Maytag E2L

[mis-t]

I read Larry's thread and had to join this group.

My Maytag was my grandmother's, is doing the same thing with the pulley that is connected to the PU that Larry's was doing (stopping after a certain point, but I can spin it the opposite way without it locking up). I am going to have to take a look under the hood (so to speak) and need to find out where I can get the proper seal and gaskets... I called Phil's # and sadly he passed away 3 months ago. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[e2l-arry]

MAYTAG PARTS

Hello - That's sad news about Phil. He was so helpful to me and a lot of others. Another resource for me was Dave Harnish. You can try his website DavesRepair.partsquick.com or email [email protected]. I don't have a phone number but if he still has his website maybe you'll find ti there. It's been about 8 years since I've been in touch so I hope he's still around and healthy. He too was always very helpful.

When mine was freezing up, I opened up the power until and found some small pieces of metal that had chipped off the gear. These pieces would float around in the oil until sooner or later one of them wold get between the gears and lock them up. Turning to pulley in the opposite direction and they would dislodge. Freeing up the movement of the gears until the jammed again. I ended up swapping out the power unit with one I found on Ebay. Also an excellent source for old Maytag parts.

If you can't swap out power units you could probably just thoroughly clean out the unit, removing any old metal fragments and refilling it. There's really not much to these parts. Nothing you'want to tear into anyway. That's why back in the day, Maytag repairmen would swap out Power Units rather then rebuild one for the customer.

Good Luck!

Larry

 

[mis-t]

Maytag information

Thanks, Larry, I will look into that. Your thread was very helpful to me and I was glad you documented it. I thought that maybe the piece that got lodged into yours may have come from a rusted part of the tub that may have found its way in there.

My aluminum tub is in great shape. So my thought was that water is getting passed the tub gasket causing oil to run down the inside leg. (Maybe that is not the same oil I put in and it is the other grease that is breaking down.) It started last year when it would seize up and the belt would spin and luckily I was right there and able to unplug it right away.

This year I did 3 loads before it seized and I was getting oil leaking from the vent hole and down the inside the leg.

I put in 90 weight oil in the vent hole and was able to wash 3 more loads before it seized again. I emptied out all bad oil (thicker than Hershey's Syrup and messy). Put in approx. 8 ounces (which in my reading, should have been 12 ounces?)

Did 3 more washes and it seized, so something is going on in there. I plan on using a Dremel to see if I will be able to cut a slot in the top of the brass gulmites and use a screwdriver to remove them. Then replace them with stainless steal bolts instead. Do you know if there are seals around the gulmite bolts?

Also, are you still using your Maytag?

 

[e2l-arry]

Motor siezing

No, nothing for the the tub itself can make it into the power unit. Something broke loose inside the unit itself, hopefully just a small chip out of one of the gears. It circulates around in the oil until it lodges between the gears, locking it up. You're going to have to get inside it to check it out. You're going to need to anyway because you can't add oil back in through the vent hole. It's one way, out only. It's doing what it was designed to do. Remove excess fluid due to the increase in fluid volume caused by a water leak. The water leak is through the agitator seal. If it were leaking between the tub and power unit or one of the bolts the water would leak onto the floor. Phil sold replacement hex bolts and they did have rubber gaskets on them.

Good luck removing the gulmite bolts. I bought a Gulmite wrench I found on line and that did the trick. I was done with it so I gave it to a guy in need here 2 years ago or I'd give it to you. So yes, when you replace with hex bolts use some sort of gasket.

Yes, I'm still using my Maytag. Not as exclusively as I used to. Sometimes I just take the easy way out and use my front loader. But I used the Maytag more in the summer when I hang clothes outside. The wringer only removes about 75% of the water a high spin automatic does. And that seems inefficient to put those clothes in an electric dryer. But if they take an extra hour to dry on the line, who cares?

Let us know your progress on Grandma's washer or if you have any more questions. I'm glad my post helps!

Larry

 

[mis-t]

Thanks Larry

I appreciate your input. That gives me a better understanding of how the PU works. After I had drained the oil and believed I could put it back in the vent hole, I am guessing the unit is dry now.

Well, I hope my adventure into this won't be as hard as yours was.

Thanks again!

 

[mis-t]

Oh, I just thought of something, you said the oil has only one way out (you would know).

My curiosity would be if I ran that pulley backwards enough, could that possibly
pull the lubricant into the power unit?

 

[e2l-arry]

No

Reversing the pulley direction would't work as a vacuum to pull oil back in. On the other hand I doubt your power unit is empty. These units can run a LONG time with very little oil in them. You'll see when you get in there. As long as the few moving parts have a coating of oil on them they won't ware. You'd have to run it for years possibly before all the oil was displaced by water. You'd get to the point where you have water running down the left rear leg and I've never seen that. By then that parts would rust and it would lock up for good. These were made/forged out of iron. Like a cast iron skillet, if it's unseasoned, no oil coating and exposed to water, it will rust almost immediately.

 

[geoffdelp]

Hi Mis-T and E2L-arry ... you can still buy new parts for your Maytag wringer machine. See the link below.

These are Amish-made parts and are quite good. I bought a replacement wringer head for a Model E or J; unbelievable! I'm like a kid in a candy store looking at their website; so happy to have found it!

They also have the service manuals available online.

Enjoy!

Maytag Wringer Washer Parts - Self Sufficient Living - Home Goods

Your source for old-fashioned, hard-to-find vintage non-electric products for off-grid survival, back-to-basics sustainable self-sufficient living.

www.cottagecraftworks.com

 

[e2l-arry]

WOW!

Hey Geoff! You're right. This is a GREAT resource for parts. I noticed the tub repair ring for $23.10. Just what I needed when I first got my leaky machine. Luckily Dave sold me a new tub but this part would have been easier and cheaper.

Tanks for the link and nice hearing from you.

Take Care - Larry

 

[geoffdelp]

Great Site ...

Hi Larry ... good to hear from you, too! I've reached out a couple of times about that website to individuals who were struggling to find parts, advice, etc. The last time, a person posted here about an N2L; surprised that no one responded. Oh well!

I've watched some YouTube videos on people using these machines and just cringe at the abuse! The biggest issue is not enough water and then overloading. Those machines were meant to be used with a full tub of water and not be overloaded. Instructions were/are pretty clear. That's probably what happened to yours; it was overloaded so much in its previous life that when you got it, it had already suffered damage to the gears. Those are lifetime gears; pretty hard to bust.

You are also right that it was easier for Maytag service people to send wringer heads and power units back to Maytag to be rebuilt and replace them with either new or used. Replacing the gears in the PU is tricky and the thrust adjustment is really difficult to do. Same thing with rebuilding the wringer head gears; I've only done it a couple of times and it was so, so difficult! The Maytag plant had all the right tools and equipment to quickly rebuild.

I bought a whole replacement wringer for a Model E/J from Cottage Craft Works; I couldn't be more happy! Expensive, but it was worth it to me. Wrings really tightly and I haven't taken the cap off to see what they did; doesn't appear to have oversized roller holders but I do notice a large washer on the lower roller to the right next to the drain pan cam.

Amish people still use wringer washers exclusively and the supplier to Cottage Craft Works is selling quality parts; especially the drain hoses and seals. Pretty impressive. Glad they are there and hope they keep doing it! They also have a lot of other cool things. Reminds me of Lehman's Hardware, but Lehman's has a lot more items. Still great, though.

Take care ... Happy 4th!!

Geoff

 

[launderess]

Have a copy of service manual for Maytag wringer washers, and yes it tells servicemen best to send entire wringer heads and power units back to factory for repair. That or best sell or whatever customer a new one, then send damaged units back or something.

Amish Maytag repair service we use said one of the most common bits of abuse was things that were too thick being put through wringers. The machines can handle blankets, quilts and other thick things, but there are limits.

What probably happens is people get hold of a Maytag wringer and assume machine can handle anything thrown at it; while that is true to an extent again there are limits.

Thing people don't get about wringer washers in general is that yes, they are a great way to plow through tons of laundry quickly. But you have to respect capacity requirements. Maytag is quite clear on this; you fill washer, start agitation, then add items only long as there is free circulation.

 

[mis-t]

Thanks everyone for your input

I only plan on getting into the PU and see what is going on. I was there when it seized and unplugged it immediately. I was able to free pulley and need to figure out what is causing it. We have 6 of the Gulmite bolts out and are haveing more difficulty with the ones that are set deeper. I have some messages on FB and may have a few leads on tracking down the tool for the last two bolts.

Tub is removed and I am putting things in my cart at the Cottage Craft Works that Geof provided. Thanks, Geoff!

I don't plan on doing anything with the wringer and it's components as it has always worked great with no issues. I have it off for now as it is easier to work around while I'm cleaning up the oil and working on getting the top plate off. I cleaned around the two remaining bolts and have cleaned around the other small remaining screw and have WD-40 on them (hoping that will help.

Will keep my thread updated as I go, but we are having some pretty hot weather this week. Also have a hotwater heater that needs replacing and gardening to do.

 

[mis-t]

Yeah! We got the last 2 gulmite bolts out!

After soaking the last 2 stubborn ones with WD-40 and CLR, cleaning around them and making the slot a bit deeper, they finally gave loose. We were also able to get the small screw out by doing the same. I now have a little CLR around the place where the top plate and the PU meet.

After laying it face down, the pulley is free again. So I'm anxious to see what the issue is inside the unit. I will grab a big flat head screwdriver and do the tap, tap, tap after I stand it up again.

 

[mis-t]

Some pictures to show the work in progress.

I though I would post these and I can get to work on the Power Unit. I got the PU plate off and am draining the oil. Will update with pictures of that soon.

1. Is the inside of tub with gulmite bolts.

2. Is the inside of tub with 6 of the gulmite bolts removed.

3. Is the tub removed.

4. Is the underside of the tub.

5. Is the inside of the Maytag with the tub removed.

 

[mis-t]

Center plate is off

Man it is gunky in there! I'm not sure of the age of this machine. but my Grandma bought it new and my older sister remembers her using it when she was 9 years old, but it could be older than what she remembers (she was born in 1956, so + 9 would be 1965).

It is a Maytag Gyrator Serial # 37757VL I tried looking it up, but didn't find anything and I am only curious, but it would be nice to know.

 

[e2l-arry]

June 1964

Mine also ends in VL - I used a chart I found somewhere in here that told me it was manufactured in June 1964. Mine is S/N 38615VL so just 858 units after yours. They're practically twins!

 

[mis-t]

Thanks Larry!

That puts it in the ballpark my sister remembered.

Okay so more pictures.

1. - Inside the power unit. Very dirty

2. - Red outlines where there is some damage to the teeth and the blue show something which appears to be rubber?

3. - Underside of the PU plate, the red shows some sort of rubber hanging out of a hole.(I am thinking it is a piece of the deteriorated water seal.)

4. - Shows what a magnet picked up that was outlined in blue above.

 

[mis-t]

So anyone know

In the 3rd picture in my last post what that rubber piece is? I didn't see anything like that in the manual for a part like that. Also, when I started to clean it, it just fell out and the hole that was there was gunky with the same type of rubber.

 

[e2l-arry]

??????????????

I have no idea what that rubber piece was but there should be no rubber parts in the power unit. I looked at my old center plate and mine just has an empty hole where yours shows that piece hanging out of.

Maybe if Geoff sees this he can help? I remember a rubber plug. It was long and tapered. You pushed it through a hole, pulled it down as tight as you can get it then cut off the excess, flush to the surface, with a razor blade. I can't remember exactly where that went or it's purpose.

Chipped teeth, just as I suspected! When those little pieces circulate between the gears, it locks up. Turning the pulley backwards makes them fall out. Then it runs freely until one of the little buggers gets caught again. It would seem there's enough contact even with the chips to run properly. If the tooth was damaged enough or missing completely the would sequence would change and I assume just lock up for good. So I think you'll be okay just cleaning the thing out, get any metal and rubber debris out of there. I'd check on line, Ebay for another power unit just in case. That's what I did. I still have my original power unit but don't know if it's any good. I just swapped it out.

You'll definitely want a new agitator seal. Inexpensive and easy to replace. Does yours have the original black agitator? The newer aqua colored ones have an upgrade to them to help keep water away from the shaft. It's just a cup-like feature that works as an air gap so the shaft has minimal water exposure during use.

I'd clean it out with de-greaser or brake cleaner from the Auto Parts store. I used soap and boiling water, probably not the best choice but I coated it down with a generous dose of WD-40 so it wouldn't rust.

Looks like you're making good progress!