Miele W1986 Cold Water Intake Problem

[jerrod6]

Ok I took some pictures of the old part

Here is the top of the valve unit containing the electronic connection points.  But this doesn't look like anything you can just prey off.  I dunno.

[this post was last edited: 9/10/2012-18:32]

 

[jerrod6]

From side

view from side

 

[jerrod6]

from the bottom

This may not actually be at the bottom of the unit depending on how it is placed into the machine, but this is were I think the hoses from the dispenser  connect to.  Note the insides.  Each one of these looks be be different not sure what that means.

[this post was last edited: 9/10/2012-18:33]

 

[jerrod6]

part number

Here is the part number 

 

[jerrod6]

One more thing!

For the rinses, check to see what cups the water is running into because the machine uses much more water in the rinses than the wash so It might send water through multiple cups for the rinses....especially the last rinse using fabric softener. 

 

[Lee280zx]

Well, I can report that the vinegar/CLR method was a failure. Because I didn't test it in the right way (didn't know how to) when I started, I can't even say for sure that the CLR and vinegar did anything. And I really ran the stuff through. I am confident when I say that I ran it through so much for so long that if it could have worked, it would have.

I don't think I want to tinker with the valves. I suppose I will either replace them myself or pay Miele to do so. I really hate it. If I do this and I have several trouble-free, repair-free years, I will be happy with my Miele purchase. If not, these will get chucked in favor of an LG or the like with an extended warranty.

I really appreciate everyone's input. It did help. For instance, I hadn't considered that switching to a new machine might mean that it would use less water, thereby making it less able to clean clothes. I'd like a machine I can program in terms of how much water it uses.

The parts through Miele are about $240 plus tax and delivery for the cold water triple-valve, and $140 for the hot water valve (which is just a single valve). I'll have to call to see what it would cost to have them installed.

One last question: Does anyone think it would be a good idea to replace the supply hoses? Or are they pretty much good for the life of the machine?

 

[gizmo]

(excitedly) yes, yes, that's the one!

Thanks for posting the photo, Jerrod6.

That beige plastic plate at the top with the part number stamped in it - Yes,it is removable. You stick a screwdriver between the plastic plate and the valve underneath and pry them apart. You need to alternate prying at each of the three valves, levering up a couple of millimetres each time.

See on top of the plate, there are three pairs of prongs sticking up through the plate? they are the solenoid contacts poking up through the plate. The purpose of the plate is just to carry the electricity from the fancy multi-wire connector to each of the valves. On cheaper machines (and older Mieles) there is no plate, and the wires go to each solenoid directly. Click on Launderesses' link at reply #15 above to see what I mean. They are the same valve assembly, only the plastic connector plate on top is different.

You could then easily source cheap inlet valves - three singles, a single and a double, or a triple, and swap the rubber diaphragms as I outlined above. I'm happy to give more help if needed. Note I do NOT have the machine I repaired, so I can't do photos.
If Jerrod6 wants to rebuild his valve and take photos along the way, I'd be glad to give guidance...

Any way, I have found this online... (see link below)

It is from the UK so the solenoids are 240 volt, but it looks like from Jerrods's photo we can see that even the USA models have 240 volt solenoids so you are right to go. (Even if the voltages didn't match, you could swap the solenoid coils over easily, they also just pry up to remove.)

It's not rocket science, it's an easy swap. The Miele price for that part is astronomical. (nobody is surprised...)

If the hot fill is still working well, then the hot valve doesn't need to be replaced.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Lee280zx]

Thanks to all of you for the continued responses. While I wasn't willing to try to install the Miele part myself (it was going to be over $250 with shipping and tax), I will buy and install the part Gizmo linked to on eBay. I contacted the seller and he said it is a direct fit for my W1986.

That's enough savings to make it worthwhile, and, even if I somehow ruin the part, I'm only out about $80. I spent almost half that much already on CLR and vinegar!

The eBay part seller said that I can get to the part just by removing two screws on the sides of the lid. I see that there is a cover on each side of the lid near the front. I'm guessing if I pry those covers off, I'll find a screw underneath each. Do I really just need to unscrew those two screws and the lid will lift off?

 

[jerrod6]

IIRC

There are two screws under covers on each side of the top near the front.  I think there are two screws in the back.

 

You might have to lift the top up from the front of the machine first, then remove it completely from the back because I think the back part fits into something to form a type of hinge.

 

This is all from my memory so best to unscrew what you see and try to remove it and take it from there.  There is nothing deep down inside that is holding the top on(refer to the laundress link in post 15 and go down to the 3033 pictures.  I think the back of the 1986 top  looks something like this.  Take it one step at a time.

 

 

[gizmo]

from memory...

unscrew each screw on the side of the lid, towards the front. (1 each side = 2 screws total.)

Slide the lid towards the back, this disengages it from the two plastic retainers at the back.

then hinge the lid upwards from the front, lift it up, up and away.

 

[peterh770]

I never had an error light for the water supply, but I have had 2 valves on 2 different machines develop a slow leak...

 

[Lee280zx]

I just finished the repair myself!

Thanks to all of you, I just finished the repair myself with the part from eBay that Gizmo linked to on eBay.

I would rate this an easy repair. I've worked on a lot of appliances before (and cars, homes, etc.). It might be a bit more difficult for someone who hasn't. But it was basically just removing 9 screws, pulling off and reconnecting that plastic connector plate, and pulling off and reconnecting the hoses.

You'll want to color-code or otherwise mark the hoses, and take plenty of pictures at all different angles before disassembling things.

Thanks to everyone. This saved me hundreds of dollars.

 

[launderess]

Told You So

Glad things worked out for you as they did.

L.

 

[hhsuds]

Me too

Thanks to all, just did the same repair on my Miele W1926. Fortunately I had bought the part a couple of years ago anticipating the failure. Was wondering if stock piling any other parts for my machine might be a good idea.
Take good care.

 

[tsuma]

My W1986 stopped shutting off incoming cold water and luckily I found this thread.

After much searching for a cheaper triple cold water valve Miele 03801391 (TNR 3801391), I think I found a replacement.

Miele USA parts department wanted a ridiculous amount of money for 03801391 part, and the only offers on eBay were for used valves.

Thanks to the pics in this thread, I found new identical looking Miele 1678013 valves on ebay, many offered from the same seller in Germany.

I contacted the seller and they said it was the same part, so I immediately ordered one.

Will report back if it there are problems.

————
eBay
New message from: dany96 (31,721TurquoiseShooting Star)
Hello

yes is the same.

MfG
Mit freundlichen Grüßen

Harald Streicher
Unterhaltungselektronik
Tel: 0179 1244461
Ringstr.11
54570 Kalenborn-Scheuern

Your previous message

Hello, I have a Miele W1986 machine with defective triple valve. Is this valve the same as Miele 03801931 ?

Solenoid Valve Washing Machine Spare Miele 1678013 Output 1 REDUCED 220V
seller dany96

• Located: Kalenborn-Scheuern, Deutschland
• Member since: Dec 01, 2000
• Positive Feedback: 99.9%

 

[tsuma]

Happy to report the replacement valve works great. The hoses were easy to remove after removing the top panel of my W1986 (two screws in front sides) and then the metal drum barrier.

One additional step was needed. It's egarding the board attached to the valve, to which the single 4-wire connector plugs into. I needed to take this electrical "baseboard" off of the old valve and place it on the new valve, as the new valve did not come with one.

 

[munenori]

Miele solenoid

Hi Tsuma! I have a Miele W1918 and a problem with its solenoid 03801391. I'm glad to see that you have solved the same problem with your machine. Recently, I'd ordered a replacement from England, but it didn't work because the water outlet diameter was too big for the hoses. I wonder if you received a solenoid from Dany96 with the right diameter, or if you had to arrange something. I see that replacement model is 1678013, but its metal base is a little different than the original (pic). I will appreciate your advise. Thanks

 

[cantare]

I bought one of the eBay knockoffs from a UK seller; also corresponded with Harold (dany96) in Germany regarding my W1918. None of the listings mentioned the W1918 in their compatibility list. These cheaper parts appear to differ from the original 03801391 primarily in that output 1 is reduced ("reduziert") by means of a plastic plug (the green bit in photo 3) to about the effective size of a pinhole.

I wanted to try dismantling the new part and transferring the innards as gizmo describes, but unlike the original, the new valve refused to come apart. When I tried unscrewing the discs with needle-nose pliers, the little "orange-section" vanes broke off--and the stems wouldn't budge at all.

I wound up comparing the output 1's and establishing that 03801391 has a black washer-like ring that restricts it somewhat, just not to the radical extent of the knockoff "reduziert" part. I grabbed a drill and a 5/32" bit and bored out the pinhole to something close to the original aperture, installed the part and have been running just fine ever since with no flashing lights or rinse cycle underfills.

So even if you get the "wrong" valve, there may be ways to make it work! Link is to the item I bought; photos are of my dismantled original valve and the new one from the listing.

Pardon Our Interruption...