scrubflex
Well-known member
Guys I'm replacing the brakes, the grease that is black, what kind of grease should I replace it with?
Maytag A712 New Brake Assembly
- Thread starter scrubflex
- Start date
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MT BRAKE ASSEMBLY
There is just one brake assembly and the grease should be black after its used a while. I believe the new assembly comes pre lubricated if not you can use an once or two of very heavy gear oil at least 90 weight in it. I have almost never seen a brake assembly go bad in a MT washer, some tub indexing during agitation is normal [ and probably desirable] under heavy loads. The main reason I have replaced brakes in MTs is when the lining is worn through and you can hear the screech a block away when it stops. Even then you can often put some more oil in it and keep using it.
There is just one brake assembly and the grease should be black after its used a while. I believe the new assembly comes pre lubricated if not you can use an once or two of very heavy gear oil at least 90 weight in it. I have almost never seen a brake assembly go bad in a MT washer, some tub indexing during agitation is normal [ and probably desirable] under heavy loads. The main reason I have replaced brakes in MTs is when the lining is worn through and you can hear the screech a block away when it stops. Even then you can often put some more oil in it and keep using it.
scrubflex
Well-known member
I have white lithium grease, can I use that? I started cleaning away the old grease.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Dan...
since heavier grease is needed, apply extra lithium?
since heavier grease is needed, apply extra lithium?
scrubflex
Well-known member
Dan
I'm referring to the helical drive shaft and spline.
Do I also need to add a little extra Maytag Transmission Oil to the brake for spills during shipment?
I'm almost finish re-installing the new brake package. I just need this info.
I'm referring to the helical drive shaft and spline.
Do I also need to add a little extra Maytag Transmission Oil to the brake for spills during shipment?
I'm almost finish re-installing the new brake package. I just need this info.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Dan
Is there anything I can do about the agitator's "off-center" agitation stroke?
Is there anything I can do about the agitator's "off-center" agitation stroke?
Do I also need to add a little extra Maytag Transmission Oil to the brake for spills during shipment?
If you have some on hand, it would probably be a good idea. If not, try running the machine without adding anything and listen for any noises when the brake engages.
Is there anything I can do about the agitator's "off-center" agitation stroke?
I find this problem to exist with the 12 series machines only due to the fact that those agitators use a 1/4 screw on the side, and tightening it tends to shift the agitator off center. Installing a stop ring and earlier style agitator would probably be your only choice to eradicate that problem.
If you have some on hand, it would probably be a good idea. If not, try running the machine without adding anything and listen for any noises when the brake engages.
Is there anything I can do about the agitator's "off-center" agitation stroke?
I find this problem to exist with the 12 series machines only due to the fact that those agitators use a 1/4 screw on the side, and tightening it tends to shift the agitator off center. Installing a stop ring and earlier style agitator would probably be your only choice to eradicate that problem.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Hey guys, when I rotate the brake to re-install the transmission turns as well. I don't think this is supposed to happen. The transmission is rotating.
scrubflex
Well-known member
I've run into a terrible problem, I strip the open of the holding key and screw. I cannot secure the brake, the screw will not set in place. I'm SCREWED!!!
scrubflex
Well-known member
...I stripped the opening of the...
Naw, not screwed, just a little more work ahead of you 
You can still purchase a new lower damper assembly, you'll just have to remove the suspension bolts, hoses, and pull the entire "tree" out of the base. Hell, might as well put on a fresh set of damper pads while you're at it
Before removing the spring bolts, count the amount of exposed threads at the bottom of the base and write down how much are exposed for each of the 3 bolts. This will give you a good reference when reassembling.
Good luck and keep us updated!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Maytag-203725-D...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0833e5f5
You can still purchase a new lower damper assembly, you'll just have to remove the suspension bolts, hoses, and pull the entire "tree" out of the base. Hell, might as well put on a fresh set of damper pads while you're at it
Before removing the spring bolts, count the amount of exposed threads at the bottom of the base and write down how much are exposed for each of the 3 bolts. This will give you a good reference when reassembling.
Good luck and keep us updated!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Maytag-203725-D...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0833e5f5
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
scrubflex
Well-known member
I have to buy a new damper assembly? The screw still works, just not the holding key. I thought it would be as simple as replacing the holding key part. That is a big job.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Well, when I lay the holding key in place, then try to screw it in, the screw will continues to turn, not grasp and tighten. The opening of the key looks shaved. The key also looks a little bent. Could it be the brake is not set in deep enough or is not lined up evenly. Do you know the holing key part number?
scrubflex
Well-known member
duh...
...will continue to turn...I need glasses.
...will continue to turn...I need glasses.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Yeah, I can tighten the screw alone but, not with the holding key in place.
STRIPED SCREW IN DAMPER ASSEMBLY
This type of problem is easy to fix take the screw to an auto parts and they will sell you a Helix-coil kit which is used when threads become striped. You may also be able drill it out to the next size larger and re-tap the hole. This is not a major problem to people who actually repair things everyday PS if you go to the auto parts store don't tell them you are fixing a washing machine, if they ask tell them its from a mini-bike or something.
This type of problem is easy to fix take the screw to an auto parts and they will sell you a Helix-coil kit which is used when threads become striped. You may also be able drill it out to the next size larger and re-tap the hole. This is not a major problem to people who actually repair things everyday PS if you go to the auto parts store don't tell them you are fixing a washing machine, if they ask tell them its from a mini-bike or something.
scrubflex
Well-known member
If the screw is stripped then how am I able to screw and tighten it. I'm not able to secure the screw when I try to install the holding key with it. I see that the hole has enlarged...so much that when I place the screw in the hole I can move it back and forth.
scrubflex
Well-known member
The hole in the holding key (retaining clip) has enlarged. The holding key screw still fits correctly with the damper assembly (screw) hole. There isn't any thing wrong with the damper assemby hole. I'm just not able to use them both together.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Sorry, Dan and John. I wasn't clear-minded... had a hard time for moment accepting the damage I've done to the washer.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Join the club...
Anyone who's worked on Maytags for any length of time has boogered up a damper at least once. Like I said in the email I sent you, the most common way is for the head of the bolt to snap off leaving the majority of the bolt frozen inside the damper. Oh yeah... Cuss words coming... Customer wondering why it suddenly got real quiet in thelaundry room and you're just sitting there banging your head against the washer... Not fun.
BUT, not the end of the world. You could even use a donor damper from another Maytag from the 06's up to last production ever.
RCD
Anyone who's worked on Maytags for any length of time has boogered up a damper at least once. Like I said in the email I sent you, the most common way is for the head of the bolt to snap off leaving the majority of the bolt frozen inside the damper. Oh yeah... Cuss words coming... Customer wondering why it suddenly got real quiet in thelaundry room and you're just sitting there banging your head against the washer... Not fun.
BUT, not the end of the world. You could even use a donor damper from another Maytag from the 06's up to last production ever.
RCD
scrubflex
Well-known member
Thanks again RCD.
Harry
Harry
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