Maytag Transmission O-Ring, where is it?

[volvoguy87]

I'm rebuilding a very grumpy Maytag A702 for Classiccaprice and have hit a snag.

We've got the washer apart. The top of the transmission is off and all the transmission's guts have been removed. I know the O-Ring in the bottom of the transmission failed and dumped oil on the floor. Whee the heck is this O-Ring? I assume it's in the input shaft tube in the lower part of the transmission case, but how far from either end is it? I've pulled out the input shaft and cannot see the ring.

Dave

 

[DigAPony]

O-ring is below the upper brass bushing.

Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone. Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[qsd-dan]

It's difficult to find if you're not familiar with its position. Even with a very small LED light shined at the perfect angle, it's still a PITA to locate. Here's a pic of where it's at. It's about an inch below the top of the tube. You'll need a pick set (a pick with a 45 degree angle works best) to get it out. I've done so many in the past I can extract them in a couple of seconds but that's experience talking. The first one took me FOREVER.

 

[volvoguy87]

I think I've found something.

I can see a groove and feel a groove with my pick, but there is no O-ring in it. That might explain something!

 

[volvoguy87]

The Ring.

In the thread linked above, there are specs for the O-ring. Since Ace Hardware was closed today, I had to go to Lowe's, where they hadn't heard of an O-Ring. I found some in the plumbing department, but they are all sized in fractions of an inch, not millimeters. They are also numbered (#35, for example).
Might any of these work?

Dave

 

[DigAPony]

After searching high and low the closest match to the 10286 O-ring I could find was a #94 at ACE Hardware, 7/8 x 5/8 x 1/8, which measured approximately 22mm O.D. x 15mm I.D. x 3.5 mm. (The Servalite seals mentioned in the post were nowhere to be found in my area, the large o-ring I located at True Value hardware).

The #94 fits over the driveshaft fine but once placed in the groove some pressure is required to install the driveshaft which can, and did, very slightly nick the o-ring.

I'm going to try again with some thin tape over the shaft to protect the seal during the install. I think that will work but the o-ring may spin in the groove during operation. On the other hand, it may break in fine and offer a tighter seal than the original.

 

[volvoguy87]

Thanks

I'm using Brian's guide as my primary instructions and it's going pretty well. It's a team effort of me, Classiccaprice, and Elginkid, with some help from Combo52 via phone. Today, we'll try to get some O-Rings we know are the right size.

I do have a lingering question, however. Since so much oil leaked out the bottom of the transmission, how do I clean out the lower part of the transmission (specifically, the input shaft tube). Once it's cleaned out, how do I lubricate the lower bearing or bushing at the bottom of the input shaft tube?

Dave

 

[beekeyknee]

Dave,

I used kerosene to rinse off all the transmission, including the shaft tube. You can put the transmission housing in a large plastic container and pour the kerosene through the tube by dipping it up with a can and rinsing until it and the other parts are clean.

As far as lubrication, I put a little transmission oil on the o-ring to help it slide down to the groove below the bushing. You can put a small amount down the drive tube with your little finger or small brush that doesn't shed, if that helps you. Just keep it clean. Lube the drive shaft and thread it down the tube as described. The oil will work it's way down to the bushing and stop at the o-ring, if all goes well. It's the gear case cover bushing that gets starved for oil as the machine ages and the oil gets thick. Hope it works for you.

Brian

 

[DigAPony]

Ideally, the lower gear housing should be removed and washed throughly with solvent and compressed air.

The lower bushing, center shaft and gear housing splines, (correct me if I'm wrong), should be coated with the same grease used on the helical gear, such as a EP (extreme pressure) marine grease. I used the Walmart Supertech brand.

 

[qsd-dan]

Since so much oil leaked out the bottom of the transmission, how do I clean out the lower part of the transmission (specifically, the input shaft tube).

I use a long test tube brush after spraying the brake clean down the tube and on the brush. Keep at it until it's clean. If you have compressed air, blow it out to flush any debris and test tube brush hairs.

Once it's cleaned out, how do I lubricate the lower bearing or bushing at the bottom of the input shaft tube?

I use 20 weight turbine oil (don't use grease on oilite sleeve bearings, you'll plug them up!!). Liberally apply it to the lower shaft and slide the shaft up inside the trans from underneath. Perform these steps a couple of times to make sure enough oil is on the sleeve bearings.

 

[beekeyknee]

Doug,

One could put some power unit grease on the lower bushing if he wanted to or felt it might help facilitate installing the o-ring. Coating the drive shaft before inserting it in the drive tube will supply plenty of grease as the drive shaft is pushed down. Anyway, gravity with along with the oil channel groove on top of the drive shaft should keep the lower bushing lubed.

The spline could be greased where it engages the brake. I would use a heavier grease than power unit grease though. Something a bit more sticky, like center seal grease. Something that won't sling.
I don't think any grease has to be used here at all, as the splines just fit together for breaking and to stop tub indexing. I suppose a small amount could be used on the splines to facilitate assembly or to help stop knocking during agitating if the splines don't fit together tightly. As I recall, I just dropped the transmission down in the break w/o grease. My take on it.

Brian

 

[DigAPony]

Okay, no heavy grease on the bronze gear housing bearings.

I mentioned applying some grease on the splines because the A512 I disassembled recently had grease on that area, it couldn't have been from a trans oil leak, the lower oil seal was fine.

 

[qsd-dan]

Yes, grease on the lower shaft/brake splines and on the stop lug. I just fill the rubber cover half way with grease and pop it on. The grease makes its way into everything that way.

 

[DigAPony]

I'm putting together the A512 trans tonight as a matter fact. I ran into a little difficulty installing the center shaft passed the new style lip seal on the later transmissions.

Apparently, the install guide tool for the new seal must be in place or the shaft will not seat fully, forcing it would damage the seal no doubt. These later shafts have a groove machined above the helical spiral gear which catches on the lip seal.

I also used a thin coating of Permatex Super 500 on the gasket for some added insurance, probably unnecessary I know.

 

[volvoguy87]

We'll see from here.

We got the O-Ring seated in the groove, but I think the interior dimension might be a tad too small. I coated the input shaft with oil and installed it. In the process, I very slowly and carefully spun the shaft as I inserted it up to the O-Ring. Then I continued to turn as I applied pressure. It took a fair bit of force, but the shaft suddenly popped past the seal and down the tube. It was so sudden that I took a tumble across the room as I had lost my balance. I fear that the O-Ring may have been dislodged.

I put the gears back in the transmission and put in some fresh oil. I placed some fresh paper towels under the transmission to catch any drips. Right now, my plan is to check the paper towels and oil level tomorrow afternoon and hope that there oil level is the same and that there are only a few drops on the paper towels from the brake (the lower half of the transmission is in the machine). Thus far, it's been almost 2 hours, and no change in oil level and no drips.

Have I lost my mind?
Dave

 

[qsd-dan]

In the process, I very slowly and carefully spun the shaft as I inserted it up to the O-Ring. Then I continued to turn as I applied pressure. It took a fair bit of force, but the shaft suddenly popped past the seal and down the tube.

5 years ago, I asked a veteran Maytag repairmen who specifically worked on these machines since the early 60's on how to install the shaft once the o-ring is installed. He recommended installing the lower shaft from UNDERNEATH the trans. Lubricate the o-ring and shaft....especially the upper splines, and install from underneath. When the upper splines begin to contact the o-ring, gently twist the shaft past the o-ring. This prevents cutting the o-ring. I have used this method on 8 transmission and haven't gotten a single drop out of any of them.

 

[volvoguy87]

Next Step.

Tonight, I'm going to use a Dremel to cut off the old agitator spline so I can reinstall the top of the transmission after filling it the rest of the way with oil. As of this morning, there was no change in oil level (a partial fill from last night). I'll then put the drive pulley and stop lug back on, bypass the pressure switch, and let it agitate and spin for some time to see if I get any oil leakage. It would be easier for me to fix an oil leak now rather than once the machine is completely reassembled.

Dave

 

[swestoyz]

the lower shaft from UNDERNEATH the trans

That's a great suggestion Dan!  I'll have to give it a try on my next rebuild.

 

Ben

 

[DigAPony]

Why not pull the seal and inspect for damage?

The slightly oversize #94 o-ring was a little snug but I didn't go flying across the room installing the center shaft.