Maytag wringer Question

[geoffdelp]

Bobby ... you're not reduced to a toad!!

You push in on the release bars to get them to release. You turn the reset on top of the wringer one quarter turn "clockwise" to reset. If the rollers are locked up (about an inch or so space between them) you then press on the release bars and turn one quarter turn "counter-clockwise" to drop them down and then one quarter turn clockwise to reset.

The center knob you are referring to is the agitator start knob? You don't have to pull with all of your might, but you should pull it "quickly" to start the agitator.

Is your machine a pump model? You can tell by the Off/On lever on the right side of the machine by the drain hose. If there is no lever, then you have a non-pump model and you simply lay the hose down to drain the water.

Does that help?

Geoff

 

[geoffdelp]

P.S. The machine needs to be plugged in to be able to pull out on the agitator knob. There is a cam gear in the transmission that turns back and forth when the motor is running and it rises to engage the agitator when you pull out on the knob.

 

[bobbyderegis]

Hi Geoff,
It must be a pump model, because it has the on/off lever next to the hose. It also has a curved top (top of the hose). The release bars and reset don't seem to do a thing, but I can lift the top section of the wringer off, at least one side, the other side has a catch pin. ????? Still hopping around green and toadlike.
Bobby in Boston

 

[geoffdelp]

Hi Bobby ... still don't believe you are a toad!

The curved top of the hose is designed to go over the wash tub for draining. When ready, you put the curved top over the tub and turn the pump lever to "On". The water then comes out ... usually rather fast.

You're right about the wringer; there should be a catch pin on one side. Do the wringer rollers sit together well? When you try to turn the pressure lever on top clockwise, what happens? Do you hear a little "click"; if so, then you did it.

Have you tried to run something wet through the wringer to see if it works? You turn the control lever on the left hand side to start the rollers. Push the lever forward to the first click to get the rolls to turn away from you ... the most common position.

Is this an N2LPS? If so, to get the rollers to turn, you have to step on the foot pedal. If not, they should just start to turn.

Have you plugged it in yet to test everything? You don't need to have water in it to do that.

Geoff

 

[bobbyderegis]

Geoff,
foot pedal?
Is that what the small gray tubing is? Looks like the foot pedal is missing.
Bobby in Boston

 

[polkanut]

It sounds as though your pedal may have have rotted away, or been removed some other way. The wringers run on air pressure with that stupid contraption. My mother-in-law had one of these Maytag's. When I got it the hose was rotten from sitting in a very damp basement. I was able to order a new one, but that was in 2001. I would think that they should still be available. Keep us posted.

 

[abcomatic]

foot pedal- what a pain

Bobby, Here is what I did with mine. I took the grey tubing off and where it joined the machine, I put a screw in there that was the right diameter. No more problems with that ridiculous pedal. Gary

 

[bobbyderegis]

Hi All,
tubing is in new condition. I think the pedal was simply pulled off. Is it kosher to just get rid of the tubing and plug the hole? I hate altering the oldies. The model # is N2LPS. Serial # is 620877. Still haven't fired it up yet. Too chicken.
Bobby in Boston

 

[geoffdelp]

Bobby ... chicken, schmiken!! Fire it up; that's the only way you're gonna know how it operates!

No ... it's not "Kosher" to just remove the hose. The air from pressing on the foot pedal engaged a clutch within the wringer post causing the rollers to turn. The only way to get around it is to remove the entire actuator assembly.

Gary is right ... look underneath and see where it connects to the wringer post. Just unscrew the white actuator. Take it down to the local hardware store and get a (long) bolt that is of the same diameter (I think it's 1/2 inch). Screw it into the hole where you removed the actuator assembly and then turn on the machine and start the wringer. If the wringer still isn't turning, turn off the machine and screw the bolt in a little more. Keep doing this until you get the wringer to operate.

I took the foot pedals off my machines, too. Actually, I sort of liked them when wringing a large article (like a blanket or rug) because you could stop the rollers and readjust the article of clothing. The hassle was moving the foot pedal around the tubs when rinsing.

The foot pedal was Maytag's answer to additional safety of the wringer. It provided "remote" control of the wringer. I don't think you can purchase these any more.

Did you get the manual I sent you yet? I mailed it last Friday. That might "help" you be a little more confident. Relax ... you're gonna enjoy washing with your little Maytag!!

Any pictures yet?

Geoff

 

[toggleswitch]

Is it kosher to just get rid of the tubing and plug the hole

If you got rid of the tubing wouldn't you want to open the hole?

 

[bobbyderegis]

Toggles,

Remind me to run your dirty mind thru the Maytag when I see you.... And your you-know-what thru the wringer. *SMACK*
Bobby in Boston

 

[geoffdelp]

Serial Number

Bobby ... don't forget the 2 letters that go with the serial number for proper dating. I didn't bring the key codes with me today, but can remember it tomorrow. We can then get you a month and year your machine was made. Since it is an N2LPS, it would have been made after 1968 when the foot pedal was introduced.

I didn't understand the Toggles comment and apparently, that must be for the best!

 

[bobbyderegis]

Geoff,
the serial # is only numbers, there are no letters. Does this make sense? Looking at the cord and tubing, this machine is 1970's, I guess.
Bobby in Boston

 

[frontaloadotmy]

The Maytag Date Code

list that I have lists wringers from 1949 - 1965
as having a five digit ser # with 2 letter suffix.
Apparently all automatics of the same vintage have a 6
digit # double letter suffixed.

The next section of the list covering dates 1966-2013
doesn't differentiate #ing relative to Automatic or Wringer.
It simply states that all serial #'s are 6 digits double
letter suffixed, I assumed (God forbid!) that the wringers would be #ed the same way. misnaken once again!

 

[geoffdelp]

Bobby ... do you have the silver decal on the back? Look closely at the serial number and just to the right should be two letters. The first letter tells us what year it was made in and the 2nd letter tells us what month it was made in. The "number" of the serial number is more like a series ... Model N's had a certain series of numbers as did Model E's, Model J's, etc.

So ... to date the machine we will need the letters.

Darrel ... your date codes sound great! Maytag did number the automatics different than the wringers.

Geoff

 

[shabby]

Hey, guys. This discussion just told me everything I was looking to find out. Thanx for asking all of the right questions, Bobby!

I just got a 1964 (I think) E2LP Maytag. It's a beauty. Works great - real quiet. There was something clogging the drain hose but we cleaned that out and now the water shoots out!

We didn't know why the wringers wouldn't work. I was hoping it had something to do with that tube and the foot pedal. The pedal disintegrated in my hand when I squuezed it.

So tomorrow I am off to the hardware store to locate the proper bolt. I sure hope the wringer works after that.

Here is a picture.

 

[geoffdelp]

Well ... Shabby ... isn't that a beauty!!! I bet your wringer will work when you remove the actuator and start using a bolt. You don't have to tighten the bolt all the way in; in fact, don't go too far. If you look at the end of the actuator, there was a little plastic piece that would come out and disengage the safety clutch within the wringer post. It doesn't come out very far so the bolt doesn't need to go in very far. I just keep tightening it (with the motor off, of course ... safety first!) until it starts the rollers.

Good work on the drain hose!!

Your machine has to be made after 1966 ... because ... the turquoise accents were first used January 1996 and the safety pedal wasn't added until sometime in 1968 or 1969.

Good luck; that's a great looking machine!

 

[geoffdelp]

Ooops ... I meant January 1966!

 

[oldwasherguy]

your right geoff,I think this is one of the last made in the early 80s.

 

[shabby]

Really? I didn't check the serial numbers like you guys said to do. I was going by a notation in the Owner's Manual. Someone wrote March 13, 1964 $129.

I will have to check the numbers. I just got it home today and spent the whole morning cleaning it up. My husband thinks I'm nuts - but I love it!

I am so glad I found this board. Great info here.