Maytag A806 Washer water leaks

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rainislandman

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Oct 18, 2008
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I'm still a neophyte, but I have finally replaced the tub seal and tub bearing in my 1970 era washer. I still have water leaking, which I suspect is from the outer tub top cover seal. It seems to leak when I have the washer on it's large load setting, and the washer is into an active spin cycle.

Before I open up my washer again, are their "tricks to the trade" in making the top cover seal waterproof, short of using a lot of silicon seal caulking.

thx
 
Just get a new top seal. They're less than $10 and easy to install. If you need silicone to make it watertight, you're doing something wrong!
 
Tub seal terror

Is the new tub seal NOS? Did you recently buy it? The old seals have a "press fit" center seal, the new ones are permenetly attached to the mounting stem. Open the machine and find the leak. The reason i bring this up is because i had SOOOO much issue when they redesigned the tub seal. It came down to having to sand the agitator shaft to get the "newer" seal to work. The shaft would get pitted and rough, and would not seal. This was not an issue with the old seal because of how it seated against the shaft.

Hurry and find the leak. If its just the tub cover, then you will have it fixed in a snap with minor adjustment or a new gasket as previously suggested. But if it is still the new tub seal, you will want to get it faxed ASAP. It only takes a minute to trash the tub bearing with a water leak.
 
This was not an issue with the old seal

This is why I use both when rebuilding a washer! You can use the old style mounting stem center seal with the new style stem. Double the center shaft seal!

RCD
 
combined old and new style...

RedCarpetDrew, do you have the part numbers for the old style mounting stem center seal and the new style stem set?
 
further to the

Thank you all for the responses ......

The parts I used were MayTag Genuine Factory Parts, a Mounting Stem & Boot Seal Kit, part # 22204012 and a Tub Bearing Kit, part # 204013.

When I finally got the old Mounting Stem and Tub Bearing removed, I carefully cleaned up the agitator shaft, paying special attention to where the Mounting Stem seal would fit around the agitator shaft, cleaning with sand cloth to remove all the old crud and soap. I have run about five washes through, and just noticed today that it was leaking through the tub seal when the agitator was running through the wash cycle.

I think that I had the newer style, as the seal was a component part of the mounting stem and was not as tall as the original mounting stem

Other than re-sanding the agitator shaft, is there anyway that I can re-grease with whatever sealing lubricant to ensure a seal.

I would like to avoid having to install another new bearing kit.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

thx
 
Double the center shaft seal!

RedCarpetDrew wrote

This was not an issue with the old seal

This is why I use both when rebuilding a washer! You can use the old style mounting stem center seal with the new style stem. Double the center shaft seal!
_____________________________________

Thank you for that advice. It took a few re-readings and some checking in order for me to understand.

Was the old seal part number A4298 or Y0A4298 , now be replaced by 6-0A57420?

Would it mount directly on top of the new style stem?

Can I repack the new style stem with some sort of waterproof lubricant to replace whatever has been lost?

Would I have damaged the bearing in any way with less that a half dozen washes large washes?

thx
 
Im curious to here this too. Its been a few years since i have, worked on anything out side of my brands. As i remember, there may have been room under the new mounting stem. After the problem was discovered, i would sand real good in hopes it would seal. The only other fix was to replace the tranny, but i know you dont want to do that because the machine would not be the classic we know and love. Unfortunatlly, this "new" mounting stem is only good for about 4-5 years. It was a repair that got to be so expensive with P/L that alot of customers would not fix the machines. This was another example of Maytag on the way down in the late 90's

Sad to see :(
 
Double the seal, double the pleasure...

Sorry for the time to get back to you, I was out with a back issue... Mmmm Perkoset... LOL

Yes, that is the old agitator shaft seal. You put it on the shaft first, then you install the new mounting stem on top. You can add a little grease to the inside of the old style agitator seal (like trailer wheel bearing grease but not too much) if you want as it already has a little thick grease already in it. The stem with it's new lip seal will compress the agitator shaft seal down much like the flat washer did on the OLD stem. Works like a charm. I doubt you did any real damage to the sleeve bearing but if you're concerned, pull it and clean it.

RCD
 
Double the seal, double the pressure...

RedCarpetDrew, being that the new style stem lip design already compresses the agitator shaft down like the flat metal washer, could you TRIPLE the pressure sealing strength by adding the actual 'retaining washer center seal' on top of the agitator shaft seal?

If so, would this add similar staying life to the stem seal like the older style?

The retaining lock ring would be the only part that is not used with the new style stem seal.
 
I'm not sure if the compressing washer can be used with the new style stem as it MAY deform the built in lip seal, possibly defeating the purpose. I've never tried it. But, there's only so much room there for add ins before the stem won't mount properly. I'll stick with my tried and true for now as the lip seal does an ok job by itself and does even better with the addition of the old style agitator seal.

RCD
 
...deform the built in lip seal...

My thought was the lip seal didn't look so thick, thus allowing enough space for the missing compressing washer. Have you ever wondered if you can pry loose and remove the lip seal. If possible you may be able to imitate the older style stem seal and rebuild it with the removed parts. I'm I way off? I plan to make a Maytag LAT9806 and A612 combination washer my daily drive and I don't want this to become a future problem.

I DON'T WANT TO WASTE MONEY with this project that is why I'm trying to find out all the inormation I can about the subject.

I'll replace my current Whirlpool Gold washer with a LAT9806 old DEEP tub, long and slower stroke dependable drive transmission, hot-rod Maytag.

Please share your wisdom with me about my ideas.
 
I've just used the new stem combined with the old style agitator shaft seal and (knock on wood) have had no issues with it so far. I've not gone and tried to mangle the new style stem like you're suggesting as they are just pricy enough that I have no wish to possibly ruin one just for an experiment. I suppose you can try and let us know...

RCD
 
tried to mangle the new stem like you're suggesting...

It's an idea I had from examining photos of the stem. My intention would definitely not be to 'mangle' the stem seal. I couldn't know for sure because I don't have any to play with. But, after carefully comparing the old and new stems from pictures in my Maytag Automatic Washer Service Manual and the internet, I see it just wouldn't work.
 
Double the seal, double the pleasure ......

RedCarpetDrew wrote: You put it on the shaft first, then you install the new mounting stem on top. You can add a little grease to the inside of the old style agitator seal (like trailer wheel bearing grease but not too much) if you want as it already has a little thick grease already in it. The stem with it's new lip seal will compress the agitator shaft seal down much like the flat washer did on the OLD stem. Works like a charm. I doubt you did any real damage to the sleeve bearing but if you're concerned, pull it and clean it.

..........

When I first noticed a "leaking" issue after my new Bearing Kit and Stem Seal repair, it was all the liquidized sealing grease/water spots spattering on my floor in front on the washer without the front panel in place. It seemed that in a warm water wash, the factory sealing grease simply melted and flowed down from the new stem seal and out through the new bearing kit.

As the bearing is most likely a bronze "self lubricating" bearing, I will pull it apart to clean it to ensure any contamination does not impair it's function.

Then I will follow RedCarpetDrew's instructions, now that I have the replacement WhirlPool seal (#6-0A57420) for the older style Maytag seal (#Y0A4298) on hand, by installing this new "older style" seal on the agitator shaft FIRST before re-mounting the "newer" style stem seal component.

My question now is will a grease "like trailer wheel bearing grease" liquefy as did the factory sealant, which seemed to be neither heat nor waterproof.

I am presuming that "like trailer wheel bearing grease" is the kind of grease you would use for saltwater immersion boat trailers, being, thick, waterproof, heat and corrosion resistant.

Other advice I received was to use a non petroleum product synthetic white grease, which would be both heat and water resistant. Any suggestions in this connection.

Sage advice sought ........ or am I finally getting it right?
 

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