Maytag Top Loader problem

[redcarpetdrew]

That's what I'm saying...

Now you know what's wrong and what's needed to fix it. The rough estimate I posted above shouldn't be that far off. I'd try shopping the local servicers for estimates. Remember, those who operate out of a shop (as opposed to a truck) may charge less if you bring it to them. Doing it yourself isn't so bad as long as you have the Maytag tub nut tool to pull the tub nut and the mounting stem... This guy may also be padding the bill, hoping the insurance co. pays up without question...

RCD

 

[jaytag]

craigslist

Check your local C list and watch for a Maytag. They come up about once a month here in ATL. You may have to go to KC to pick one up, but you can get them for $100 or less.

 

[iheartmaytag]

It's alive

The home warranty people reviewed the claim, and decided that since it "Was a Maytag and not a disposable machine." They authorized the repair.

The old girl is holding her water and washing fine. Total bill $386.94. The repairman told me not to expect more than three or four years from this repair, and that I should take this time to look for a new machine. He said it isn't the machine itself, but he quality of the replacement parts that leaves him to worry that it will last very long.

In any case, I didn't have to buy a new washer, and got my money's worth out of the home warranty to boot.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Good deal!

Glad she lives! If he's worried about the quality of the parts, did he use factory parts? Also, did he do the repair the right way and change the tub bolts? Was this guy a factory authorized tech? Come on, enquiring minds want to know...

RCD

 

[coldspot66]

RCD,

Being factory authorized Maytag, you must know that they cheapened the center seal on the stem and seal kit. That's prolly what the tech is talking about. I had one last week that has been dripping for awhile and the customer didn't even notice. It has now taken out the tub bearing, as well as the radial bearing in the brake pkg.

 

[iheartmaytag]

It was a factory part, he showed me the package. He also changed the tub bolts and belts, I watched him.

He showed me the part he took off, and the one he was replacing it with. There was a noticable difference in the thickness of the seal.

He said on some machines that Whirlcrap was molding the bearing onto the tub so you have to replace the outer tub to fix the problem, which is cost prohibitive.

I will just baby the old girl, and pray she holds in there.

He suggested I look at the Bosch FL machines. He said he wasn't a salesman, and didn't make a commission; but he said they are very reliable and parts are easy to get if you need them.

It's amazing those little things you take for granted, things like clean underwear.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Cheaper parts...

Yes, I have to agree that the parts are cheaper such as going to a lip seal for the center seal. I get around that by using the old #A04298 agitator shaft seal WITH the new lip sealed stem. It compresses down nicely and effectively eliminates any worries of re-leakage. What I can't believe is how they've managed to eliminate almost all of the metal from the newer Magic Chef/Norge/Atlantis pump assys yet charge about twice as much for the damn thing...

As far as bearings molded into the tub, I know that Whirltag would LOVE to sell you a new outer tub (around $300) if you get a Neptune with bad bearings (MAH3000, MAH4000 & MAH55/65/7500) as the only way to fix it. That's why we have a way to replace the bearings ONLY without replacing the tub using factory parts. It can even be done with the tub in the washer. Drop me email and I'll give you the routine and part numbers. It's considerably cheaper for the customer and saves a good machine from untimely death.

RCD

 

[qsd-dan]

"I get around that by using the old #A04298 agitator shaft seal WITH the new lip sealed stem. It compresses down nicely and effectively eliminates any worries of re-leakage."

Woah, that's a great idea!!

I can't seem to get that part # (A04298) to show up. Is it still available?

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Life in the post - Whirlpool blender...

If you can't get a 6 digit or older Maytag part number to come up, try putting a Y in front of it. When they blended Maytag and Whirlpool part databases together, they found that there were quite a few 'shared' numbers. For example, the Maytag Drive Belt would now be a 'Y211125'. In this case, you want to pull up P/N Y0A4298. Thats a 'zero' after the Y. The additional seal works fantastic, is around $15 and ensures that the new lip sealed mounting stem won't re-offend.

RCD

 

[qsd-dan]

Time to stock up!

Half of the parts sites don't recognize that part #, while the others claim it's now NLA.

I'm freakin out.......

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Some Hoard food, Others Hoard Parts...

According to our local supplier, alot of places just don't bother to stock the part as the new mounting stem and seal kits don't use them. He can still get them.

RCD

 

[qsd-dan]

Local supplier

Is it Appliance Parts Co? I'll have to look up their new location. They pulled a fast one on me and moved last time I was up there.

I'm going to have them do a few more nationwide part searches for the 63 Frigidaire washer, 58 Maytag 641C, and the 64 Maytag DE-750 (they haven't let me down yet). I think I'll top off the order with 20 of those seals. I'm hoping to be up there next week.