that have never had a seal leak than earlier models today.
PS I am glad to hear you used to live in this area, however Silver Spring Maryland is not in Prince Georges county, but rather Montgomery County.
John L.
I never heard the term " give-in-ease " If its MTs term it was just a silly advertising slogan that did not last long or mean a thing, LOL.
Maytag helical drive washers had a lot of water seal leak problems starting in 1956 when they were introduced. They improved the design in several ways and by the early 60s they were pretty good through the 60s-the 70s, but by the early 80s they started to have a lot of problems again. One thing you can say for sure is that there are a lot more LAT models running along that have never had a seal leak than earlier models today.
PS I am glad to hear you used to live in this area, however Silver Spring Maryland is not in Prince Georges county, but rather Montgomery County.
John L.
