Maytag DE-500 dryer

[sudsmaster]

The number plate doesn't say, but I'd be willing to bet that the 1700 watts connection is for 20 amp 110 volt circuits only.

1700/110=15.45 amps. This is within the 20% margin of error normally allotted to such circuits. In other words, on a 20 amp circuit, 16 amps maximum would be allowed.

On a 15 amp circuit, 12 amps or 1320 watts would be the 80%maximum for any single appliance. Some appliances may say they draw 1500 watts but that is usually an overstatement or the maximum on startup - a temporary draw. For example, I just bought a small all-metal "utility heater" for sticking under my desk at the shop. The tag says it's 1500 watts. But I stuck it on a watt meter on high and it draws just a little over 1300 watts.

This is probably also why 110 volt American front loaders' heating elements are generally limited to 1000 watts - any more would mean that the motor would not be allowed to come on during heating (as is or was the case with the heated Speed Queen front loader) because that would cause the appliance to exceed the 80% safety figure.

 

[mrcleanjeans]

the cut-off date

How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?

 

[sudsmaster]

How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?

I wondered the same thing. Until I rewire the power cable, my guess is that one can just open the door to stop the cycle, and then select another button. Or, perhaps, one can just select a different button for a different dryness level.

There are only four selections: Regular, Wash 'n Wear, Damp Dry, and Air Fluff. Probably all most people need anyway.

I suspect there is an internal adjustment for just how dry the load will be before the machine stops the drying cycle. I'll find out when I tear the thing apart for cleaning. There's a monetary incentive so to do: I can hear coins rattling around the base when I tip the machine, lol.

 

[gansky1]

Congrats on the new dryer. It is a beast of a thing and you'll be shocked at how much wasted space there is inside the cabinet - the drum could have easily been two inches or more larger!

With the electronic control Maytags, it's dry or damp. No adjustments. There was an additional resistor available as a service "correction" for those who complained about wet seams of denims, etc. that merely extended the "over-run" with heat after the electronic control sensed that the load was dry. I think this came later though, my DE906 had this added.

 

[goatfarmer]

Yup, open the door to cancel the cycle. I've noticed Maytag dryers are usually good for about a dollar or so in change!

kennyGF

 

[sudsmaster]

Greg,

Thanks for the info. In this dryer, would I be correct in assuming that the heat enters via the slots in the fins, and exits via the lint filter at the rear of the drum? If so, this might help explain why the cabinet is so much bigger than the external drum - there would have to be another enclosure around the inner drum to contain the hot air (ergo, "Halo of Heat"). Still, it does seem to be rather porky, lol. Just from what I can see from looking in the rear vent hole, there's a lot of real estate in there.

The thing also is not light. It's got thick sheet metal and a lot of it. Much heavier than my Neptune 7500 dryer, or an earlier gas WCI number. Still, the solid base allowed me to rest it on a furniture dolly, so I can roll it around the shop as needed to make way for other projects.

 

[gansky1]

Actually, the element is around the front of the drum. Heat enters through the small holes around the door opening. The wire-wrapped baffles in the drum are the moisture sensors. These are connected to wires and a carbon brush at the back of the drum which rides on a "slip ring" connected to the electronic control unit.

 

[appnut]

Dryness level

I know later Electronic Control dryers D806 & D906 said to use the W'n'W button for heavier loads or loads which needed a higher degree of dryness instead of the regular fabrics button. Incidentally, the dryer just has two heat levels--heat and air. Aside from degree of dryness, the W'n'W button also had a longer cooldown. On regular, I believe once the dry level was met and the button popped out, the dryer shut off. Same with Damp Dry. Air fluff I believe was either a 10 or 15 minute cycle.

 

[sudsmaster]

Greg,

Thanks for the drawing. Very nice. Do you have more on the innards of this dryer?

I knew that the copper coils are for moisture sensing. I guess I got the idea from my first look at the machine that there were slots next to the coils as well. It's not easy to tell ... pretty dark inside that drum, and the door opening is almost Euro sized.

The fact that the heated air entered just behind the door would account for the somewhat baked state of the door gasket. Any idea where I could get a replacement?

Bob,

Interesting that the Wash 'n Wear button got things drier than the Normal button. Since all my stuff is basically wash and wear (I haven't ironed anything in long time), that's the one I'd use if I used this dryer on a regular basis.

 

[DADoES]

IIRC, as explained by Tomturbomatic, WnW or PP heats to 165°F *after* the dryness sensing is done, for purpose of "ironing out the wrinkles." I've noticed PP on my DE906 runs longer than I expected. Last time I used it, I checked the load after it had run a while and the cabinet was very warm. The load was completely dry and considerably heated. Not knowing how much longer it "wanted" to run, I simply hung the items to cool and they came out quite nice. I'd be leery of running heat-sensitive items, though.

 

[sudsmaster]

Thanks, Greg. When I get the thing fired up I'll see if I can use the remote thermometer to measure the drum temp during various cycles.

 

[bajaespuma]

Hey Greg,

Do you have a similar diagram for an HOH gas model? Very curious.

 

[qsd-dan]

Any idea where I could get a replacement?

There are many parts still available for these machines as they cross reference to many different halo of heat models up until 1975.

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Maytag/Maytag/DE500/Maytag/Maytag/314077/New.aspx

 

[sudsmaster]

Thanks much for the link to the boot part. I'll take the part number to my local parts dealer and see if they can get it. The part online is $8 with $8 shipping. If not I'll order two online - always good to have a spare.

 

[sudsmaster]

The Good, The Bad, and the Not So Ugly

The good news: the door gasket part number in the link, 314077 was available down the street at the local parts house.

The bad news: They brought out the part in the factory Maytag bag and it's quite a bit different from what's on the dryer. In fact I don't think it would work at all.

The Not So Ugly: The parts store looked up the original part number, and its replacement, but said that neither are available. They did say it's possible someone might have old stock. The original part number is 311015; the replacement is 312231. So far I haven't been able to locate the part on the Internet, though. The Not So Ugly part is that the door gasket on the dryer isn't torn and will probably last a few more years.

 

[gansky1]

Maytag dryer door seals --

Crap. I forgot to post this about the door seals. After some research on the door seals a while ago, I found that all of the door seals for the Halo-Of-Heat are NLA but there are still a scant few places to look for them. Try Larry at Modern Parts in Parma, OH (216)661-6966.

For our future reference:

Highlander door seal: 312231
Deluxe models: 302448
'06 series: 312238

 

[qsd-dan]

Damn, sorry sudsmaster! I guess that site isn't very accurate on cross referencing parts.

 

[qsd-dan]

Well, here are some possibilities

http://www.partadvantage.com/store/showpart/10598611

 

[qsd-dan]

A ridiculously expensive possibility

http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.com/Store_SearchResults.aspx?ST=BP&S=312231&submit=Search

 

[sudsmaster]

Dan,

Thanks, I ordered the one from the first link.

Hopefully it will be the correct one

 

[sudsmaster]

The Plot Thickens

Got this in the email this morning...

"Thank you for your order. However we regret to inform you we have had
to cancel your order because it is No Longer Available from the
manufacturer. We're sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused you."

:-(

 

[surgilator1]

cooppertone twin in atlanta

I have the same model maytag in my basement that is matched up with a coppertone A700 washer. my first vintage pair and i am so proud of them! i still don't know how to override the buttons to stop the cycle so i just leave the door open.any advice on how to correct this? the top of the dryer is not porcelin(sp?) and is scratched up some(not bad though). you will get good service from her. i do wish the console lit up like on my washing machine though.
steven k.

 

[sudsmaster]

Stevenk,

A lighted panel would be nice, but I have to say that the center emblem is what caught my eye - with its 40's era lettering.

I still have fired this one up... waiting to get a new power cable (the current one is a bit scary). Does yours restart if you close the door? Have you tried to push two buttons at once so that none are fully depressed? Don't know if that would work, but it might be worth a try.

An owner's manual would be cool!

 

[maytagbear]

We had the similar...

DG-502.

I loved it. Quiet, quiet, quiet.

Yes, to stop it before the cycle ends, you open the door. Close the door and poke a button to re-start. Air fluff only runs for 10 minutes, which is a bother if you're not there to re-poke.


Clean the vanes/paddles with a lightly damp terrycloth towel for best results.

On ours, the end-of-cycle was a lovely chime. My current LDG9806 has a nice repeating (five) chime.

I love real Maytag dryers.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[newguy88]

Is this still on?

Hello everyone. I’ve recently moved into my late uncle’s old house, and he has this exact dryer! I’ve been searching all over the internet trying to find any information on taking it apart and repairing it. Not sure if this thread is still active enough for anyone to see it, but I could certainly use some advice. Thanks!

 

[qsd-dan]

What's the problem with it?

 

[goatfarmer]

Pretty straight forward to work on

 

[maytag85]

Since I’ve worked on mine before, not all that bad to work on. Getting to the high limit thermostat or heating element is a little involved since the cabinet has to come off the chassis, but honestly it’s not as bad as some make it out to be. While you have it apart, might as well give it a good cleaning and oiling.