Maytag Neptune won't spin

[retro-man]

Ok today after the 4th load, the washer decided it doesn't want to spin anymore. It seems to think that it is still washing. Drum goes in one direction then stops then goes in the other direction, same speed as normal wash. It was sitting there for at least 30 minutes before I came downstairs and shut it off. I would imagine it must be one of the control boards. Any suggestions? Model #MAH4000AWW
Serial # 44319604WU
Jon

 

[DADoES]

I fixed a no-spin on a friend's MAH4000 a few weeks ago. I'm not sure what all characteristics it was exhibiting, other than he said it wouldn't lock the door or go into high-speed spin, as we confirmed when he brought the machine over. The lock mechanism's wax motor had apparently gone bad and blown the R11 resistor on the circuit board (definitely charred). As a work-around, I tried bypassing the two microswitches that trigger when the lock activates. It spun fine ... the lock light stayed on continuously (not a big deal) ... but it kept fluffing continuously at end of the cycle since the microswitches releasing are what signals the board to stop fluffing. That situation wasn't workable under circumstances of where and how the machine is used.

The proper fix is to replace the wax motor (can be found for less than $10) and circuit board (not cheap). But I found a repair kit at www.neptunewaxmotor.com which includes a wax motor, and an R11 resistor and Q6 triac to repair the board. The repair kit is overpriced for what it is, but finding the correct resistor and triac would be problematical (for me, anyway). The board had some track damage between R11 and Q6, so I soldered the resistor lead across to the center lead on Q6.

 

[xyz]

It might be your water pressure switch or possibly a stopped up water pressure switch hose. I see this alot on the newer model GE's. But I'm no Maytag expert.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The magic answer is...

If your 4000 locks the door but just agitates back and forth, your spin enable switch has failed. This is the switch that is on the far right of the latch assy. When the door lock activates, the wax motor (on the left) pushes a linkage over and locks the door. The micro switch kinda in the center is for the door lock light and the spin enable on the end tells the washer that the door is latched/locked and is ok to rev up to the 800-850 rpm spin. If it doesn't sense that the door is locked, it will tumble back and forth while it waits for the 'all clear'. Replace the switch. While you're at it, check the wax motor. If the plunger tip is the same color as the rest of the wax motor, REPLACE IT!!! It is not a matter of 'if' the older wax motor will short,but WHEN it will short. This will prevent premature destruction of your upper machine control board. If the tip of the wax motor is black, then you have the updated wax motor and should be ok.

Spin Enable switch P/N: 22002162
Door Lock Wax Motor P/N: 12002535

Enjoy!
RCD

 

[retro-man]

Who new there were hidden switches?

Well after looking it over I called my handy dandly local repair guy. He was here in less than 1 hour. How's that for service! He has the same machine at his house. He took the front panel off and down below the tub are 3 switches. I guess these are for killing the machine if it goes way out of balance. He reset those 3 and another near the motor board. Alas it went into the high spin speed. Have done another couple of loads and no problem. This did happen yesterday when I had a king size pillow in it. It must have gone way out of balance to throw those switches off. Never had this problem in 8 years and I have washed many pillows before. I was involved with the recall a couple of years back and they replaced the wax door switch and the board that accompanies it. I have saved those since they were still working. So for
$51.00 and a half hour of his time I am happily washing again. I really thought it was one of the boards and I wasn't going to dump $500.00 into a machine thats 8 years old. So I hope the girl just keeps on a running. Thanks RCD for the info and to the others that replied.
Jon

 

[fa_f3_20]

DADoES, if you could point me towards a schematic for that board, I could look up replacments on Mouser and let the group know the part numbers. If those are the only parts that blow up, it seems like a lot of boards can be saved. A resistor and a triac should not be too hard for someone handy with a soldering iron to replace.