Maytag A806 Question

[d-jones]

I just picked up a Maytag A806 washing machine in harvest gold for my parents yesterday. It's in pretty good shape overall, but will need a thorough cleaning and possibly a new water level switch assembly. Here's a picture of the current switch. The problem is obvious.

 

[d-jones]

The parts manual identifies the switch as pn 205336. But all of the switches with that number have different wording on the push buttons like the one shown here. I'm assuming this is a newer replacement. Is it still possible to find either the switch or just the push buttons with the same wording as the one currently installed?

 

[d-jones]

Here is the bleach dispenser fill port. Note the rust stains.

 

[d-jones]

And here is the source of the rust stains. The lid is like this all the way around. If anyone on this blog should happen to have a rust free lid in harvest gold that they are willing to sell I would be interested in buying it.

 

[d-jones]

Finally, the parts manual frequently refers to 'original series or series 00' 'series 01' and 'series 02'. Based on the washers configuration in comparison to parts manual illustrations, I'm thinking it's an original series. That being said when it comes to ordering parts knowing what you have is usually rather important, so I'm hoping some of the more knowledgeable Maytag fans on the blog will clue me in if I'm wrong. The serial number for this washer is 766623SU. Hopefully that will help clear things up. I'll post some better photos later this week when I get it apart for cleaning. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[kenmore71]

Look on the actual model plate and see what series it is. Looking at the your pictures, I would guess it's in the 01 series. Does it have a tub light? The configuration of 4 water levels and the water temp switches to the right of the center dial tells me that it's a post Feb 1969 model. Also the fact that it still has the "timed" bleach dispenser on the right side means that it is before March of 1975.

If you post the actual serial number there are a number of folks here who can actually tell you the exact month and year that your machine was produced.

 

[kenmore71]

Sorry, I see that you posted the serial number.

I'll get "my people" on it.

 

[d-jones]

Thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately as you can see in the photo below the series number space on the data plate is blank.

 

[swestoyz]

September, 1973. The pressure switch from the auction would be a functional equivalent to the one in the machine - same function, slightly different button labels.

Ben[this post was last edited: 10/30/2011-23:46]

 

[d-jones]

Jeez! What a doof. I forgot to say that yes it does have a tub light, though it seems to be burned out at the moment. Here you can see the lens installed in the lining at the top of the tub.

 

[kenmore71]

OK, my people are "on it" as I mentioned.

The lack of a series number means that it is most likely a late 00 series.

That means that it had Permanent Press, 4 water levels, 4 speed selections, Tub light, & timed bleach dispenser. Initial guess would place it between 1970 and 1973.

It is entirely possible that someone might have the button that you need to fix your water level selection switch. The best contact for that would be COMBO52. His first name is John and he has quite an inventory of such things.

 

[d-jones]

Thanks for the advice Mark. I just sent COMBO52 an email. Do you think he might have the lid as well?

 

[beekeyknee]

Maytag Info

Swestoyz is right- September 1973. You have a series "0" machine. You should have the front panel chrome strip, blue and grey plastic timer dial, probably a 4499-1 Mallory "scritching" timer, edge shaded front panel, and permanent press cycle on the dial.

If I were you I'd try to save the lid if it's not too far gone, if you want the color to match right. Many times when you switch lids the color will be a little different and look weird. You can pull off the lid, sand down the rust spots with emery paper or a small emery wheel on a Dremel tool, mask off the good areas of porcelain, put on a thin coat of JB Weld and rub it thin and smooth with a wet finger, let dry for at least 24 hours, color match the paint and have it put in a spray can, spray a couple of light coats to seal, and put it in a small hot room or chamber to cure. Be careful with the heated area. Don't burn your house down.

If the ball hinge indentions are rusted, you'll have to be careful not to use too much JB Weld or paint in them or the balls may not snap the lid back on because of too much build up.

That's what I'd try to do. Especially if the top of the lid looks ok. If you can find a donor lid that suits you, go for it. Other wise I'd try and restore it. FYI- Leaving the lid open after the laundry is done will help stop the rusting problem.

Looks like you've got a big job ahead of you. Good luck.

 

[54monroe]

The set of four buttons is still available. Part # 205339.

 

[d-jones]

Let me start by saying thank you to swestoyz, Kenmore71, Beekeyknee and 54monroe for taking the time to respond and helping me determine just which machine I have here. The physical description of the washer provided by Kenmore71 and Beekeyknee are completely accurate right down to the chrome strip on the front of the cabinet. So now I know that I have a series 00 washer manufactured in September of 1973. The advice regarding the rusty lid is particularly useful, especially since I hadn't considered the possibility of mismatches in color.

Now I have a question about the buttons referenced by 54monroe. I see that several different online vendors list the set for sale but in each case they're a special order with no returns. Before I place an order that I'll be stuck with I'd like to find out if these buttons match the ones installed on the washer or do they match those on the replacement switch assembly shown above. Does anyone here know? Ordinarily this probably wouldn't matter but I'd like to maintain a totally original appearance if I can.

 

[beekeyknee]

Buttons

I'm pretty sure the buttons are interchangeable with the switch and different panel styles, but since I don't have my series 0 yet I can't say with absolute certainty. Maybe someone with experience with all the series can give you a definitive answer.

Something I thought about concerning the lid on a 0 series washer. If you get the tub light going and you leave the lid open to dry the inside of the washer when not in use, the tub light is going to stay on all the time.

I have made a wooden shim the exact size to fit between the lid and the cabinet top to watch the washing action when I want to. I made it about two or two and a half inches long and sanded it smooth to protect the porcelain. One could even give it a paraffin coating for extra protection. You could use this to keep the tub light off and the lid up when the washer is not in use. I assume the light would continue to burn with the lid up and the washer in the off position. Some food for thought.

 

[kenmore71]

The tub light only lights when the lid is up AND the cycle dial is pulled out.

 

[combo52]

A806 TUB LIGHT

Yes Mark is absolutely correct those thrifty folks in Iowa would have never made a washer where you couldn't leave the lid open to dry the machine out and force you to leave the light on. WELL at least until the right wing management took over and started to make all types of bad decisions in regard to product design and they brought us the wonderful [ moldy ] Neptune's where you could not leave the door open without leaving the light on, even Westinghouse figured this one out on thier FL washers. This to me was just one of many signs that MT was losing thier way.        And,

 

If WP doesn't start emphasizing and building higher quality appliances again and get thier service and parts prices under control they could lose thier market position also. The mighty do fall.

 

[beekeyknee]

Tub Light And Dial Pulled Out

Thanks for the information, fellas.