chef
Active member
Is there a stainless steel inner basket tub and outer tub that'll fit or kinda fit?
Maytag LA612 & LA712 compatible parts?
- Thread starter chef
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chef
Active member
Almost got it completely cleaned. I couldn't get the female spline hole entirely clean
chef
Active member
I guess I could repair the outer drum by brazing or MIG welding.
The transmission shaft has some rust damage.
The transmission shaft has some rust damage.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
The transmission shaft has some rust damage.
Trans agitator shaft is shot, appears to be severe hard water damage.
Start looking for a donor trans from any large tub vintage Maytag up to 1989.
Or ask here, someone might have one they would be willing to part with.
Trans agitator shaft is shot, appears to be severe hard water damage.
Start looking for a donor trans from any large tub vintage Maytag up to 1989.
Or ask here, someone might have one they would be willing to part with.
chef
Active member
@good-shepherd
Thanks! The upper aluminum trans threads seems a little messed up. What's that vertical notch passing through the threaded area for?
The parts diagram says there several trans models?
Thanks! The upper aluminum trans threads seems a little messed up. What's that vertical notch passing through the threaded area for?
The parts diagram says there several trans models?
good-shepherd
Well-known member
diagram says there several trans models?
Large tub trans is shorter than the standard tub, but top half #2-813 is the same on both.
Large tub trans is shorter than the standard tub, but top half #2-813 is the same on both.
This is fun!
I love threads like this.
Not much to offer, except - the only part I've ever seen fail which was hard to find on Maytags of that era was the timer.
As to the electronic drying controls, not that impressed. Definitely the weakest design of an otherwise outstandingly well made laundry system. I'd not bother.
I love threads like this.
Not much to offer, except - the only part I've ever seen fail which was hard to find on Maytags of that era was the timer.
As to the electronic drying controls, not that impressed. Definitely the weakest design of an otherwise outstandingly well made laundry system. I'd not bother.
chef
Active member
problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.
Happy New Year everyone!
Post# 1125556 , Reply# 8 8/11/2021 at 14:00 by Good-Shepherd
Worn, rusted and pitted agitator shafts are the problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.
The leaking stem seal part is: A04298 Seal, Agitator Drive Shaft (A4298) or WP210690 Seal, Rubber (Replaces: 210690) or both?
Happy New Year everyone!
Post# 1125556 , Reply# 8 8/11/2021 at 14:00 by Good-Shepherd
Worn, rusted and pitted agitator shafts are the problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.
The leaking stem seal part is: A04298 Seal, Agitator Drive Shaft (A4298) or WP210690 Seal, Rubber (Replaces: 210690) or both?
chef
Active member
Microfiche diagram part numbers
How do I look up part details and part numbers? The part numbers on the microfiche diagrams aren't the same as the listed part numbers below the diagrams.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/09-tub-agitator-parts-for-maytag-la712.html
How do I look up part details and part numbers? The part numbers on the microfiche diagrams aren't the same as the listed part numbers below the diagrams.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/09-tub-agitator-parts-for-maytag-la712.html
chef
Active member
I don't see this brass washer on the diagram.
chef
Active member
Thanks! The brass washer serves no important purpose? I'm installing a new shaft. What's the upper shaft bearing?
"What's the upper shaft bearing?"
There's an upper and lower brass sleeve bearing that the shaft rides on. When the upper seal goes, water makes its way down the shaft and contaminates the upper sleeve bearing. Water intrusion wipes the oil away and causes metal to metal contact between the shaft and brass bearing, destroying it. For some odd reason, Maytag made every single part available except those brass sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearing pops right out but you'll have to find a machine shop that will fabricate a new one. Tolerances here are very tight and critical. When the bearing is installed, the tolerances close up a bit.
"The brass washer serves no important purpose?"
The brass washer is located in the upper cone inside the A4298 seal. You can see it in this picture below. It's placed between the spring and outer rubber mold. It will be there when you purchase a new seal.
There's an upper and lower brass sleeve bearing that the shaft rides on. When the upper seal goes, water makes its way down the shaft and contaminates the upper sleeve bearing. Water intrusion wipes the oil away and causes metal to metal contact between the shaft and brass bearing, destroying it. For some odd reason, Maytag made every single part available except those brass sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearing pops right out but you'll have to find a machine shop that will fabricate a new one. Tolerances here are very tight and critical. When the bearing is installed, the tolerances close up a bit.
"The brass washer serves no important purpose?"
The brass washer is located in the upper cone inside the A4298 seal. You can see it in this picture below. It's placed between the spring and outer rubber mold. It will be there when you purchase a new seal.
chef
Active member
Thanks! Oh that bearing!
I bought a mounting stem, part # WP-6-2095720. It seems to be the correct part number but it's a different design. It doesn't use the washer, clip and a spring loaded seal. The spring loaded seal looks like a good design.
I bought a mounting stem, part # WP-6-2095720. It seems to be the correct part number but it's a different design. It doesn't use the washer, clip and a spring loaded seal. The spring loaded seal looks like a good design.
Maytag switched to the inferior triple lip seal around 1994. You can use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem as added protection (small cone face down, like the previous design), just don't reuse the original washer and (obviously) the clip. Also, be sure to remove the bass washer that usually gets left on the shaft from the previous A4298 seal.
Maytag agitator shaft seals
The new triple lips sealed is actually superior to the old seal that Maytag used for decades. Problem was you need a very good agitator shaft and Maytag did not put a stainless steel sleeve on the shaft for the new type seal to be most effective.
I would not try putting the old type seal underneath the lip type seal I saw one a while ago where someone did that and it pushed the lip seal out and the whole thing failed very suddenly and completely.
You can really see the mineral buildup in that outer tub on your machine that you’re rebuilding, this is from hard water and using way too little detergent or cheap detergent, it’s also ruins the seal which is why the shaft is in such bad shape on that washer. If in doubt when washing clothing always use more detergent make sure the wash water is very slippery and your fingers.
John L
The new triple lips sealed is actually superior to the old seal that Maytag used for decades. Problem was you need a very good agitator shaft and Maytag did not put a stainless steel sleeve on the shaft for the new type seal to be most effective.
I would not try putting the old type seal underneath the lip type seal I saw one a while ago where someone did that and it pushed the lip seal out and the whole thing failed very suddenly and completely.
You can really see the mineral buildup in that outer tub on your machine that you’re rebuilding, this is from hard water and using way too little detergent or cheap detergent, it’s also ruins the seal which is why the shaft is in such bad shape on that washer. If in doubt when washing clothing always use more detergent make sure the wash water is very slippery and your fingers.
John L
"The new triple lip sealed is actually superior"
Oh really, why were these failing like crazy when installed on a brand new agitator shaft back in the 90's? This is a crap design, you're the ONLY repairmen that has had a nice thing to say about them without using an endless stream of 4 letter words.
I've been putting the old style A4298 seal under the new mounting stem for 14 years on all of my machines without any problems. My current daily driver has had one for 14 years and counting. I will be replacing it next year because I know the triple lip seal is probably dead and relying on the A4298 seal to keep water at bay.
Oh really, why were these failing like crazy when installed on a brand new agitator shaft back in the 90's? This is a crap design, you're the ONLY repairmen that has had a nice thing to say about them without using an endless stream of 4 letter words.
I've been putting the old style A4298 seal under the new mounting stem for 14 years on all of my machines without any problems. My current daily driver has had one for 14 years and counting. I will be replacing it next year because I know the triple lip seal is probably dead and relying on the A4298 seal to keep water at bay.
chef
Active member
Thanks. Use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem like this?
