maytag wringer washer questions.....

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question.....

how do you separate the wringers, when not in use, to keep them from forming flat spots??? would you just hit the "RELEASE" lever and that's it? they are separated enough so they won't get any flat spots? or do you have to do something else to release them more?
 
Christina,

 

 

Once when the boiling water didn't work, I bought a gallon of white vinegar and boiled that instead, and it worked. Really hoping you get the pump freed up. After that, and a new leg wheel, 

the rest is just cosmetics, and you being a hippie doll, it should come natural. ;'D 

 

The inside tub looks well cared for, and of the little peek at the Gyrator, that looks good too.  Nice job on the hook; looks brand new.

 

We have matching Gold Tags. Sweet.

 

 
 
Forgot to say that

Hitting the release bar takes the pressure off, but the purists lift the wringer head up to open a space, and leave it up till the next use. All of Geoff's resting Maytags are pictured this way.   
 
You separate the rollers by ..

Hit the release lever. Then turn the tension control on the top counter clockwise 1/4 turn. That's actually as far as it should let you turn it. Then, while you lift the top roller, I do this by putting one hand between the rollers and lift it evenly upward a couple of inches and hold it while with the other hand you move the tension rod back a quarter turn and slowly let go with the other hand and the rollers should sit open about an inch or so. Practice it a couple of times and you'll be a pro in no time! Same thing to cut it loose. Do the same thing and let the top roller lower with your hand so it doesn't just drop. Then turn the tension rod clockwise all the way and it will tighten the rollers down. There's a YouTube video of some guy using his E2L and you can tell the rollers aren't locked into position. It's obvious the upper roller is just gliding upwards and he's not getting maximum wringer action at all. The people that think they can make instructional videos . .

The oil leak doesn't look bad at all. Normal is how I'd describe it. The rest looks like you got a good little machine there! I'd sand, prime then paint the underside of the lid with some spray Epoxy White Appliance paint. I'd have to look but I think Rustoleum makes it.
 
another picture...

#9
here is a picture of the "gyrator" agitator. sorry i didn't think about adding this picture. i just took it right now, as i was boiling the water in the biggest pot, to hopefully free up the frozen/stuck drain pump!

keep your fingers crossed that it works.........

;o)

hippiedoll++5-7-2014-17-37-44.jpg
 
mickeyd...

thanks for tip on using boiling vinegar, if the boiling water doesn't work for the drain pump. i just went outside & tried the lever and still the same results, nothing happening. but the hot water has only been sitting in the washer for about 20 minutes or so. am i anxious or what?!
LOL....

i did post a picture of the black skinny agitator for you & everyone to see what it looks like & what shape it is in.

so, we have gold "twin" tags, huh??? "outta sight"!!! which model do you have?? mine is a 208 (& lovin' it!).

as for separating the wringer rollers, that's what i did was just hit the release bar.

:o)
 
This is how the wringer

should look when properly in the "Parker" position. This is how the Owners Manual says you should store them.

Also note how I rigged a hook out of a plastic coat hanger and fastened it to the hose with an adjustable clamp. You can do something like that with the broken hook end on your "pump" drain hose. That's the one with the straight threaded end. Then you connect the hook that you straightened out to the hose and and it hooks over whatever you're draining it into. For using gravity drain, the hose with the angled end is the better choice.

e2l-arry++5-7-2014-17-56-13.jpg
 
YAY

Didn't want to be pushy, greedy, rude, or demanding LOL, but a money shot --the tub and agitator--is pretty much required around here. And with you being so sweet to us, no one said a word.  

 

Really have my fingers, toes, arms & legs crossed in hopes that the impeller swings free.  Remember the white vinegar, if needed. Cheap gallon jugs at Walmart. Sending you  a strong vibe, listening to the Beach Boys.   Good, good, good..... good vibrations, la la. 
 
e2l-arry....

thank you for explaining how to separate the wringer rollers more, by turning the tennsion control counter clockwise. i didn't know there was a difference if you turned the tension control one way or the other? but now i know that when you turn it clockwise, it tightens the tension. not sure which way i was doing it? but now i know.

i did try to lift the top roller slightly a few inches and tried to turn the tension rod back into the original position, but i don't know what i'm doing wrong, cuz it doesn't seem to "catch" onto anything, to hole the top roller suspended a few inches higher. maybe i still need to practice doing this a few times to get the hang of it? but as long as just hitting the release bar is good enough to keep the rollers from getting a flat spot, i guess that'll be good enough for right now, for me.

as for the oil leak, i thought it looked so much worse, when i first looked at it. and that wheel that falls out/off, looks like it is oily too. so, i figured it was a pretty oily mess on the inside of that left rear leg. but now that i seen the picture i took and you describing it as "NORMAL" looking, i am satisfied with that. thank you for the confirmation e2l-arry. :o)

and thank you for the suggestion about sanding, priming, and painting the underside of the lid and what kind of paint to use. that is something that i do want to take care of.

also, i noticed that it looks like someone wrapped black electrical tape around the egde of the lid. it looks like there is piece of the rubber (gasket?) that is missing, so someone wrapped it with the black electrical tape to keep the rubber gasket in place so it wouldn't fall off.

thank you so much for all the great tips! it is much appreciated!!

:o)
 
ok guys.....

now i know this is probably the wrong group of people to ask this question too but...
is it possibly wrong to have too much fun with a washing machine???
LOL.....

i am having just a little too much fun figuring out this wringer washer!!!
and the bad news is that it's almost time for moms to come home. so, i've got to be "closing up shop" here soon, before she gets here and discovers my new "toy"!!
LOL.....

by the way:

e2l-arry
thank you for the picture or your beautiful wringer washer, so that i could see how the wringer rollers are supposed to be separated.
good new, I DID IT!!!
i figured out that i have to turn the tension control over more than just putting back into the original position, so that it will "catch" & hold the top roller in the higher position.

here's a picture i just took:

hippiedoll++5-7-2014-18-21-19.jpg
 
hey mickeyd....

here is a better "money shot" of the washtub & the wringer!!
is this better??

it's got the "HOT" water sitting in the tub. i took the agitator out, after i took the picture.

;o)

hippiedoll++5-7-2014-18-22-46.jpg
 
rigged hook out of a plastic coat hanger...

hey e2l-arry:
thank you for the great idea of how to "improvise" with a coat hanger. i have plenty of wire coat hangers. but i also have that extra drain hose, that was inside the washer that i could just switch out. so, not sure which route i will do. for now, the drain hose with the broken off hook, it does seem to sit onto of the hook hole with no problems YET. so, we'll see what happens.

i'm gonna go gravity drain the water out of the washer now and pour some more boiling water in the washer again....

thank you again for the great idea of the plastic coat hanger hook e2l-arry!!!

;o)
 
Good job girl

Your doing good!
Hope you can get the pump working! You might try filling the tub to the top with hot tap water let it sit, then gravity drain it so there's some force behind it, and while draining, engage the pump on and off. See if you can get it to brake free.
(Don't forget there is a adjustment for pump that may help)

The oil doesn't look bad to me either, for its age (I'll guess it to be 1956) you could try to clean up what on the leg with a S.O.S pad, so that its clean, as to monitor if anything fresh comes out.
The legs on your N look to be a little different than my E. Can you take a pic of one of the others, maybe from seeing how the other legs and wheels are set up we can figure out what's going on with that one bad one? Maybe a washer could be tack welded in place, so the wheel has something to go inside of
Can't tell from the pic what going on there.
Here's a pic of one of my legs LOL

stan++5-7-2014-21-15-13.jpg
 
wayupnorth.....

i tried to find the model & serial number imprinted on this washer, but i couldn't find it anywhere?? i thought it was on the back side but i didn't find it??? so, i have no idea how old this actually is?? if you can tell me where to find the serial number i'll post the number on here to figure out when this wringer washer was made.

as for the left leg wheel, i don't understand how you "put a hose clamp under bottom of the wringer leg"??

as for unscrewing the gooseneck and using a garden how to either gravity or power drain, thank you for the idea. i will keep that in mind as an alternative!!

:o)
 
stan...

thanks for the words of confidence!! :o)
and for posting the picture of your wringers leg.

and that is a very good idea about filling the washer all the way to the top with hot water and letting it gravity drain with the hot water, while turning the pump on & off, to see if the force of the hot water will help start up the drain pump!!! i never even thought about that!! i just barely filled the bottom thinking the water just had to be "HOT" while it sat in the pump. but if there is force of HOT water running through the pump, maybe it will help it move & start pumping!!!

as for the adjustment for the pump, i don't know anything about this? how do you adjust the pump??

as for the leg & wheel, i should of thought to take pictures of it. but it's not like i can't take the wheel out to take a picture of it. so, i will take pictures & post them tomorrow.

as for "Maybe a washer could be tack welded in place, so the wheel has something to go inside of", the part of the leg, that the wheel goes inside of, i think is still around the peg of the wheel. when i take a picture of it, you will see what i mean. there is a metal piece around the wheel's peg. i think that part is part of the bottom of the leg.

and yes, your E legs are differnt from the legs on my N. i will post pictures of the legs tomorrow. that way you can see exactly what they look like.

thank you again for your thoughts stan. can't wait to try a washtub full of HOT water to try to get the pump working!!!

;oD
 
question.....

should i keep the agitator on the shaft, when i fill it all the way with hot water? or should i take the agitator off??? i don't know if the metal agitator shaft is not supposed to get wet?? please get back to me & let me know.

thank you bunches....

;o)
 
Gram used Brillow pads or steel wool and scoured on everything, so I have no original decals left on mine either, including model and serial numbers. I know yours is pretty much the same age as mine. I think my uncle put the clamp on the leg years ago as gram was having problems with the caster and he just cranked hard on the bottom of the leg, crushed it up, and caster has rolled fine since. I wished he hadnt done that but I have 4 casters that work.
 
If

Your filling the washer, leave the agitator on. You need to use it, because there is a full line (mark) on it that let's you know that it's full. If you look at the fins of the agitator from the bottom to the top, right at the top where they become narrow, and turn into the top, that's is the full mark. Will post a pic if you need to see.
I would think there should be a serial # stamped into the machine somewhere?

The adjustment to the pump really has to do with the rod linkage to the pump lever. If you look under, you see where the pump lever moves back and forth, and that a rod is connected to it, and when on, the pump is moved, and the pump wheel engages the inside edge of a flywheel, or really called the power unit pulley. Anyway that rod is threaded on one end, and a nut holds that linkage to the lever. This is where it can be adjusted a bit.
Of course this may not be your problem! I'm probably thinking too to far ahead! Let's not worry about that yet. We'l wait and see how the hot water, trick works. And Micky's vinegar idea. Maybe pour hot vinegar down the hole, and let sit over night, then fill with hot water and drain, engage pump ect
Something will work!
 

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