Maytag LA612 & LA712 compatible parts?

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chef

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Aug 7, 2021
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California
I have a 1984 LA612 washer and a 1988 LDG486 dryer.
The LA612 agitator is oscillating at only 90 degrees.

I just picked up a washer/dryer set, 1988 LA712 washer and 1986 LDG712.

Is this common for washer and dryer sets manufactured 2 years apart?

This forum seems to be dedicated for washers only? Both LA712 and LDG712 exterior finish is much worse than my LA612 washer and LDG486 dryer.

Are all the parts interchangeable? The LA712 has more functions and the LDG712 has electronic dryer control which is better?

I'll try and rebuild the Pitman tranny and add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom and it looks a little tight but I'll add a filler plug at the top.
I'll check how well the tranny is balanced.

I read in one of these forums, after June 1986 is when they changed the pitman tranny o-ring design?

I thinking of using Motul synthetic gear oil.

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Is this common for washer and dryer sets manufactured 2 years apart?

Sometimes, usually TOL washers moved faster than TOL dryers.

This forum seems to be dedicated for washers only?

Nope, we love our dryers too.

Are all the parts interchangeable?

Yes, everything is interchangeable on the washers except for the console face, timers, wiring harness, and some of the switches. Even the pitman/orbital transmission will swap either way. Not sure if the LDG486 is a sensor dryer, I'd have to look that up. I'm guess that's a no, so that will limit you on some of the specific internals but more than 90% of the parts will swap over. The cabinets will swap, no problem there.

I'll try and rebuild the Pitman tranny and add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom and it looks a little tight but I'll add a filler plug at the top.
I'll check how well the tranny is balanced.

Not really worth the effort. You shouldn't need to change the oil for the next 30+ years.

I read in one of these forums, after June 1986 is when they changed the pitman tranny o-ring design?

Correct, they went from the o-ring design to a lip seal at the bottom of the transmission tube. The lip seal (part# 207843) can easily be replaced without the special tool.

I thinking of using Motul synthetic gear oil.

That's a GL-5 gear oil which may attack the yellow metals inside the transmission. I recommend Royal Purple 75/90 gear oil. If you live in the northern area of California where it gets cold and have the washer inside the garage, use Redline MT-90.
 
add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom

Total waste of time. The trans isn't an internal combustion engine.

GL-4 is the recommended lube or just pick up a bottle of Maytag transmission oil, probably cost about the same or less.

Not even sure what the problem is that you need to open up the trans?

Also, with some Bon-Ami and a light automotive polishing compound vintage Maytag's clean up surprisingly well with a little elbow grease. Those machines look like they could clean up nicely.
 
What is a Subject Drift?

Thanks so much for all the great info and help. So typically every 30 years the tranny oil needs changing and should last another 30 years? Or typically after 30 years, there's worn out parts that need attention?
My LA612 is about 33 years old.

Thanks for whoever made this platform and maintains it. If it wasn’t for this forum platform, I don't think I would've kept my LA612 and purchased a LA712 set.

My 1988 LDG486 dryer does not have the Electronic Dry Control. Is possible to transfer the LDG712 dryer dashboard and components and sensors to my LDG486?
Is the LDG712 Electronic Dry Control something worth having?

My LA612 agitator is oscillating at about only 90 degrees. I don't know what's causing the 90 degrees vs 180. I've read on this forum, the Pitman is supposed to oscillate at 180 degrees?

When I have the Pitman apart, I'll check for anything that needs rebuilding because I don't want to take the tranny out again, ever again if possible lol
If parts for the Pitman aren't available, maybe I can make it and a few extra to help some Pitman owners.

If changing the tranny oil every 1-3 years can eliminate or minimize gears and bushing wear in the tranny, I'll fabricate something. Reason is, Pitman parts are out of production?
Because of what I've read on this forum, I decided to go with rebuilding my Pitman vs a new Orbital purchase.

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You should hook up the 712 washer, use it, and become familiar with its operations before tearing it down and rebuilding. This way you'll at least have a marginal idea if something is off after the rebuild. Also, hook up the dryer and experience beauty of electronic control drying. No guess work of time dried models or the imprecise thermostatically controlled auto dry feature. If the electronics and mechanicals are functioning correctly, your clothes will be precisely dried, not damp or crispy.
 
1988 LDG dryer repair :-)

My 1988 LDG486 dryer repair, before and after. Some of the bushings are self lubricating! I'm familiar with the dryer now but the washer seems a little more challenging.

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Great job on the 486! The 712 is the same except a few extra thermostats on the blower housing and a sensor strip on the front bulkhead. The rest of the magic happens behind the control panel.
 
changing the tranny oil every 1-3 years

Gear wear is an not issue with the Pitman transmission.

Worn, rusted and pitted agitator shafts are the problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.

The original trans oil does get thick from age however (decades not years) and replacing it can improve sluggish agitation.
 
LA712 washer

The outside cabinet is banged up a little with a crude spray can paint job but the inside looks really really clean! As qsd-dan mentioned to just hook it and try it out. That's exactly what I'll do. Thanks again qsd-dan! While I'm test driving the LA712 this beautiful machine, I'll crack open the LA612 tranny.

The 2 photos of the agitator has a gold colored stain coming from port holes. Is this of any concern? Oil or grease leaking?

By looking at the printed belt info photo, do we know if it's the original belt? It says B Maytag 2-11124-4B 3*D

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gold colored stain coming from port holes.

The inside of that washer is almost brand new, just a little dusty. California washer.

However, the damper pads look bone dry, I would lube them first thing before they detach and tear up the damper.

Yes, thats the original belt, don't replace it unless absolutely necessary, the new ones are not the same quality.

The stain is probably from the dirty lint filter.
 
The cup on top of the agitator is a liquid fabric softener dispenser. It’s thrown out of the cup through the slots via centrifugal force during the 1st spin (after the wash period) & is held up in the filter cartridge housing until spin stops for the rinse fill, at which moment it drains down the agitator into the tub. The residue is not oil, it’s years of accumulated softener residue and/or detergent from sloppy pouring and laundry dirt that fell into it. The previous user never cleaned the cup. He/She also never pulled the filter out to clean it, which should be done after every load.
 
You picked a great candidate in excellent condition for restoration. Run it a few times to get the feel of the machine then get to work on restoring it. Those damper pads are really dry and you don't want to use it much until those are replaced and nicely lubed up or you'll be on the lookout for another aluminum damper, which are getting tricky to find.
 
@qsd-dan, DADoES and Good-Shepherd

@qsd-dan
Thanks! I'll open it up and look for these things you mentioned. I think the 712 dryer needs a little work.
And thanks for the info about the damper pads and all the info about the transmission and proper oils.

@dadoes
Thanks for the info about the agitator and fabric softener dispenser.
Transmission is a pitman.

@good-shepherd
Thanks for all the info about the pitman, damper pads, belts and stain on agitator. That's too bad about the belts nowadays, they don't make them like they used to! I was going to transfer the newly installed belts from my 612 to the 712 but I'll leave the old original belts on the 712 as you recommended.

Question for everyone
While I'm changing the damper pads, I might as well change the transmission oil and all bearings on the shaft?

I guess I should change the stem seal as the Good-Shepherd mentioned that can allow water intrusion through a leaking stem seal that can do some damage? Or better yet, change all the seals?
 
I'm changing the damper pads

If the damper pads are intact and attached lubing them with silicone grease should be enough. There is an archived thread on how to lube them.

I don't know why you're determined to change the trans oil, thats a big messy job.

The agitator shaft it what gets damaged, it should be smooth with no rust or pitting so the new stem seal doesn't leak.

You should use the search feature to look up threads on the items you want to service.
 
The white stuff near the aluminum damper is the pads shedding due to friction. Replace them, they are worn. These will soon be obsoleted so buy them now while you still can.
 
Damper pads

@qsd-dan Thanks. You typically use the High Temp Adhesive Tube?
Part Number: WPY055980 (AP6024142)

Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production?
 
Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production?
 
Whirlpool bought out Maytag in 2006 and immediately discontinued the production of this design. By law, Whirlpool only needed to keeps parts around for 10 years, which was 5 years ago. They have been lately obsoleting parts for these machines at an accelerated pace and greatly boosting the price of parts that are still lingering. If you want to restore this machine, now is the time to do it.
 

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