Maytag tub light window A806

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hobbyapocalypse

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Does anyone have a picture of what the tub light window looks like in the machine? I was going over the parts diagrams for my A806 and discovered that I'm supposed to have a window. Maybe that's why my tub light is so corroded and doesn't work.

I found a picture of the window online, but apparently it's NLA. Just in case I find one, how does it go in? I don't see any seal or gasket in any parts list and I don't expect it just sits loosely over the hole. Thanks.

hobbyapocalypse-2020012815245100190_1.jpg
 
Here you go!

 

 

I was going to take photos inside my HA806, but unfortunately it's boxed in by other machines.  I then remembered I have an outer tub top/cover in the store room.  

 

So here you go!

 

Pic #1 is from above or the "outside".

Pic #2 is from below, or as you'd see from inside the tub.

Pic #3 is what it will look like after your tub light is working again!
smiley-laughing.gif


 

Kevin 

revvinkevin-2020012823413702736_1.jpg

revvinkevin-2020012823413702736_2.jpg

revvinkevin-2020012823413702736_3.jpg
 
MT Automatic Washers With Tub Lights

The LSEorG1000 electronic stack machines also had this tub light in the 6 o'clock position. 1985-1990

 

The A140, the A160 & A900 series also had this tub light, there are a few other variations of these model numbers that have it as well.

 

No MT Wringer Washers ever had one, LOL

 

John L.

 

 
 
I have several Maytag washers with tub lights and all of them were seemingly installed the same way. They all look as though heat was used to soften the edge that extends down to the underside of the opening and then it was bent over in a few places to secure it in place. No sealant was used on any of them. I have a NOS spare that took me years of searching to track down, but in truth it’s a very simple part. With a small bit of plexiglass, a file and some clear sealant a good replacement could be made without too much trouble.
 
David- Is your NOS window made of plastic?

The part name and number I found is "Maytag Washing Machine Glass Window 211723" so I assumed they were made of glass. But I suppose the term "glass" can be used in a very general way. And I believe plexiglass or acrylic can be softened and bent over.
 
Hey Joseph.......while hunting down the new part so I could get a photo of it I found a used one that I pulled out of an old A700 that was covered in corrosion and beyond saving. If you want it I’ll send it to you. You can use the AW message system to send me a shipping address.
 
RevvinKevin and D-Jones ...

Thank you both!!

 

  For the pics, I've wondered myself what this lens looked like inserted in the tub and at better angles than what the parts pictures offered. My tub is missing a lens as well... now I finally know more what it is supposed to look like.

 

 
 
I told Corey I'd post a drawing of the tub light lens so he'd have the dimensions to work from if he wants to make a copy, so this is it. Some dimensions that can be arrived at by doing a little math have been left off. The original is drawn to 1/1 scale and isn't very large so I didn't want to clutter it up.

As you can see the width of the lens's upper surface is 1.215 inches, the length is 2.218 inches and the height of a new lens prior to installation is .227 inches. Once installed that height is reduced to about .188 inches where the material rolls over the edge of the lens opening on the tub cover. Please excuse the three place decimals in the dimensions. My calipers are used for aircraft work and are far more accurate than they need to be for this part. I used the numbers it provided, but these aren't precision parts and you won't need to be this precise when making a replacement lens for your washer.

d-jones-2020021320403704808_1.jpg
 
d-jones is the man....

David,

 

Awesome! When you mentioned you were planning to post a drawing of the part I wasn't expecting a true technical blueprint. That's just great. Thank you.

 

It helps a lot to see the dimensions as well as have the measurements. Since this thread addresses a common problem I'm glad to have it in the archives, here's something I've found that might help other future lens searches a little bit too.

 

A drawing like this would serve well for 3D printing, but obviously, as you intended, it also makes a good template for a more basic lens you can cutout yourself. I found this post awhile back where someone made a quick DIY lens using a Dollar store food storage container.

 


 

While plexiglass would be the preferred choice for it's similarity to the factory piece, the food container plastic is more malleable than plexiglass and can more easily be cut to shape with basic tools someone would be more likely to have around the house such as heavy duty kitchen scissors or tin snips. The plastic on these is a bit milky compared to crystal clear plexiglass but still very see thru.

 

The original poster, gadgetgary, used an interesting tab design to hold it in place, but with Davids drawing someone could make an exact oval shape and use sealant to attach to the tub the way Yogitunes suggests with plexiglass.

 

Thanks again David
 
I'm on it. Shouldn't take long at all thanks to d-jones' measurements.

Don't let being lousy at CAD hold you back - keep at it, and you'll get there. Being able to translate ideas to models is what really explodes the possibilities of having 3D printers, so it's a rewarding process to get better at CAD and "see" that progress come to life!

I'll make a model that's a little on the descriptive side, so that you can see how I did it.
 
Ok, here we go. This is a model in OpenSCAD - if you haven't used it, it's a free/open-source CAD program based on textual descriptions - you could say its "code" or a "script" of instructions on how the model should be formed from solids. OpenSCAD is a challenge for organic shapes ("Make me a model of a penguin!"), but it's perfect for dimensioned models and engineered pieces like this. www.openscad.org/index.ht...

To generate a STL, just copy/paste the following text into the OpenSCAD editor pane, then hit render (Design->Render, or F6), and then select File->Export->STL when it finishes to save the STL for your 3D printer's slicing software to use.

Apologies in advance if the forum software kills the text formatting...

// ===================================================================================
// Replacement Maytag A806 Washing Machine Tub Light Window
// (Maytag Part Number 211723)
// See this formum thread for details:
// "Maytag tub light window A806"
// https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?81875_15~1
// ===================================================================================

// Model version: 1
// Change log:
// v1: Dave ("LowEfficiency"): Initial model based on measured dimensions by David ("d-jones").

// Constants:
inchesToMillimeters = 25.4; //Conversion factor

// Measured dimensions (converted to metric for model):
r1 = (1.05/2-0.037) * inchesToMillimeters; //Inner cutout
r2 = (1.05/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Outer edge of inset surface that protrudes through metal tub cover
r3 = (1.215/2) * inchesToMillimeters; //Top surface flange of the window
windowThickness = 0.050 * inchesToMillimeters;
protrusionDepth = (0.227-0.050) * inchesToMillimeters;

// Calculated dimensions:
// * Shape is assumed to be a pill-shape with perfect half-circle ends
// * Spacing of rounded end center points is equal to the total length minus the end radius*2
// * Using outer edge of inset portion for calculation, as that is the surface profile that matters for tub fitment
circleCenterSpacing = (2.045 * inchesToMillimeters) - r2*2;

// Unusued dimensions:
// * Measured total length of window at flange is 2.218".
// * Calculated total length of window at flange, assuming perfectly circular ends, would be 2.045+((1.215-1.05)/2) = 2.1275"
// * This should be plenty close enough for a part that isn't fit-critical, and simplifies the model to use an equal flange width.
// * (Can be easily changed in the future if desired.)

// Modifiable parameters:
roundness = 120; //Number of facets to use for circle generation. Larger value = smoother. (Should always be a multiple of 4).
// Note: Some consumer 3D printer controllers/firmwares will stutter if given too many tiny segments. If this happens, reduce the number of facets.

// Part Seletion:
generateWindowFactoryDimensions = true;
//generateWindowClipIn = false; //Provision for a more optimized part that doesn't need heat-bending or sealant to install

if (generateWindowFactoryDimensions == true)
{
window_FactoryDimensions();
}

module window_FactoryDimensions()
{
//Window surface and flange
hull()
{
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(windowThickness, r3, r3, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Window mounting protrusion
difference()
{
//Outer dimensions, overlapping window surface by 0.1 to ensure a solid model
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth, r2, r2, false, $fn=roundness);
}

//Inner cutout, overlapping on both ends to ensure a complete cut through without co-planar surfaces
// (This does not cut into the window surface, only the protrusion portion)
translate([0,0,windowThickness-0.1])
hull()
{
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
translate([circleCenterSpacing, 0, 0])
cylinder(0.1+protrusionDepth+1, r1, r1, false, $fn=roundness);
}
}
}

lowefficiency-2020021512581701282_1.png
 
Also, I'm not sure how hot that area gets next to the light bulb, but you would probably want to print this in a more heat-tolerant material. (Clear PETG would be better than PLA, for example.) Another option would be to use the 3D printed part as a plug/buck for a simple mold, where you could then cast the part in a clear resin.
 

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