Maytag lid switch fuse

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askolover

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Hey all, my MIL's 90's Maytag TL keeps having lid switch troubles...shooting the little glass fuse. I've replaced the switch twice with genuine maytag parts and they will last a few years then it will blow the fuse again. My question is, why did they add this fuse, is it really necessary, and can I just bypass it?
Thanks
 
I replaced the whole assembly both times over the years. I just came from her house. I jumped the fuse and the washer works. She had a load in it full of water when it stopped. At least I was able to let it finish. I'm sure they had their reasons but it just seems silly to have both of those switches and a fuse.
 
Stupid fused lid switch system

This dual lid switch did not make any sense whatsoever. It was a workaround, because Maytag did not have a powerful enough tub break to satisfy UL standards.

Maytag convince somebody at UL if they put a second switch in, and a fuse that would blow if the first switch stuck to keep the washer from filling it would make the machine safe, scratching head lol

Maytag did this for a few years then they put a stronger spring in the brake package and eliminated the stupid system.

The proper way to solve. The problem is to eliminate the small white switch just bypass the two heavy wires on it by connecting them together, bypass the fuse, and you won’t have any more problems with it. This was an approved Modification on these machines.

John
 
I never knew that, thanks John. I'm guessing it was due some purely technical reason in the way the standard was written. Perhaps braking based on dry clothes just met the standard and not heavier wet clothes. A fuse in the fill circuit would prevent the clothes from getting wet-  in theory. Though in reality a fuse makes no difference.
 

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