Maytag Brake Package Assembly

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Diagrams and part numbers

The link below has the diagrams with the Maytag numbers on them. Unfortunately, the online store uses their own numbers. However, if you search for the Maytag number it will bring up the part (automatic cross reference.)

You are lucky that the diagaram is available online for your A712. My old '61 A700 does not have any diagrams available online. From what I can tell, the only Maytag diagrams available online start with the 1966-on "06" series.

http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=A712&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1
 
The brake assembly (spring) is supposed to HOLD the washtub and transmission in place where it CANNOT turn...I can move my tub in either direction with no problem...at the same time the tub stops in 6 seconds...the correct amount of STOP time...what GIVES?
 
Tub turns

Are you turning the tub itself or the transmission pulley?

My A700 tub stays put when the machine is off if I try to move the tub by hand. The transmission pulley however will turn by hand. One direction will move the agitator and the other will turn the tub.
 
Does anyone know what parts the brake kit contain?

RCD had one apart about a year ago and I just remember a big spring and a VERY small thin layer of brake lining material that wrapped around the edge. It's amazing (to me anyway) how long that minuscule amount of brake material holds up and lasts for decades. Around the mid 90's, Maytag got smart and realized that nobody was rebuilding brake packages anymore so they started producing a sealed version.

You couldn't pay me enough to rebuild one of those with that spring wound up over 200 ft pounds, even with the specialized tools. Just get a new one from partstore.com. They have the best prices for brake packages I've seen anywhere on the 'net.
 
M T BRAKE ASSEMBLIES

These brake assemblies are very durable the only reason I have ever replaced one is if the lining is completely worn away, it will make a loud screeching noise that can be heard 200 hundred feet away when it stops spinning. If you have one ofthe older screwed together assemblies they can be safely dissembled with caution but there is little reason to do so as I drought you could get replacement parts for it. To dissemble you need some { C ] clamps and bench vice to release the tension slowly. it just has a simple compression coil spring inside there is nothing wound up that will go flying as it unwinds. The brake on MT helical drive washers takes from 5 to over 10 seconds or more to stop the tub from full speed spin depending on the load size. In fact the brake on MTs are too weak to meet Underrighters laboratory standards as the early 1980s thats way when they introduced new models that needed to meet the UL standard they had to get creative. The electronic stack LSE 1000 for example they had to add a lid lock on it . On the regular line they added a second lid switch with a fuse wired in series with the inlet valve to disable the washer should the primary lid SW fail in the closed position. This actually made no senesce but they convinced the good folks @ UL that it made the washer safe with a week brake. They later abanded the 2nd lid sw and fuse thing but never really improved the brake. WP beefed up the stopping power of thier BD washers in the early 1970s by adding stronger springs to the clutch assembly to meet ULs standards Gordon would probably know the exact year.
 
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