Maytag DG606 Prematurely shuts down despite incomplete drying

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

wmjpate

Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Chicago, IL
I need help for my 1974 Maytag DG606 gas dryer which prematurely stops with a chime despite the content being still wet. The vent is clear and I serviced the unit a year ago with new belts, cleaning and oil and greasing. I really just want to fix it .... not replace it. Help!

wmjpate-2021060211073501011_1.jpg
 
I can think of

two possibilities...... The sensor might need to be scrubbed with a lightly damp terrycloth, or the grounding may have gone wonky.

Our DG502 had the sensors in the vanes, my Dependable Care's sensor was underneath the door opening.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
I need Additional information to identify the issue

I'm not sure what component you are speaking of, So I'm attaching the original Schematic from the back of the DG606 and a viewable url .... kinda, parts list. Maybe from it you can see where the component resides in the unit. Then, can you identify which item is the one you are speaking of? I really was thinking it was likely a series of temp sensors, like one of the ones I am also sending a pic of. Thank you for your quick response.

Bill


wmjpate-2021060213531905066_1.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_2.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_3.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_4.jpg
 
I need Additional information to identify the issue

I'm not sure what component you are speaking of, So I'm attaching the original Schematic from the back of the DG606 and a viewable url .... kinda, parts list. Maybe from it you can see where the component resides in the unit. Then, can you identify which item is the one you are speaking of? I really was thinking it was likely a series of temp sensors, like one of the ones I am also sending a pic of. The unit will run for approximately 10 to 25 min max. Thank you for your quick response.

Bill


wmjpate-2021060213531905066_1.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_2.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_3.jpg

wmjpate-2021060213531905066_4.jpg
 
I have a Maytag DG606 I converted to a DG306 since I didn’t feel like going through the trouble to diagnose the problem and literally was my only functioning dryer at the time in 2019 and has been working great since I put a 306 timer in.

I suspect the constant burning pilot light could be playing a role in not allowing it to shut off since it has corroded most of the wiring inside and I would also look at the wiring while you have it all apart.
 
The unit shuts down prematurely

I don't know how the standing flame would be involved. The burner extinguishes when the unit prematurely shuts down. Your idea of replacing the timer is plausible as it has a funky behavior and really doesn't appear to control the temp. Pushed, it simply starts the unit up. The dial doesn't seem to function as designed. See image below. I have know other idea what would be triggering the premature shutdown and I cannot find any moisture sensor or such that might be the culprit as the gentleman with the DG502 indicated.

wmjpate-2021060215175203062_1.jpg
 
Troubleshooting

Your DG606 likely has two metal bars on each of its drum baffles. Those are the moisture sensors being mentioned. I have attached a couple of pages from the service manual for the Halo of Heat dryers. I'm assuming that your dryer is heating but just shutting down prematurely (let us know if your gas valve is not creating a flame at all during the drying process.)  If my assumption is correct, then there is likely a problem in the electronic sensing circuit which could be caused by an open baffle circuit or improper grounding. You will need to get a multimeter and check for continuity from one of the baffle sensors, through the slip ring and brush and back to the electronic control board (see Dryer Shuts Off Too Soon With Load section on page 2 below.)  It could also be that one of the wire connections to the control board has broken off  due to corrosion caused by the ever-present pilot light. If that is the case, it will need to be re-soldered.

maranoman-2021060216022704627_1.jpg

maranoman-2021060216022704627_2.jpg
 
 
Your dryer does not have a timer in the traditional sense.  It's controlled by a moisture sensor system.  The metal bars/strips in the tumble baffles are the sensors.  Damp clothes touching across the bars completes a low-voltage electric circuit that registers a moisture hit to the control and keeps the drying cycle running.  The knob is a circuit selector for the electronic control, that's why it doesn't turn during the drying cycle or have an Off position.

Damp Dry runs for a lower dryness level.

Heavy/Permanent Press continues to run after the hits ease-off until a higher target temperature is reached (I think that's the difference vs. Regular) via a separate thermostat, to iron-out wrinkles ... and thus is also appropriate for heavy items such as jeans.

Tumble continues without heat after drying is complete until a cool-down thermostat shuts off the motor circuit and rings the bell.

Air Fluff does run without heat for a fixed time, possibly 10 mins.
 
WOW! Thank you all!!! GREAT INSIGHT AND FEEDBACK!!!!

WOW, THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH, especially Maranoman and DADoES, for your detailed information and how the system works. Very clever those engineers. I Had no idea this was called the "Halo of heat" dryer. In response to Maranoman's question, the burner unit works as engineered and I actually have replaced the Burner Tube - Part # 1245820 Mfg Part # Y302544 about 7 years ago.

We have owned it since 1978 when we purchased from a neighbor who was selling her home to move into my mother-in-laws apartment building about 50 yards away. She took our apartment and us her dryer and washer. Now I Regret getting rid of the matching washer. LOVED it's lint catcher and function! Haven't seen one as effective since.

Anyway I have some vocabulary questions. Tumbler baffles? Those are the components within the drum that tumbles the content, correct? So I need to open the unit up, and investigate the continuity of the circuits found as part of the construct of the baffles. Am I getting this right? AGAIN great feedback and detail.

Bill
PS, will keep you advised how it goes.
 
Pictures of Components

I’ve included some pictures of some of the components mentioned in the service manual in my previous post.

Pic 1: Electronic control
Pic 2: Baffle with metal moisture sensors
Pic 3: Selector switch
Pic 4: Brush enclosure
Pic 5: Zoomed out shot showing brush enclosure on slip ring

Other things to check - make sure all of the wire connections to the electronic control (pic 1) are intact and not broken. They are very thin connections and prone to corrosion and breakage. If any of them are broken, they will need to be soldered directly to the board. Be careful with the brush enclosure. If you remove it for any reason, be aware that inside of it is a small spring-loaded brush that rides along the slip ring as the drum rotates. Be careful removing it as the spring and brush will fly out never to be seen again if you’re not careful. Also search this forum for Halo of Heat, HOH, DG606, premature shut down, etc. and you will see that you’re not alone with your Maytag HOH electronic control drying issue.

maranoman-2021060221044606708_1.jpg

maranoman-2021060221044606708_2.jpg

maranoman-2021060221044606708_3.jpg

maranoman-2021060221044606708_4.jpg

maranoman-2021060221044606708_5.jpg
 
Advice for R&R'ing the Cabinet?

Any "tips" for R&R'ing the cabinet shell, control panel and top surface from the tumbler and base? I have R&R'ed the rear panel to gain access to cleaning, lubing and replacing the belts on the unit but never needed to proceed beyond that. Obviously I can figure it out on my own but advice is accepted from this end. Thank you all again.

Bill
 
Removing Cabinet

You will need to remove the wires from the motor, the thermostats, and the yellow wire connected to the slip ring.  Take pictures of the wiring first so you get it all back together correctly. Then remove the screws connecting the bottom of the cabinet sides to the base. Then you should be able to lift the cabinet and top cover up and over the blower housing and away from the base/tumbler. 
 
The HOH dryers I’ve worked on and serviced are my Maytag DE306 and a Maytag DG606 that I converted to a DG306 since the electronic dry control was being screwy and wasn’t shutting off at all and has worked fine ever since I converted it to a 306 dryer.

Even if my Maytag DG306 has been working great with no issues I’ll have to disassemble it soon to grease or oil the main drum bearing along with fan and tensioner shaft to have a quiet dryer in operation.
 
What do you guys do with a stable of dryers???

I get it if you owned a laundromat but without timers and a coin box that wouldn't be too practical. Or do you have motels, service camps washing and drying kids clothing or is it strictly a love for such units? :)
Bill
 
Is the HOH model brush assembly that rides on the drum avail

As identified in the topic, is there any availability for finding the brush and brush assembly for my HOH dryer? Just take a look at the image and you'll understand clearly the problem. This appears to be why the unit has been operating erratically. Any help in this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

wmjpate-2021061111395607014_1.jpg
 
Back
Top