model a806

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Kenny's Right!

The first order of business is to get that mouse nest cleaned out of the console. He's also right that a chewed wire might be all that's wrong with the machine.

When you clean that out, I would wear disposable rubber gloves, and a dust mask, available anyplace that sells DIY supplies. I'd pick out as much as I could by hand, then use an old vacuum or a shop vac to clean out the rest. Then I would start with a cleaner such as Windex and a lot of inexpensive paper towels to clean away the dirt left behind. Spray the cleaner on paper towels and use them to wipe dirt away - don't spray the wiring and timer and switches.

It will take some doing, but you need to do it anyway. It will give you some familiarity with the insides of your machine, and you may spot some problems that need taking care of.

P.S.: The dust mask is indispensable. Rodents carry germs you do not want to breathe in from their nesting materials.

P.P.S.: This machine is in showroom condition compared to some that members here have restored; this is an excellent machine for you to learn on.
 
Here's a picture of the timer motor

 

BTW, it looks like a Kingston 60.  I did replace the plastic gear in one of these in a 1969 Frigidaire dishwasher. 

 



 

If the timer motor is bad, you can probably order this brass gear to repair it (other members could tell more as I haven't dismantled my Maytag timer motor). To test it, simply disconnect it from the timer and plug it to 120V to see if the gear still turns.

 
Just In Case:

Please do your preliminary checking - and that cleaning - with the machine unplugged. After the cleaning, let it sit a couple of days before plugging back in.

I'm sure you already know this, but it's doubly important on a machine that could have a wiring issue - things that are not supposed to be "live" can become that way if bare wire is touching something it's not supposed to. Once you've looked at all the wires and are sure you don't have any mouse-chewed spots, then you can start plugging the machine in and start checking it for operation again.
 
Dean and Phil,
I have an 806 set out in the shed awaiting restoration. I got the washer in Kansas City in Nov. of '11 for $25.00 and the dryer in Oklahoma City for 50.00 in Nov. of '12. The summer of '12 turned into a water heater project year and last summer just turned out to be a bad year for doing anything, so hoping this is the year. I've been collecting parts for the last three or four years in anticipation of this project. I'm looking forward to it and dreading it at the same time.

My washer is just like the one you guys have, except mine doesn't have the mouse nest and it has the early Mallory "scritchin" timer instead of the Kingston timer. In fact, it was made in Oct. 1972, just like Phil's. And the dryer was made in Oct. 1973. An odd coincidence that they were made a year apart and I got them a year apart. My machines have the acrylic knobs and the turquoise plastic topped lint filters too.

I'd like to have the cabinets powder coated but I don't know what to do about the little chrome strips along the top edge of the front panels. Do they come off? Does anyone know? Should they be left on during the powder coating process or would that ruin them? I can take the factory placard off the machines and rivet them back on afterwards. But is the dryer placard riveted on or is it one of the peal off - stick on kind? I can't remember.

The blue strip on the dryer's control panel is going to have to be re-painted. The original paint is kind of an egg shell or almost flat, slightly metallic type of blue. I have a spare 806 washer c/p that I can take with me to the automotive shop and I think they'll be able to match it and put it in a spray can for me. I think that will work out pretty well. Depending on the match, I may have to paint them both but I think the end result will be close enough to the original that it will suit.

Does anyone have any experience with my painting dilemma?

Brian
 
Brian, I think mine also has the Mallory (from the noise!). So I guess that's when they switched from one to another. I did remove it to get access to the lid switch but I didn't notice the brand...
 
They're not hard to tell apart just by looking. Mallorys are in a square metal box. Kingstons are in a flat Bakelite box. I have a thread on here about timer maintenance somewhere. James from Las Vegas just recently referenced it. Actually, Maytag used both brands of timers through out their run, especially up to the '90's. It was kind of a toss up which timer one might get when buying a machine at the time, as is now when buying a used machine. The only way to know is to look under the hood before purchase.[this post was last edited: 2/22/2014-16:18]
 
Control Panel Painting:

Brian:

Here is what I did for my first set of Maytags, which were '70s machines with the Sunglow accent instead of the blue.

The panel is a single die-cast piece. Although it has what appears to be a chrome frame around color areas, it's all the same casting. What you have to do is to mask off the chrome and the white area at the top (or glass on 806/906 models), and buttons if you're painting it in place.

What you want to do is to lay down a strip of masking tape over the chrome, with one edge of the tape extending over the color area. Next, you smooth the tape, rubbing it so that it adheres well to the chrome. Then, you need to force the tape into the little "valley" between the chrome part and the color area - this is so that the masking tape wraps completely around the edge of the chrome to where it meets the color area. Last, you use an X-Acto knife to trim along the "valley," running the knife in a continuous line, and then lifting the excess tape away from the color area.

You need to use the knife delicately, not pressing down too hard, so as not to cut through the chrome. Doing all this around the openings for the cycle buttons is a particular PITA, but patience pays off here. When you are through, you will have all the chrome masked off, and the color area exposed. The white or glassed area above the color area needs to be masked to, but this is much simpler, since you don't have chrome right up against where you want to paint. And if you're painting the control panel in place, a cheap plastic dropcloth over the machine itself will protect its finish from overspray. Secure it with some masking tape so that you don't brush up against it and knock it awry at an inopportune moment.

This is what worked for me. I sprayed with stock gold spray paint, and clear-coated it. If the color match wasn't absolutely perfect (and I thought it was damned close), it at least made a very bedraggled set of control panels look new again. When I got the machines, a cycle button was missing and the panels were afflicted with a very bad case of Spray 'n Wash-itis, looking scabrous where there were big patches of Sunglow missing. One cycle button (for which I am still grateful to Kenny!) and some paint later - I had machines to be proud of.
 
fabric softener dispenser cup......

hey dean!!

if your still looking to buy a fabric softener dispenser cup have an extra cup that i found in my maytag parts.

i am sending you a private email.

i'll be waiting to hear back from you.....
 
Brian, I just checked and my timer is a Mallory like yours. Are these interchangeable or does the wiring harness differ when the Kingston is used?

philr++2-23-2014-18-11-42.jpg
 

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