I'm trying to help my dad fix his washing machine. Its a Maytag LA308 built in Dec 1978. It fills up with water and agitates, but does not drain. It tries to spin but because the water is still in the tub it goes real slow. He has been able to drain the water by moving the dial around until the drain pump finally engages and drains the tub. He has tried different cycles but always ends up with a tub full of water. From what I can tell it might be the timer or maybe the belts. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.
Maytag LA308 won't drain
- Thread starter tahwles
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mrb627
Well-known member
belt
If the motor is running and trying to spin, the problem is the pump. Check belt first, if it is spinning, you may have a blockage. Shouldn't be difficult to track down.
Malcolm
If the motor is running and trying to spin, the problem is the pump. Check belt first, if it is spinning, you may have a blockage. Shouldn't be difficult to track down.
Malcolm
pump/belt/timer?
Thanks, the motor is indeed running during the spin cycle; it is just still filled with water has so it never gets up to a fast speed. The thing that has me puzzled is that if he fiddles with the dial he can get it to drain.
I still have not looked at the unit in person. I was just trying to do some research before going to his house to work on it.
Thanks, the motor is indeed running during the spin cycle; it is just still filled with water has so it never gets up to a fast speed. The thing that has me puzzled is that if he fiddles with the dial he can get it to drain.
I still have not looked at the unit in person. I was just trying to do some research before going to his house to work on it.
Interesting...
Can you say more about what he does when he "fiddles" with the dial? That model Maytag has two seperate belts, one to the main drive-train and one to the pump. If the motor is running and the basket is spinning (albeit slowly), there are really only three things that could be wrong and they are: 1. The pump belt isn't turning the pump pulley at all because it is broken or too loose. 2. The pump pulley is being turned but for some reason isn't turning the impeller in the pump. (unusual but not impossible) or finally, 3. As mentioned above there is a blockage somewhere in the drainage system that is preventing water from actually getting to the pump.
If by some chance it is actually a suds-saver (LA308S, which I'm not actually sure if that model was ever offered) there are a number of other possibilities because that drain system is more complicated and involves a solenoid operated valve.
Can you say more about what he does when he "fiddles" with the dial? That model Maytag has two seperate belts, one to the main drive-train and one to the pump. If the motor is running and the basket is spinning (albeit slowly), there are really only three things that could be wrong and they are: 1. The pump belt isn't turning the pump pulley at all because it is broken or too loose. 2. The pump pulley is being turned but for some reason isn't turning the impeller in the pump. (unusual but not impossible) or finally, 3. As mentioned above there is a blockage somewhere in the drainage system that is preventing water from actually getting to the pump.
If by some chance it is actually a suds-saver (LA308S, which I'm not actually sure if that model was ever offered) there are a number of other possibilities because that drain system is more complicated and involves a solenoid operated valve.
One more thing
Given what you have described there is no chance that it is the motor, and the only way it could even remotely involve the timer is if it is a suds-saver model. The problem involves a belt, the pump or a blockage.
Given what you have described there is no chance that it is the motor, and the only way it could even remotely involve the timer is if it is a suds-saver model. The problem involves a belt, the pump or a blockage.
pump/belt/blockage
Thanks. I checked and it is not a sud saver model. When he "fiddles" with the dial he is just spinning it to the next cycle and stopping right before the "spin" cycle and waiting to see if anything happens. He said he has to do that "a lot" before he gets it to start draining. When he succeeds, it will start draining for a few minutes and then the spin cycle kicks in and it finishes off correctly.
Thanks. I checked and it is not a sud saver model. When he "fiddles" with the dial he is just spinning it to the next cycle and stopping right before the "spin" cycle and waiting to see if anything happens. He said he has to do that "a lot" before he gets it to start draining. When he succeeds, it will start draining for a few minutes and then the spin cycle kicks in and it finishes off correctly.
My best guess
is that it's a belt tension/wear issue. With the machine empty of water and unplugged from electricity, pull the machine forward a few feet and then tip it backwards until the front is elevated about a foot. Underneath you will see the following: On the far left is the motor pulley (which is a double pulley) with two belts connected to it. One belt runs to the center of the machine. That is the main drive belt. It SHOULD be somewhat loose. The other belt runs from the motor pulley across the front of the machine to the pump which is in the right front corner. This belt should have a "normal" amount of tension on it. If you grab the belt and run it back and forth a few times (while trying not to add any additional sideways tension to it) the motor pulley and the pump pulley should turn freely. The other belt will move as well. Don't be concerned if that belt slips on the large center pulley. In fact it should do that when going in one of the directions. It is designed to slip (that is what Maytag used instead of a spin clutch). The pump belt should NOT slip, however. If it is slipping, it either needs to be tightened or replaced. If the pump pulley itself is turning hard, that most likely means that the pump has a bad bearing and it needs to be replaced.
is that it's a belt tension/wear issue. With the machine empty of water and unplugged from electricity, pull the machine forward a few feet and then tip it backwards until the front is elevated about a foot. Underneath you will see the following: On the far left is the motor pulley (which is a double pulley) with two belts connected to it. One belt runs to the center of the machine. That is the main drive belt. It SHOULD be somewhat loose. The other belt runs from the motor pulley across the front of the machine to the pump which is in the right front corner. This belt should have a "normal" amount of tension on it. If you grab the belt and run it back and forth a few times (while trying not to add any additional sideways tension to it) the motor pulley and the pump pulley should turn freely. The other belt will move as well. Don't be concerned if that belt slips on the large center pulley. In fact it should do that when going in one of the directions. It is designed to slip (that is what Maytag used instead of a spin clutch). The pump belt should NOT slip, however. If it is slipping, it either needs to be tightened or replaced. If the pump pulley itself is turning hard, that most likely means that the pump has a bad bearing and it needs to be replaced.
I had a nice description written of how the machine switches between agitate and spin per the motor direction. Browser crashed. Apparently I'm not supposed to provide the information, so I won't write it all out again.
In short, there should be NO delay during which the machine drains and does not spin. When the motor reverses direction after agitation, drain and spin should BOTH begin immediately.
To clarify on the belts, the pump belt is the one that's normally "loose." Belt tension is adjusted by shifting the pump in its mounting slots. Remove the front panel. Reach under the front edge of the machine and pinch the pump belt together halfway between the pump and motor and watch the motor carriage. At the point the motor carriage begins to shift against the spring tension there should be 1/4" space between the "halves" of the pump belt. If LESS than 1/4" when the carriage begins to move, then the pump belt is too TIGHT (it's putting too much pull on the motor carriage).
You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the help. It is too bad your browser crashed as I was wondering about the details of how the agitate, drain, and spin cycles all worked. I will look at the belts and pump to see what is going on as that seems to be the current consensus.
I do know my dad said that the only maintenance he has done was replaced a water inlet valve and that the belts for sure have never been changed... which is amazing to me as we ran that washing machine a LOT when I was growing up and they still use it almost every day.
I do know my dad said that the only maintenance he has done was replaced a water inlet valve and that the belts for sure have never been changed... which is amazing to me as we ran that washing machine a LOT when I was growing up and they still use it almost every day.
Sometimes a clothing item (usually socks) will make its way over the inner tub and into the outer tub, periodically plugging up the the drain port fitting leading to pump. Remove the tub to drain hose and see if anything is blocking it. I have had this happen where a quarter would intermittently get jammed in the drain opening. I have also had one particular machine that was used in an area with very hard water and hard water deposits were blocking 75% of the opening.
As for the pump, the bearings get dry after decades of use and can cause the pulley to become stiff and erratic in operation. Not to worry though, a bit of Zoom Spout turbine oil (can be purchased at most hardware stores or appliance parts outlets) can be injected through the front access hole, after removing the flat headed screw.
Lastly, if the belts have never been replaced....it's time. Also, it would be a good idea to replace the spring and glides (your particular machine probably still has the original rollers instead of glides, but both designs are compatible with each other). Overtime, the rollers wear out, and coupled with decades of trash accumulating in the tracks, the motor carriage stops "clutching" correctly for proper spin/agitate operation.
All of these items can be found for cheap on ebay. Only use genuine Maytag/FSP parts! After 30+ years of operation, it's time for a little tune-up
Springs and glides
Belts
As for the pump, the bearings get dry after decades of use and can cause the pulley to become stiff and erratic in operation. Not to worry though, a bit of Zoom Spout turbine oil (can be purchased at most hardware stores or appliance parts outlets) can be injected through the front access hole, after removing the flat headed screw.
Lastly, if the belts have never been replaced....it's time. Also, it would be a good idea to replace the spring and glides (your particular machine probably still has the original rollers instead of glides, but both designs are compatible with each other). Overtime, the rollers wear out, and coupled with decades of trash accumulating in the tracks, the motor carriage stops "clutching" correctly for proper spin/agitate operation.
All of these items can be found for cheap on ebay. Only use genuine Maytag/FSP parts! After 30+ years of operation, it's time for a little tune-up
Springs and glides
Belts
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Pump bearing
So my dad bought some belts at the local appliance parts store. They did not have the spring and glide kit so he did not buy that.
The old belts looked surprisingly good. I put the new belts on and the pump bearing seemed a little stiff. When we tried to cycle through the drain/spin cycle and I could see the pump was not spinning. I also noticed a small bit of water leaking from the drain hose near the drum so I pulled on it to see if it was loose and I noticed that the hose had a split in it right at the clamp and I just made it worse. So I have a full tub of water that is not draining and I now have a leak that was bad enough that in an hour or two it would drain all over the floor. I experimented with the tension on the pump belt by sliding the motor back on the glide which did help to get the pump moving but the motor kept shutting down. Trying to avoid a massive garage water disaster I sprayed some WD40 in the front access hole of the pump and I was able to get the pump to start moving again reliably. Even though the pump is working now it seems easy enough to replace so we are going to get one along with the new drain hose.
So my dad bought some belts at the local appliance parts store. They did not have the spring and glide kit so he did not buy that.
The old belts looked surprisingly good. I put the new belts on and the pump bearing seemed a little stiff. When we tried to cycle through the drain/spin cycle and I could see the pump was not spinning. I also noticed a small bit of water leaking from the drain hose near the drum so I pulled on it to see if it was loose and I noticed that the hose had a split in it right at the clamp and I just made it worse. So I have a full tub of water that is not draining and I now have a leak that was bad enough that in an hour or two it would drain all over the floor. I experimented with the tension on the pump belt by sliding the motor back on the glide which did help to get the pump moving but the motor kept shutting down. Trying to avoid a massive garage water disaster I sprayed some WD40 in the front access hole of the pump and I was able to get the pump to start moving again reliably. Even though the pump is working now it seems easy enough to replace so we are going to get one along with the new drain hose.
mrb627
Well-known member
Awesome
Sounds like you are on your way to getting it back in order. You may want to examine the fill flume hoses as well, they tend to crack and leak after years of use too. Not to mention the hoses from the wall to the fill valve.
Malcolm
Sounds like you are on your way to getting it back in order. You may want to examine the fill flume hoses as well, they tend to crack and leak after years of use too. Not to mention the hoses from the wall to the fill valve.
Malcolm
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