Nicely toasted door seal at the heat inlet point (not quite a halo).
Maytag Highlander
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(not quite a halo)
Tom, this is NOT a HOH dryer? Why is it not an HOH?
Kevin
Tom, this is NOT a HOH dryer? Why is it not an HOH?
Kevin
Kevin, I think Tom meant that the seal is not quite a toasty golden color. Sure looks like the HOH system to me!
awesome dryer!!
Does it have a light on the control panel when its operating? And what was the difference in the Regular and Wash n Wear cycles?
Does it have a light on the control panel when its operating? And what was the difference in the Regular and Wash n Wear cycles?
Some thoughts about painting.
Painting an entire machine properly is a major undertaking that requires a great deal of preparation(hardware and trim removal, cabinet disassembly, sanding and feathering, priming, more sanding, etc). And the typical tape and spray paint job is just awful. They look good from across the room, but terrible up close. That's why if the finish on the machine in question is salvageable(which yours likely is) then I'd think twice about doing it. If the faded streaks and spots on the finish are bugging you(they certainly bugged me) then I'd try buffing them out before I did anything more drastic. Having worked on a few of them myself by hand with mild rubbing compound, I know they'll come off, as the discoloration seems to be right at the very surface of the paint. Unfortunately, though the results can be excellent, it's really tiresome to do by hand. I'm currently in the process of rubbing out the paint on the yellow Maytags I picked up in January, and to make it easier I've been doing an eight by eight square section of the cabinet every day(when I remember)and the results so far are really encouraging. But if that sort of thing doesn't appeal to you, you might try having a mobile auto detailer come by and do it for you. They have tools that'll make the job go quickly, and the cost shouldn't be that much different. I just purchased some custom mixed Harvest Gold catalyzed enamel to use on my parents washer(it had some corrosion issues all along the lower edge of the cabinet that required sand blasting) and the paint, hardener, and thinner, in the smallest quantities I could order came in just shy of a hundred dollars.
I'm not saying you can't paint your machine and have it come out well, because I know it can be done. But it's very hard to duplicate the quality of a baked on factory finish. Consequently, on large items that I can't bake in an oven, I only repaint as a last resort.
Painting an entire machine properly is a major undertaking that requires a great deal of preparation(hardware and trim removal, cabinet disassembly, sanding and feathering, priming, more sanding, etc). And the typical tape and spray paint job is just awful. They look good from across the room, but terrible up close. That's why if the finish on the machine in question is salvageable(which yours likely is) then I'd think twice about doing it. If the faded streaks and spots on the finish are bugging you(they certainly bugged me) then I'd try buffing them out before I did anything more drastic. Having worked on a few of them myself by hand with mild rubbing compound, I know they'll come off, as the discoloration seems to be right at the very surface of the paint. Unfortunately, though the results can be excellent, it's really tiresome to do by hand. I'm currently in the process of rubbing out the paint on the yellow Maytags I picked up in January, and to make it easier I've been doing an eight by eight square section of the cabinet every day(when I remember)and the results so far are really encouraging. But if that sort of thing doesn't appeal to you, you might try having a mobile auto detailer come by and do it for you. They have tools that'll make the job go quickly, and the cost shouldn't be that much different. I just purchased some custom mixed Harvest Gold catalyzed enamel to use on my parents washer(it had some corrosion issues all along the lower edge of the cabinet that required sand blasting) and the paint, hardener, and thinner, in the smallest quantities I could order came in just shy of a hundred dollars.
I'm not saying you can't paint your machine and have it come out well, because I know it can be done. But it's very hard to duplicate the quality of a baked on factory finish. Consequently, on large items that I can't bake in an oven, I only repaint as a last resort.
Here's a photo of what a little rubbing compound can do.
I had been working my way across the top of the front panel, but today I did a section across the top of the side. The difference between the rubbed out section and the rest of the panel is even more impressive in person. Unfortunately, the camera flash washed it out a little. Once the faded areas are entirely rubbed out and the color is as deep as it's going to get, the chips and scratches can be filled in, sanded smooth and polished out as well, rendering them virtually undetectable. Of course, for this last step to work properly the touch up paint needs to be as precise a match as possible to the paint on the cabinet. As I said earlier, it's not easy, but it's worth the effort. At any rate, whatever you decide to do, whether you choose to restore the paint, or repaint instead, please remember to share some photos of the finished machine so we can all see how it came out.
I had been working my way across the top of the front panel, but today I did a section across the top of the side. The difference between the rubbed out section and the rest of the panel is even more impressive in person. Unfortunately, the camera flash washed it out a little. Once the faded areas are entirely rubbed out and the color is as deep as it's going to get, the chips and scratches can be filled in, sanded smooth and polished out as well, rendering them virtually undetectable. Of course, for this last step to work properly the touch up paint needs to be as precise a match as possible to the paint on the cabinet. As I said earlier, it's not easy, but it's worth the effort. At any rate, whatever you decide to do, whether you choose to restore the paint, or repaint instead, please remember to share some photos of the finished machine so we can all see how it came out.
Wouldn't any matching (but non-turquoise) washer have a porcelain enameled top, and wouldn't it require a professional to reproduce that same finish in turquoise? Is the porcelain enamel process all that common anymore in the painting/refinishing sector?
This model Highlander(and perhaps all Highlanders) uses no porcelain on the cabinet, the finish is entirely painted on. So theoretically he could find a matching washer in any color and repaint it to match. But as we all know, the best solution is always to find one in the correct color to begin with.
Thanks David. I thought porcelain enamel was the standard back then. You learn something here every day.
Highlander tops
The dryers had painted tops but the washers had porcelain tops. You can successfully paint over porcelain washer and dryer tops, but the finish will not be as hard or durable as porcelain, but for our collecting purposes and with good care it can be very satisfactory and it looks great.
The dryers had painted tops but the washers had porcelain tops. You can successfully paint over porcelain washer and dryer tops, but the finish will not be as hard or durable as porcelain, but for our collecting purposes and with good care it can be very satisfactory and it looks great.
macboy91si
Well-known member
Does it have a light on the control panel when its operating
On the 500 series Highlander like this, yes, there is a red neon pilot behind the little diamond. The 300's had the diamond, but no light.
-Tim
On the 500 series Highlander like this, yes, there is a red neon pilot behind the little diamond. The 300's had the diamond, but no light.
-Tim
Thanks John. I had no idea that the washers had porcelain tops. That sure adds a wrinkle.
Ours was the DG502
in white. It was a reliable dryer, ran nicely from 1967, through the 1980s. Easiest dryer ever to program!
I did not like the dark drum in a dark basement, but we had a flashlight with a built in magnet attached to the side.
I suggest that every three months or so, you vigorously scrub the drum vanes (moisture sensors) with a damp terry cloth. Preferably a different clean cloth for all three vanes. Keeps the sensors from gunking up.
Congratulations.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
in white. It was a reliable dryer, ran nicely from 1967, through the 1980s. Easiest dryer ever to program!
I did not like the dark drum in a dark basement, but we had a flashlight with a built in magnet attached to the side.
I suggest that every three months or so, you vigorously scrub the drum vanes (moisture sensors) with a damp terry cloth. Preferably a different clean cloth for all three vanes. Keeps the sensors from gunking up.
Congratulations.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
What's the difference in the Regular and Wash n Wear cyc
I was speaking to John (Combo52) last night and this just happened to come up in conversation. He stated that Maytag set the "regular fabrics" autodry mode (on the HOH dryers) to shut off when the clothes are just barely dry, so not to over dry them.
In fact (John) had complaints from every 3rd or 4th Maytag HOH owner saying the clothes "are not dry enough" when the dryer shuts off. He also said Maytag had a fix for this which replaced a capacitor on the circuit board, allowing the clothes to get more dry before it would shut off.
But back to the question. John said the "Wash n Ware" setting use the same drying tempertures, but will get the clothes "more dry" then the "regular" setting.
Kevin
I was speaking to John (Combo52) last night and this just happened to come up in conversation. He stated that Maytag set the "regular fabrics" autodry mode (on the HOH dryers) to shut off when the clothes are just barely dry, so not to over dry them.
In fact (John) had complaints from every 3rd or 4th Maytag HOH owner saying the clothes "are not dry enough" when the dryer shuts off. He also said Maytag had a fix for this which replaced a capacitor on the circuit board, allowing the clothes to get more dry before it would shut off.
But back to the question. John said the "Wash n Ware" setting use the same drying tempertures, but will get the clothes "more dry" then the "regular" setting.
Kevin
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