model a806

[beekeyknee]

Yes, the timers are interchangeable. You have a 4499-3. Are you sure it "scritches"? The 4499-1's are usually the "scritchin" ones. A -1 is an early Mallory "scritchin" type (torsion spring) escapement (the spring unwinding causes the timer to make the sound), a -2 indicates a Kingston timer (rotating cam disc) and -3 indicates plastic gear driven escapement (late style Mallory timer). I have all three and my -3 doesn't "scritch". IMO any timer of that age should be cleaned and lubricated if one expects it to last.

When the timer turns hard it's more likely to fail. The -1 style has a complicated escapement that wears when not lubricated and cleaned, the -2 (Kingston) has a plastic motor pinion that will break easily and the -3 seems to be the most durable.

Others may feel differently, but this is what I've found to be true most of the time. That's more information than you asked for, but when I saw the -3 on your timer I was skeptical about it being a torsion spring type timer. Are you sure it doesn't just "click"? If I could see the bottom of the timer where the escapement is I could tell you by looking. Do a search for Mallory and/or Kingston (just the individual words) under Imperial. There's also the Westinghouse Automatic Timer Service Manual in Automatic Ephemera.

 

[beekeyknee]

Dean,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I've been looking at the pics of your machine and the things you have been saying and it looks and sounds as though your machine needs a complete tear down and restoration. This can be done, but it takes patience, hard work and some money. You can't expect a machine of that age to be in tip-top condition. On the upside, when you're finished you will be rewarded with a machine that will most likely run a very long time. You can look through the archives to find the rebuilding process. The groaning sound you hear sounds like a dry or worn tub bearing which usually requires removing the basket and tub down to the transmission. At that point you might as well do a complete restore. Hope this helps.

Brian

 

[philr]

Brian, is the Mallory timer in your Oct 1972 machine a type 1 or type 3? Mine doesn't have a spring-loaded escapement (it moves slowly like a Kingston would do) but it's motor is noisy (it makes constant noise) I guess something is worn in it and/or lacking lubrication but it still works. The Kingston timers that I have don't make as much noise. I do have one Ingraham timer motor that makes a similar noise (not that noisy still) but others that are less noisy.

 

BTW, I did send a link in a previous post to brass replacement gears for Kingston 60 timer motors. They are quite easy to replace. I replaced the Kingston 60 timer motor in a Frigidaire dishwasher with a new one but I did fix the old motor with a brass gear for future use!

 

Do you think any action is needed with a noise like this (that's the Mallory type 3 on my A-806)?

 

 

[beekeyknee]

Phil,

The timer in my Oct. 1972 machine is a -1. The timer in my Oct. 1979 machine is a -3. Yours is a -3. You usually see -1 timers in a machine of your age. Since your video was less than a minute, I didn't get to hear it advance. It's possible that the machine could have had a timer replacement somewhere in it's past. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this is what I have observed. John or Drew might know if -3's were used that early, but I'm thinking no.

That's just plain old motor noise in that timer. I don't know if you can stop it or not. It can happen to any of those little synchronous motors. You can pull that timer out of there, take the motor off, connect it to 120 with an extension cord and alligator clips and put a drop or two of turbine oil or Tri-flow oil on the pinion and see if it will take any in. I can't remember if there is anywhere to get oil into the back of the motor or not. Sometimes they will quiet down and sometimes not. Be careful. It's an easy way to get shocked. See thread # 38712 and # 50753. There you can see what I did and what James did. My video is of a -1 escapement running after cleaning and lubrication. Your escapement is much simpler to work on.

It's hard telling with those little motors. It could run like that for along time or it could quit the next time you use it. I've had them stop on me while working on them and start back up after giving it a little tap on the bench top or turning them over and tapping them again. Once I got it to run again, I kept putting oil on it and turning it over and on it's sides to help the oil distribute and it finally quit making noise. It's kind of touch and go with those little motors sometimes. If it won't quiet down, you could try and look for a new one. I don't know what the part number is right off the top of my head. Someone on here actually rewound one of those little motors, but I think it was a different type of motor and much older. It didn't look like something I wanted to try. I typed in synchronous motor in a google search and got several hits. You have to make sure it matches your old motor specs or it won't work.

Brian

 

[maytagmodela806]

Thanks Brian would you know where I can find the parts for that

 

[beekeyknee]

Dean,

That's nearly impossible for me to answer because I'm not there to look at the machine. All I can suggest is that you start looking through the archives to see what other people have done. You can search the archives if you're not a contributing member, but it's easier if you are because you can take full advantage of the sites features and not have to go through Google to search through them.

Ebay and on line appliance parts stores will have most of the things you will need. You will most likely need new damper pads and glue, silicone grease, belts, injector parts, mounting stem and boot seat kit and maybe a new tub bearing and sleeve if the old one isn't saveable. I would replace that patched power cord too. That's just for starters.

If you're really serious about this, personally I would recommend upgrading your membership so you can easily take full advantage of the site. (And I'm not trying to start an issue here, folks. So please don't rake me over the coals.)

Here are some thread #'s I've found helpful in the past. These were copied and pasted out of a notepad note, so if it's not completely accurate, that's why.

AW Threads: #28069, 22830, 25520, 38714 (rebuild of LAT 9800AAW), #42324 (A206 drive lug adjustment), #21438 (Reply #2, control panel from A806 from ebay). Also download the Maytag Helical Drive Automatic Washer Service Manual from Automatic Ephemera and print it out. You'll need that.

If your transmission is sluggish and it probably is unless it's been replaced, you can find a low mileage donor out of an early to mid-eighties machine instead of trying to rebuild your old transmission. Just depends on how it runs and what the agitator drive shaft looks like. If you can get the agitator out, that will give you an idea of what you're starting to get into. Also, take the front panel off and look inside. That will tell you a lot too. You will get more advise if you can get to the point where you can resize your photos and post them on here so we can see what it is you're seeing. There's a learning curve here and it takes time. Good luck.

Brian

 

[maytagmodela806]

Thank you how do you take the front panel off

 

[danemodsandy]

Dean:

Getting into a Maytag is easy.

On the front panel of the machine, close to the bottom, there is a ridge, and then the panel has an area at the very bottom that is recessed. Under the ridge, there are two screws.

Remove the screws, and grasp the front panel at the bottom. Pull it outward and swing the panel towards you.

At the top of the panel, the panel is held by two clip assemblies that will let go all by themselves if you will just keep swinging the panel outward and toward you.

Reassembly involves seating the top edge of the panel back on the clips, swinging the bottom of the panel back into place, and re-installing the screws.

 

[danemodsandy]

Dean:

Here's a DE806 dryer in the Allentown, PA area. Wouldn't be the longest road trip someone ever made to get a matching machine:

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?51471_

I'm alerting PhilR as well; he's also looking for one.

 

[philr]

Funny you posted that. Earlier tonight, I saw the ad on Craigslist and have already called the seller and he accepted my offer! 

 

[maytagmodela806]

Been at the hospital since the 24 had twin red head girls premes but doing good

 

[goatfarmer]

Congratulations!

 

[maytagmodela806]

Thank you

 

[hippiedoll]

CONGRATULATIONS!!!

on your double-bundles of joys!!!

)

i'm still waiting to hear back from you on if you have a paypal account to buy the maytag fabric sofenter dispenser cup. i'll be looking for a reply in my emails.

ttyl....

lovingly,
christina )
peace...

 

[maytagmodela806]

Unfortunately I do not have a PayPal account but thank you I'm kinda strapped for cash right now and thank you there quite a hand full being premes

 

[maytagmodela806]

What timer part numbers work with my washer I'm looking for them trying to find one on eBay

 

[beekeyknee]

Are you looking for the whole timer or the timer motor? Have you taken the timer out of your machine and hooked it up to 120V to see what it does? Refer to reply #62 in this thread  I made to Phil about working on timers. From looking at the pics that Phil posted for you in reply #38 you have a Kingston 4499-2 timer. The top view looks pretty bad, but the back view looks better. Even so the timer will most likely need maintenance. It's probably too old and dirty to work properly.

Refer to thread #50753 to see what I told James to do to his timer to revive it. I have done it but I didn't document it as well as he did. I just told him what to do. Your timer is different, but it can take the same treatment. I've worked on a newer Kingston timer and the same rules apply. You can check thread # 38714 and scroll down to reply #148. It's a long thread that I made some time ago and there is a section on timer restoration. I've learned a lot more since then and now I use Tri-flow spray to restore timers instead of oil infused kerosene. There's a lot of other info there too that you can refer back to in the future if you need to. Thread #25520 is redcarpetdrews post from 2009. It isn't about timers, but it's good information and if you're really going to get into this machine you're going to need it. I searched the archives, used posts like Drew's, combined my own mechanical instincts and created a success. You have to get dirty and commit yourself to bring the machine back to life. You basically have to tear it completely down and build it from the ground up. It will probably take all summer to get the job done and if you are not committed you will never finish.  Sweat, tears, and angry outbursts can and sometimes occur. I hope you're ready. If you are we need better communication with you so we can see what you're doing to be able to help you. If you're able to be a contributing member of AW.org the site will be more useful and you will be able to take full advantage of all of it's features. Posting pictures to the site like Phil did when he helped you helps us see what you're doing so we can advise. I realize you have two new little ones to care for and may not have the time for a project like this right now, but if you do I will try and help you as much as possible and others will usually try and help too.  OK, lecture over.

If the plastic pinion on the motor isn't broken you can put a drop of turbine oil on it, or better yet, if you can find it, some Tri-flow oil. It's good for sewing machines but it is also good on timer pinions and the spray is good for lubricating the timer body after cleaning it in kerosene (with the motor removed). You can probably use the spray on both the timer motor and timer body if you don't want to buy the oil and spray separately.

Here's the information I found about the motor for your timer.

I looked on the Kingston 4499 timer I have. It is installed in a console with wires all around and was hard to read but this is what I could see. The back of the timer motor reads-  Kingston MOD 60-1B(or 8, the digit was hard to see), 120 VAC, 3 watt, F130, Class B.

Black print on the side of the motor reads-  57214, 3005, 1R, 60HZ.

A separate # where the motor mounts to the timer reads 3015. I'm just guessing that is the part number for the escapement and motor assembly together.

The info on the clear plastic escapement cover reads-

Model 276 BEG
B 125 VAC 15A 1/2HP
E* 125 VAC 3A

 

If your timer motor really is the problem maybe some of the other guys can tell you which of these numbers will be of help to you. I have never had to replace a timer motor yet, so I'm not sure which of these numbers is most important as far as motor replacement goes. I looked in the Maytag Parts Identification Manual that I downloaded from Automatic Ephemera and I didn't see that model timer listed. There are lots of timer motor manufacturers and many motor numbers listed, but I'm not sure which one to look for.  I would guess the numbers on the timer back are the right ones, but I'm not sure. If you can't find the motor by it's self, any 4499-1, 4499-2, or 4499-3 replacement timer will work. I hope this helps you.

 

[philr]

If the timer motor is the issue, follow the link I posted in the reply#43<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 20px;"> </span></span>of this thread and see how to replace the plastic gear in the Kingston motor. I did order the brass replacement gear for one of mine and it was easy to replace. It works well now.

 

 

BTW, I'm still looking for a DE806 dryer, the one on Craigslist was sold to someone else even if the seller had accepted my offer... The seller was supposed to get back to me, I waited two days then I called back to hear him tell me that it was sold to someone else.

 

[d-jones]

The correct motor for your Kingston timer will have a drive mechanism that looks like this. If it has a metal or plastic gear then it's the wrong one.

Loading…

www.ebay.com

 

[beekeyknee]

Yes. That's what the pinion or drive on the motor looks like on a 4499-2 Kingston timer. The plastic pin that sticks up is off center which gives it an eccentric motion. The pin pushes inside a oblong slot in a plastic bar that moves the bar in and out of the timer to advance the cam or in the case of this timer I believe it's a rotating disk/cam.

 

David, wasn't it you who recently opened up one of these Kingston timers and replaced some little rivets or something like that?