Miele W1926 washer & T1526 dryer I just bought

[askolover]

My model tag is on the inside back of the chrome door ring dead center. 

Page 24 of the manual tells how to activate high water level.  My 1986 has it turned on...but washing it does not fill as full unless it's on delicates.  But rinses do fill up on the glass a bit.  Also, after a few minutes of operation mine locks out any changes to the program.  Yours has that capability too if it's been set in its little microchip brain.

 

[askolover]

shocks

what about these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Stk-Shock...944282?hash=item2efde2075a:g:sucAAOxyoVZTIG5X
 

This listing above says it will fit w900 series washers.  When I ordered the door boot, I found it on ebay listed to fit w900 washers.  I contacted the seller and he said it would fit American 1900 versions.  He was correct, it fit.  So...and I may be wrong so feel free to correct me...but I believe parts from Europe that say they fit w900 will fit our w19xx machines here.

 

[launderess]

Ordered my shocks from Europe

When it was time to replace them, at least one thinks one did. *LOL*

Miele techs will install NIB parts a customer has long as they are just that; Miele and "new" as in unopened container. Then the warranty from Miele regarding service and parts is valid.

You have to know your prices though. Sometimes after currency conversion, VAT and shipping from Europe the difference between there and MieleUSA isn't that great. Of course if the parts are a give away price.

Watched tech replace the shocks on my machine and it is not something one would want to do on one's own. Newer Miele washers have removable side panels to make access easier. On these older units everything is serviced either from front or top.

 

[gizmo]

can you post a photo of the shocks?

If they are what I think they are, they might be repairable.

It looks a lot like a W840 I have repaired in the past.

 

[launderess]

Hello Kevin

Just telephone MieleUSA at: 1 (866) 694-5851

Follow the prompts when asked till you reach the parts department.

Have your washing machine's model number ready and from there inquire about the shock absorbers. The rep will tell you if they are available, price and part number. If he or does doesn't give all information, just ask; they are very helpful, and I should know shouldn't I? *LOL*

Armed with the above information either go onto eBay or do an internet search using Miele part #********. You want to order *TWO* shocks because both should be replaced at same time regardless if only one is worn.

Make sure you order genuine Miele parts that will fit your machine. I stuck to the part number that matched one given by Miele and had no problems.

Once you have sorted out which is cheaper and a better choice you have two options.

Order the parts either from Miele or elsewhere and do the repair yourself.

Order the parts from Miele and have them do the repair.

Generally regardless of what a customer tells Miele when making a service call they will schedule an appointment to diagnose the problem. Tech will arrive look at and test the machine, then give a report as to issues, cost of repair and parts. Unless things have changed (again) Miele no longer will do repair work on same day; but schedule another appointment to return. Fee to come out and "diagnose" is around $125. Fee for them to return and do the work is around $80/hr. plus cost of parts.

If you have a European torx set for power tools removing and swapping out the shocks might prove an easy DIY job for someone like yourself. I chose to go with Miele's repair service, but that was just me. It is a bit of a tight squeeze inside the machine, but again these model washers were designed to be serviced from the front.





Quite honestly now you know why the washer and dryer were at "give away" price; but truth to tell the repair is a minor one on the scale of things that could have been wrong with the washer, and thus even if you end up paying a few hundred you'll still have a washing machine that is streets better than most of what is on offer today.

You can test the shocks by taking the top of machine off (very easy), and pushing down on the drum. There shouldn't be much play, if there is, well there you are then.

Another way to tell if the washer has or is having shock absorber/suspension problems is to examine round the glass porthole. If you see circular etching, scratches or marks it usually means that the machine cannot control the tub and movements are causing things to hit that glass. Sadly my Miele did this and was one of the ways the diagnoses of bad shocks was made. Tech explained what one just related; out of control drum allows excessive movements....

I personally would not use the washer at all or perhaps just for "light" loads until you sort out the shocks. IIRC the 1926 does have an out of balance system that will prevent the machine from bashing itself to bits, but you don't want to take any chances. Last thing you want is to damage the suspension springs and or their supports.

If you want to check the repair history of your washer, telephone MieleUSA and get put through to the tech support department. Give them the serial number from plate on washer, that is how Miele tracks service calls for appliances. If they get nosey just say you purchased the thing used and want to know the history.

Also from the serial number Miele tech support can give (usually) the age/when machine was made.

[this post was last edited: 4/18/2017-08:35]

 

[launderess]

"I still have not been able to find the model tag on the washer, any ideas on where it's supposed to be?

Serial plate should be right above the porthole/rubber boot when you open the door. That or perhaps on back of door above the porthole glass.

If not there try either to the right of porthole opening (rubber boot)

 

[launderess]

Ok, did some of the work for ya.

Friction shock dampers are $54.99 for a set of two from MieleUSA. Plus shipping and handling of course. Part number is: 09819130

 

[revvinkevin]

these old Miele washers are heavy...

 

Heavy?   Pfffft, this ain't nothing!  Try moving a 1959 Lady Kenmore Combo, those BEASTS weigh almost 200 lbs MORE then this little "feather weight" Miele, LOL!!!  

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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Launderess my luv, thank you, thank you, thank you for all of the info and foot work (finger work?) on this!  Very much appreciated!   I tried searching with this part number (Google, ebay, Amazon) but nothing comes up at all.   So.... </span>I just called Miele and ordered the shocks, should have them in a week.  

 

Also, I gave them the serial number for the dryer and she said it was first sold Jan 9, 2001.   She also suggested it was most likely built in 1999.   I assume the washer is around the same age, but will confirm once I find the info label.

 

Fortunately I do have some knowledge, plus the tools and ability to do most repairs myself, so no reason to call Miele service in for the repair.

 

Greg and Launderess, thanks for the model tag location info, I'll take a look when I get home this afternoon.

 

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">"Why the washer & dryer were at "give away" price"...</span>

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I'm sure the worn out dampers have been that way for a while.  But I'd also bet the real reason the set was "kicked out" is the pump stopped working, hence the pump drain left open.  Regardless they are still neat, though small machines, I'm glad I went back for them.</span>

 

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Kevin</span>

[this post was last edited: 4/18/2017-16:03]

 

[askolover]

Don't let the size fool ya!  I can fit a King size quilt in mine.  It holds more than my Asko will, and the Asko was plenty big for us.

 

[launderess]

Knackered pump motor

Oh yes, totally forgot about that one.

Such a shame to discard that Meile set over such small beer. Even if previous owners went with Miele to do the repair total cost wouldn't have amounted to *ahem* much, as it takes less than one hour to swap out pumps.

Miele uses a different vendor for their shock absorbers than the aftermarket brands you were finding previously on the web for "900" series.

There is some debate out there as to if the Suspra shocks are better, same or worse than Miele. I personally just stuck with Miele genuine parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Shock-Absorbers-Miele-Replaces-4500826/dp/B00ZABRWK0

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?58236

Here are some tips on replacing the friction dampers: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/miele-w820-front-loader.253371/

Right side should prove the more easy of the two. Left is a bit tight because of the pump and a few other things sort of blocking view and access. If you have the proper extensions for your Torx it makes the job a "breeze". Well almost.

While you are "in there" and or over the next few weeks or so I'd put the washer through its paces and see if anything else is wrong. The 1900 series has joined the 1000 and certainly 700 model washers as being "obsolete" by MieleUSA. That is they have reached the 20 year milestone that Miele guarantees parts will be available. As such whatever is in stock for North American warehouses is all that there is; Miele will not order anything from Germany.

Things like friction dampers, pumps and some other bits that were common across several platforms probably have stock remaining. OTOH things specific to a certain model washer may not. For instance the motor to my W1070 is out of stock.

 

[golittlesport]

Congrats!

Yay! Congratulations on your new machines, Kevin. Great deal!! I'm looking forward to seeing them.

 

[revvinkevin]

Found the model tag

 

 

The model / serial tag for the washer was on the backside of the washer door!  An odd place to put it, but at least it's still there.   Looks like this washer & dryer were sold together as they were both sold on Jan 9, 2001.  Again they suggested the washer was most likely built in 1999.

 

Launderess, thank you again for the info and thread link, interesting to read!  Also interesting the LG shocks may work.

 

Another question: when I was searching the parts websites for the shocks, I saw carbon brushes for the motor.  How often do these ware out and need to be replaced?  With these machines being 17-18 years old, should I be concerned about replacing them?

 

Rich, THANKS!  Let me know when you want to come buy and do laundry! 

 

 

 

Thanks!

Kevin

 

 

 

[stricklybojack]

.
There is a thread here on AW wherein the brushes on one of these are replaced diy, saving upwards of a thousand dollars or more as i recall.

 

[revvinkevin]

Update #3 - good as new!

 

 

I ordered a new pair of tub dampers / shocks from Miele and they arrived Saturday.  After getting home from work I installed the new shocks and also cleaned the drain pump seals and area it seals against, now it no longer leaks!  Now this little 18 year old Miele washer is as good as new again!

 

In the photo, one of the two old, worn out, useless damper, at the top, Suspa brand.   The one at the bottom is the new Miele replacement.  Yes the internal part is plastic, but hey, it works as it's supposed to and that's all that matters.  

 

Kevin

[this post was last edited: 4/23/2017-23:56]

 

[foraloysius]

Wonderful! Congratulations!

 

[revvinkevin]

 

 

Thank you Louis!  

 

Now all I have to do is find the bag of Persil detergent that I'm sure I have here somewhere, so I can start using it in the Miele!

 

Kevin

 

[askolover]

Glad you have it fixed Kevin!  You will love it.

 

[revvinkevin]

Update #4 - working great & more observations

 

 

After I installed the new shocks / dampers, it's been working like a champ!  Though I've only run approx one load per week in it.    

 

Last weekend I decided to try a load of cal king sheets & 5 king pillow cases, with rapid wash & water plus.  It's interesting to note that the "water plus" option adds water 3 different times, over the duration of the wash, rather than all at once at the beginning of the cycle.

 

I think large thin items like sheets are best done in a larger washer.  While the drum was not stuffed, once wet there was little room for the sheets to separate and tumble.  Plus, as the cycle progressed I was still seeing evidence of suds during the 2nd high water level rinse, so after an abbreviated spin, I removed the sheets, which were wadded/balled/tangled up and put them in a larger washer for 2 more rinses before going in the dryer.  I think I'll stick to smaller, rather than larger items like this and specifically whites, in this washer.

 

Last week I ordered some Persil through Amazon and it arrived yesterday!  I'm looking forward to trying it on a load of whites at a 180 or 190 (degree) wash. 

 

Kevin

[this post was last edited: 5/18/2017-17:13]

 

[launderess]

Welcome to my world

There have been many discussions here in the group about balling up of bed linen in front loaders (yes, a few started by Moi), and the upshot was far from settled.

For every person who reported issues, others claimed the thing never happens. Some fold their linen before going into the washer in various manners, others have various other "tricks". Long story short one doesn't have that kind of time each wash day to perform origami folding on bed linen before it goes to the wash.

Will say it seems crisp bed linens, that do not compact down much (if at all) during the wash need smaller load sizes than say flannel or even muslin.

Fitted sheets? The person who invented them ought to have been lined up and shot. *LOL*

One finds invariably things get caught in pockets of fitted sheets and when washer goes into spin things become unbalanced.

Will say that under loading seems to give better results with most front loaders have used. The Miele doesn't like this as it tends to create unbalanced loads. AEG/Lavamat thanks to more refined electronic controls does a better job. However things still tangle/ball up in that machine and often have to stop, unlock then open door, untangle and restart.

Besides speed, one reason for seeking out a wringer washer, and or doing linens with a tub and mangle is simply to get on with things. Rather than deal with long cycle times, and the near certainty that things will become unbalanced during some portion of cycle.

Happily our bed linen isn't very soiled so doing them in tubs or even the wringer isn't a huge deal.

Other thing one does is simply use the Miele's PP cycle (no spins between rinses), and after draining final rinse water chuck things into spin dryer or use one of my mangles. This is especially true of the Miele, where after spending >$300 to repair the suspension, and sums a or so before that on new shock absorbers, am doing all possible to baby the machine.