Maytag tub no fit

[latchlock8111]

Putting back together a "rusty" Maytag A 408 white tub washer with rust free parts off a grey tub A 106 washer. I'm confused. The 408 damper with the tub braces was long ago thrown out. I do not have it to now match up with the 106 damper and tub braces to the only one I have to use. It is the one in the pictures. But those parts are 100% interchangeable, no matter the tub size, Correct ??? I have both a short/long shaft transmission that I have "dry-fitted" with no luck getting the 408 tub back in to fit with the top down. I have "dry-fitted" both trans and can only get the 106 to fit. Meaning the outer tub to line up with the tub braces/mounting stem tight/lid top to fit etc. I'd like the bigger tub installed. It all comes back to the damper braces. Or am I missing something else ?? ... Photos 1-6 are of the machine dry-fitted with the original 408 parts EXCEPT the damper & damper braces that are off the smaller tub 106. ... for fitting and photos I left out the tub bearing ... Photo 5 when I saw the gap I tore the hair outta my head !! I know this is a simple fix. Care to clue me in ?? Finally, photo 7 is the good top half of the trans I'll use once I get this figured out ... Note: I have all the tub parts/trans/lengths off the 408 and 106. But only the one damper from the 106.

 

[lowefficiency]

>> But those parts are 100% interchangeable, no matter the tub size, Correct ???

Nope. Unfortunately you tossed out the parts you need here.

The tub braces are different between the two tub sizes.

 

[good-shepherd]

The tub braces are different between the two tub sizes.

Yep.

Don't throw out anything unless and until you're absolute sure its not and never will be needed again.

The good news is the correct tub braces shouldn't be hard to find. They were unchanged from at least 1966 until the last DC Maytag in 2006.

 

[latchlock8111]

Good answer

Thanks. I have my answer. I don't normally throw out stuff like that but it was my understanding the ONLY DIFFERENCE between the big/small tub was the long/short transmission shaft. However, the 408 tub braces were corroding/rusted up. Not re-usable. At least how I saw it. So I tossed 'em ... my gosh sometimes you just have to let go. It's a clutter thing. Thanks for the prompt reply. This website is the best ...

 

[good-shepherd]

408 tub braces were corroding/rusted up.

Okay that explains it.

Probably a member here might have an extra set or find another large capacity donor machine, they were mostly unchanged for decades.

 

[latchlock8111]

tub brace #

Looks like I will be shopping for part # 213053. Times 3. As all I need are the brackets. That should be simple to ship/mail.

 

[good-shepherd]

shopping for part # 213053.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[lowefficiency]

Anyone happen to know why the part number for these changed during production?

I pulled up the Maytag parts diagrams I had handy, and the A308 lists these as part #213053, whereas the A408, which I had assumed to be identical, lists them as #313053.

 

[latchlock8111]

wow,thanks

... thank you for the direction. Lorain guy has it going on .... pricey ye$, but it will save me much leg work ... no pun intended.

 

[d-jones]

<span style="color: #ff0000;">"I pulled </span>up the Maytag parts diagrams I had handy, and the A308 lists these as part #213053, whereas the A408, which I had assumed to be identical, lists them as #313053."


 

That's odd. A part number  beginning with three should be for a dryer, not a washer, unless the part first appeared on a dryer at some point. That's not possible for a tub brace. I wonder if it's just a misprint, since only the first number changed?

 

[latchlock8111]

coming together

Photo 1 The replacement brackets Ebayed to my place are in for the bigger tub. I won't make that mistake again. Photo 2 redneck trans workbench. 3 inch hole saw made the perfect support board/bench. Photo 3 close-up. Photo 4 On my way. Photo 5 Gates auto hose # 21517. Cut off 1 inch at the top and 1 inch at the bottom and I have a nice match to original. Photo 6 bolted in place but all for now ...

 

[good-shepherd]

Photo 2 redneck trans workbench

Thats not redneck, the Maytag service manual suggests constructing a similar makeshift trans work bench.

The Gates heater hose, now thats redneck..

 

[good-shepherd]

Make sure you've got the tub bolts in the correct position, short bolt goes in front.

 

[latchlock8111]

workbench

... c-clamped to the tailgate of a beat-em-up-pickup truck with over 250k on the milage ?? Short bolt up front, gotcha ...

 

[qsd-dan]

The cabinet looks nice painted on the inside. I did that with my A700 when I had the entire cabinet sand blasted and powder coated.

 

Did you replace the lower o-ring seal in the transmission?

 

[latchlock8111]

I did

Yes new lower seal went in. The base, from the 106 is shown/transplanted. Repainted but 100% rust-free. Just had paint chippin' off. The base off the 408 was way too rusty for my likin'... that got thrown out too !!

 

[latchlock8111]

Coming together

Put back together and worked fine. But after 3-4 test loads came the "errr" noise. The "err" noise only lasts 1-2 seconds any time I pick up the lid to stop it spinning, or the machine ends its spin cycle. As tub slows down smooth. As tub speeds up smooth. It makes it at the VERY END as the tub comes to a dead stop. Right at that exact moment. Then I move the tub or pully or trans by hand just a few degrees and can duplicate the noise. "err" it back and forth. My trouble shooting skills have narrowed it down to the tub bearing/sleeve/trans neck. As when a helper moves the tub back and forth at the "err" point, I put my hand under the tub on the round rubber bearing neck I can feel it vibrate as I hear the "err". Yet all parts to that assembly are smooth/slick/good. Some how, I guess, after it was put under a load/ stress it caused a "bind". On the 1st 2nd 3rd etc. dry spin no noise/"err". Only after I ran it a few times with towels. It is not a screetch sound. Brake has oil. Or could the brake assembly be sending up a vibration sound ?? Say the word HER. Now drop the "H". Thats the sound ! NEVER the "err" sound when I stop it in agitation mode ONLY from spin. Photo 1. Clean neck. Photo 2 it fits. Photo 3 cold only. Photo 4&5 good Photo 6 With hand on this at the "err" point I feel small vibration. All in all a good weekend but just don't care to be going in the wrong direction with my troubleshooting This website is the best.

 

[qsd-dan]

It sounds like the brake package just needs 2 tablespoons of oil (Maytag transmission oil if you have it on hand, any 80/90 gear oil if you don't).

 

[latchlock8111]

Reg 40 wt

Have put in 40wt oil. More that 2 Tablespoons. If anything to much oil as some has been "flung" about. That means some how the "err" sound vibrates up the shaft to my hand at the tub bearing ?? Will have to feel/listen for the "err" sound on the brake as I move tub back and forth. Didn't think about that location source. The brake, installed, is the "original" which has sat unused, on the washer, for 7 years ? (stored indoors) Internally do those things/brake packages "freeze/corrode up" after sitting ?. The spin tube was/still is frozen/rusted tight to the neck of the old trans shaft. Inside cabinet much corrosion too. Maybe I didn't give the oil enough time to lubricate/breakdown the corrosion in the current brake. Also I could install the more "fresh" brake assembly from the 106 which is much "cleaner". That part I did save. I think I will go that path first.