Maytag E2L

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Yeah it is strange

I am finding this fascinating though. I cleaned it up with brake cleaner.

The rubber plug you are referring to was the replacement idea for the little screw. We were able to salvage the one that this one had.

Everything is original on this machine except for the hose. I cleaned out the little pieces that broke off and what was mashed into a few of the grooves of the worm gear (I used a dental pick).

The gears are not affected by the minor damages and it operates as expected. I am waiting for a few more parts and will have it together soon.

I didn't know the new agitators had that feature, that is a brilliant idea. I still have the original black agitator, I wonder if they sell just the cup feature separate and can be adapted to the old one.

My Grandmother always removed the agitator and cleaned machine. I just followed what she had always done, so mine has never gotten fused on.

Thanks to your very detailed thread, I learned so much!

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Hi there!

Hi there,

Did you leave the transmission on the machine when you opened the cover? I'm thinking of opening up my mom's N2LP to check on the oil situation. I tipped it over to clean out the water drain and let a lot out through the vent hole... *before* I found this site! The service manual says to take it off entirely to disassemble it. But I don't want to do that. It would help my decision if I know I don't have to take it off completely. If I do I might just leave it.

Thanks!
 
Hi Althus

I did not remove it from the machine. I worked on it from the top. I too didn't want to create too many variables when working on older machines.

I laid it on it's side to clean the power unit and let most of the bad oil drain out of it, then cleaned it with brake cleaner. Worked wonderfully.

If you do it this way, I would be sure to have the leg with the horizontal thingy that goes to the wringer on the top (when it is on its side) that way you won't be getting dirty oil coming out the vent hole.
 
Althus

If the oil that leaked out is the color of mine above, there is most likely water getting into the PU.

So if you plan on cleaning out bad oil, I should have also mentioned that I lined a small box with plastic and newspapers to collect the oil, so it wouldn't get all over the inside of the machine.

You can find new gaskets for these machines, but I made my own from cork.
 
Hi Mis-T; you're doing a great job! My concern about the missing teeth would be that the pinion drive would "jump"; maybe causing more damage. I have never experienced that! Could that be from washing too many heavy items over a long period of time? Those were casted parts and were tough. I would think about replacing that worm gear; but boy, is that a booger! You have to pound out the rod and adjust the thrust. Uggh ... wonder if the Amish supplier for Cottage Craft Works does that? They have full replacement units, but for a few hundred bucks! Larry's right; watch on eBay for a cheaper PU.

That is correct; that's a rubber plug that is the replacement for a tiny lead screw and washer that Maytag used to finish the seal of the center plate to the PU. Needless to say, probably because of environmental issues, Maytag stopped using lead in/on their appliances (remember, too, Maytag used to MAKE all of their own parts; they had smelting capability). Larry is right, you are to push it through from the top and then lop it off with a razor blade to flush to the center plate. You can buy the replacement rubber; comes in about a 4" strip.

Replacing that water seal is a must, as well. Very easy to do. The agitators that Maytag used prior to the turquoise ones, still do an effective job of keeping the water from the center seal. When pushed down all way over the stop ring, it created a "vacuum" and Maytag had a breather hole near the base of the agitator to make it easier to remove. I cringe when I see videos of people allowing the agitator to pop off the agitator post when washing; that whole area gets exposed to too much water. People just don't realize, I suppose. They didn't know you could easily replace the stop ring to get the agitator to stay on its post!

The turquoise agitator has a built-in cup for the area around the stem; it isn't something you can buy/install separately. Never remove the agitator until all the water has been drained from the tub. Also, you shouldn't spray the stem or center seal to clean it; just the area on the center plate called the "sediment zone". That was one of Maytag's feature! All the dirt/gunk gets trapped down there during washing so you can just flush it down the drain. :-)

althus ... if you tipped your mom's N2L over and had a lot of oil/water run out of the right angle drive, you really don't have a choice but to remove the tub and pop that center plate off the transmission to see how much oil has escaped. At that point a "flush and fill" would be a great idea to get it to last another 50 years! These machines should only be tipped on the front ... where the "Maytag" decal and the agitator start button is.
 
Thank Geoff for your response

I don't see any jumping happening in there when I turn the pulley. Now that the pieces are out of there and the worm gear is free of debris, it appears to be working smoothly.

I'll see when I get the rest of my parts and get it back together. If I do have to replace it then it won't be as difficult as before as I am using the Hexagon stainless steal bolts.

I have used the machine since the mid-80's. She has done a lot of loads and I usually do small loads then bring them into my automatic washing machine to do the rinse and spin. That way I can just keep washing and washing.

Not too particularly fond of the turquoise agitator as my wringer has the red release bar. My black agitator has a chip on the top, so water can easily get to the water seal. I maybe should try some Flex Seal to patch it.

I read on another thread that the seal can also be purchased here: https://www.appliance-parts-experts.com/WP6-0A57420-Washing-Machine-Agitator-Shaft-Seal_p_4970.html
 
Hm, yeah that's actually another question I had

Whether I should order gaskets online from cottagecraft, or make replacements. By my understanding there are two that I'd need, the tub seal, and then the transmission cover gasket. Your cork one is A-OK? What are you going to use for the tub seal?

Also, some people on here have said to use 90 weight gear oil, while others have said you can still get actual Maytag oil. Any thoughts on that?
 
Althus

I had an experienced mechanic check it out and said the cork will work just fine.

The seal that is between the tub and machine seems to be fine. I cleaned around it and as a precautionary will probably use a fine bead of Silicone Sealant and let that cure. (I wash outside so if it leaks badly, I will replace it).

I am going to use 80W 90 Weight Gear oil. I will start with 12 ounces.

I haven't tacked the gasket down yet, as I am still cleaning the PU cover.

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Wow ... that cork seal looks mighty professional! Bet it works just fine. I would think that 90 weight oil will work well; 12 ounces should be just about right. As the worm gear moves back and forth, it pushes oil up through the opening on the bracket to well lubricate the gear and the pinion gear.

Good luck ... it looks like you are almost done!

You'll have to prowl around the Internet and see if you can't find yourself a replacement black agitator with a good spline. I lucked out once and found a black plastic agitator, made with the same material as the turquoise one, with a good metal spline. I've hung on to that baby; very nice. Maytag didn't make them but for a short period of time before they switched over to the turquoise. Mostly, the red and black agitators were bakelite. They made them the same color and material as the automatic ones. I've got an original aluminum one; weighs a ton! I'm afraid to drop it!

Have fun; you'll have to send a photo with it in operation!!

Great machines; solid product!!
 
Thanks Geoffdelf

I am anxious to get the ol' girl up and running again. Parts are expected tomorrow.

I was fascinated to see how the oil was distributed to the other gears once I opened it. I had to show a couple of my grandsons how this machine operated! They were intrigued. We have to teach the younger generations how to take care of these machines or they may not use them correctly.
 
Here we go!

Got the top plate of PU in place and tested her before putting the tub in and it purred along just fine. One of the hardest things I had to do was put the white, wire spring (shaped like a "C") back on. It attaches to the underside of the top plate and to the arm that engages the PU to the agitator (the pull lever). I made sure it engaged when the knob is pulled out and stops the agitator when pushed in.

So it looks like I got it right. That was the one thing I didn't take a picture of when disassembling and I had to rely on memory. I did have to walk away from it a few times, but now it is in place.

Just a few more steps to go!
 
Update

Almost 2 years since I revived my grandmother's Maytag. The 'ol gal did great for me last year without a single issue; getting ready to get her out to do some spring cleaning.

I often think about the research I had done to try and save this old relic. I was so fortunate to find a very well documented post from Larry.

Then I had the fortunate experience to have Larry, himself, and Geoffdelf respond and help me understand some questions I had, which helped me get through the process.

Also, Althus, hope you were successful with your washer!
 
Aren't those the best machines? They run and run ... as long as you care for them. Always wash with a full tub of water and keep it full by adding more water in between loads. Never overload. Be kind to the wringer and it will serve you faithfully for a lifetime.

I've got mine all ready for this weekend to clean bedding and rugs as a start to spring cleaning! :-) Weather should be nice for hanging things outside.

So glad you enjoy caring for and using your grandmother's Maytag; that was a great gift you got! :-)
 

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