Maytag DE806 Dryer Trouble Starting

[hobbyapocalypse]

I see a few threads dealing with this dryer not shutting off but mine has trouble starting.

When I try to push the knob in to start, the solenoid immediately tries to engage, which of course breaks the circuit, so it just makes a bloodcurdling racket as long as I press on the knob. It does the same thing on all 4 settings. If I pull one of the wires off the solenoid it seems to start as normal but I didn't let it run for more than a few seconds.

This dryer has the bar baffles, but I don't know whether it has the newer SCR electronic control or the reed switch. I'm thinking there is a problem with the electronic control sending a signal to the solenoid at the wrong time, but I'm having trouble understanding the schematic and what I should check to pinpoint the problem. So I hope someone can offer a suggestion. Thank you,

Joseph

 

[lowefficiency]

Hi Joseph, a few quick questions:

1) Was the dryer previously running fine, and this is a recent change?

2) Does it show the exact same behavior regardless of which mode is selected on the dial? (Damp Dry, Permanent Press, Air Fluff)

3) Have you checked everywhere for any loose connectors that might be shorting out?

 

[hobbyapocalypse]

1) The dryer has been working up until now but I have been running it manually -- generally on the Regular setting for about 6 minutes, then on Air Fluff until it stops, which by then the heat is dissipated and it's blowing cool air. I didn't like the clothes coming out warm as they did when I ran it on Regular until it stopped automatically. So I'm not sure if the electronic control works properly.

2) Yes it would not start on any of the 4 settings.

3) The only wires I looked at are the ones under the top cover. They look okay except for the blue wire on top of the control module. The connector feels very loose and it looks like it's been that way for a very long time because the metal of the terminal connector is bent out of shape. I can actually pull it out with the little cover still in place.

I will get a better connection there and let you know how it goes. Thank you for the reminder to check all the easy things first!

By the way, do you know if it's a good idea to lubricate the solenoid? The armature feels like it binds a little and I notice sometimes the bell doesn't ring when a cycle ends.

 

[DADoES]

 
Am I recalling correctly that the cool down shut-off thermostat on halo-of-heat units is 120°F?  If so one can expect the items to be "warm" at end of a drying cycle.

 

[hobbyapocalypse]

The cool-off thermostat

according to the manual it should open, and stop the motor, at 120°F, that's correct.

 

[combo52]

Non-Starting MT Electronic Dryer

 Check the capacitor for shorts and try replacing otherwise Replace the little control board, I have seen them do this.

 

John L.

 

[hobbyapocalypse]

Capacitor checks out, not shorted. But when I removed the little cover/retainer over the wire terminals on the control board, I found at least 3 more that were loose. So I'm feeling confident that this is the problem.

One of the goofy little wire terminals broke when I tried to make it fit tighter onto the board, and I didn't have any replacements so I thought I might just solder all the wires to the board as I see others have done.

Then I thought it would be cool to use a PCI slot as a connector to plug into the board like in the picture, but it seemed like too much work to remove it from the motherboard and attach the wires to it. I wonder if anyone has ever tried this.

I found a wire terminal like the originals but just not as flimsy and it fit good and snug, I just need to find some more. I'll keep you posted.

 

[swestoyz]

Edge board connector

Starting with the 08 series dryers,Maytag wised up and used an edge board connector for the electronic control board, and sold the edge board/capacitor as a kit with the harness. The 10/12 series dryers have the same approach but use a different harness due to the different start/control switch arrangement.

I imagine something could be fashioned up to "solve" for this problem using an edge board for the 06 series dryers.

Ben

 

[lowefficiency]

Soldering jumper wires from the circuit card to a simple spade terminal block would also be a nice cheap "permanent" fix that would really firm up those connections.

 

[combo52]

Soldering The Wires Directly To The Board

Is something I have been doing since the 70s on MT ECed dryers, especially on gas 06 dryers where the cheap little brass terminals corroded and cracked very easily from the constant burning pilot fumes.

 

John L.