Does any one know how to drain and fill the transmission once I have it out, and how full or how much fluid does it take
The top half of the transmission comes apart via 10 1/2" bolts. Remove the bolts and use a sharp but flat putty knife and a hammer to break the seal and split the case. There are 2 guide pins, so go around those.
Once the cover is off, grab a pan and tip the trans to drain the oil. You'll need snap rings pliers
like this to remove one or two snap rings (earlier versions had 2 snap rings, newer versions had 1. Mid 80's had none and all of the gears go crashing to the ground if the trans is tipped). All of the gears will simply lift out after the snaps rings and washers are removed. Grab the fiber pinion gear and pull the center shaft out.
You'll need a pick set
like this for removal and installation of the o-ring seal. Use the pick on the far left to remove the o-ring seal and use the 2 left picks to install the new one after you have heated it up a bit (I use a hair blow dryer) so it's more manageable. Make sure the new o-ring is properly seated in the groove!
Remove the pin from the fiber pinion gear and loosen and remove the large flat head screw. Remove the brass and steel clutch washers that're underneath the fiber pinion gear. I always purchase a new fiber pinion gear and clutch washers. Clean the shaft and liberally oil it with Maytag transmission oil (original part # 056080, superseded to Y056080, now currently superseded to 6-0560800....'cause Whirlpool can't make up their damn mind). Slip the shaft up from the bottom of the trans (not from the top like Maytag materials says. You'll destroy the o-ring unless you have the special tool). Once the shaft begins to contact the o-ring, gently twist and push the shaft up the remainder of the way. If you push straight up, you may cut and destroy the new o-ring. Properly install the clutch washers in their proper order (the splined clutch washer goes on first), making sure the ears are seated all of the way down. Install the fiber pinion gear, tighten the screw HARD, and install the locking pin.
After a pristine cleaning of the gears and lower trans housing, reassembled everything in reverse. Fill it up with oil and use a new trans gasket. If you have a tourqe wrench, tighten all 10 bolts to 10 foot pounds. DO NOT REST THE TRANS ON THE BOTTOM SHAFT! It will cause the shaft to move up, possibly causing the steel clutch washer ears to come out of the seated position. Bad things may happen of that occurs!
As far as the upper trans housing goes, it's best that you don't take that apart, for now. Just turn it upside down and periodically spill some new trans oil in the orifice near the center so the upper trans bushings get re- oiled. Leave the housing upside down for a few hours and keep refilling the orifice with oil. It takes a while for that thick oil to make it to the upper bushing. Twist the shaft every once in a while so oil flows to the bushings.
I did a writeup a couple of years ago. After taking apart and rebuilding a bunch of these, I have found many new tricks that aren't mentioned in that older write-up.
Here's the old write-up.
But I do agree that adding oil to the brake package should first be carried out before condemning it as being NFG.
