Motion Sensor Outdoor Light Fixtures

[rp2813]

Just the other night I noticed our motion sensor light by the garage wasn't working. 

 

It has a small red LED that blinks when movement is detected, and then the twin lights are activated.  What I like about this fixture is that it ramps up the lights slowly rather than instantly switching them on at full wattage. 

 

The LED blinks, so the sensor is working, but that's all that happens.  It seems odd to me that both bulbs would fail at exactly the same time.

 

Is there a way to troubleshoot these, or is it standard practice to replace them when they stop functioning?

 

[kb0nes]

Most of the ones that I have seen have a solidstate Triac to switch the lights on and off. Some others use a relay, but this is less common. Its always possible that there was a failure of the Triac or some other part of the switching circuit. This can happen when an incandescent lamp fails on turn on and the instantaneous current jumps way up for a cycle or two.

Obviously troubleshoot by checking the bulbs and testing with a known good lamp. If your unit is dead then its likely time for a new one, although electronics are most always repairable if you can get to them and have the experience.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks.  I'm leaning toward an electronic problem.  I'll try a known good bulb just in case.  I haven't shopped for one of these in several years.  I'm hoping I can find another one that doesn't flash the bulbs on instantly.

 

[kb0nes]

Ralph, I totally missed the bit about the ramping up to brightness. This insures that the switching is electronic, not a relay. This adds yet more complexity to the circuit past a simple on/off Triac.

What style is the fixture? Is this one of the typical fixtures that holds the usual PAR38 flood/spot lamp??

I did a couple searches and so far I'm not finding many fixtures that ramp up to brightness. It looks like there are some Lithonia LED offerings that do ramp both up and down. You may be able to end up with something cool for this replacement that is both LED and full cutoff pattern which would really look good!

Perhaps post a photo of the fixture and the location, I'll poke around a bit and see what I can find.

 

[rp2813]

I'll go out and snap a picture before the anticipated storm rolls in later tonight. 

 

I attempted to change the bulbs but they are recessed into their cans and seem almost like an integrated assembly -- like the bulb can't be removed without the can.  I'm not sure what type of bulbs they are, but will try to get detail in a picture as well.  They remind me of a modern automotive headlight bulb but smaller, except they're not coated at the tip like a reflector.

 

I'll dig around later and see if I still have the literature for this thing.

 

[rp2813]

Here are a couple of pictures that I hope will provide an idea of the bulb arrangement described directly above.

 

[cuffs054]

Rp, I just ripped one like that out! If you look on the hoods you should see a small (very friggin small) set screw. It will be corroded in place. The hoods have to come off to get at the bulbs. I finally gave up and bought a new fixture that uses par38 of any kind (no cfls) has two level lighting. The bulbs stay on dim and only go bright when they detect motion. I've had two more of these on my garage for almost 12 years. Much easier to deal with than the one you've got.

 

[rp2813]

Tom, I noticed the small screws and thought they might have to come out to get at the bulbs, but I didn't have time to mess with the fixture anymore today.

 

I'm doubtful it's the bulbs anyway since both would have had to fail at the same time.  Unless the circuitry is such that if one goes out, they both go out. 

 

I'll be shopping around for a replacement.  I think being out in the elements may shorten the lifespan of the electronics on these.   Recent rains may also be to blame, since this seems to have started when we had rain every day for about a week.  I've had a cheap motion sensor fixture mounted inside a garage before, so that when the kitchen door swung outward, the light came on.  That one lasted forever I think because it was inside.

 

[rp2813]

More Info

I got lucky and found the literature right up front in the file box!

 

Make and model:  Heath/Zenith Secure Home, "Dual Brite" model # SH-5597

 

Trouble Shooting for "Lights will not come on" symptom doesn't suggest anything other than the usual suspects:  Light switch is off, fuse blown or breaker tripped, bulb loose or burned out.

 

From what I've seen, the bulb assembly is similar to one found on a basic flashlight.  I don't think it's worth the trouble of tracking down a replacement bulb.  Circumstances favor the bulbs being OK anyway.

 

 

 

[kb0nes]

Ralph,

If you are otherwise happy with the fixture, I'd suggest checking into is a bit more. The most likely failure is to lose the bulbs. I do agree that it is odd to have them fail at a similar time, but not impossible. I'd get the bulbs out and check them with an ohm meter before I trashed the fixture.

Its also an assumption to assume that moisture caused an electronics failure. In general electronics like these are quite impervious to water, I wash circuit boards in the dishwasher sometimes. The less robust electronics that do the infrared sensing are more apt to fail due to moisture and they seem to be working.

The bulbs appear to be a very common Halogen T4 BiPin (G8) base 100w bulb. These are all over the Internet for $3-6. If you had heavy rain its actually more likely the rain could destroy the Halogen bulbs then the electronics!

Of course all the above is moot if you just really want to get a new/different fixture in there! Personally I'd either ditch the fixture, or just swap out the lamp holders to use a more common Edison screw base, then you could use any standard PAR38 lamp. Can't imagine using 200w of incandescent light anymore!

 

[rp2813]

Thanks Phil.  Sounds like the bulbs are worth checking.  I do like the fixture's "soft start" feature so if it's an easy fix I'd like to keep what I have.

 

[arbilab]

A failing bulb can briefly present a very low resistance. Low enough to burn out the triac. Thus both lamps go out at once. Trust me, in 1981 I worked on Honolulu stadium scoreboard with ~10,000 lamps and we went through triacs like Mcdonalds goes through frenchfries, by the pound.

If you can get into the thing without destroying it, the triac is readily replaceable.

 

[twintubdexter]

Ralph,

I can understand your liking security lights that come on gradually, especially if you're the person who's activating them most of the time. Me, I prefer a blast of light. I only wish I could use 1500 watt bulbs instead of the the two 150 watters in each of the three fixtures. 

 

I had a problem a few years ago with kids crawling under our security gates (I live across the street from them) and then ringing my doorbell and/or pounding on my door and then quickly retreating to the street on the other side of the gates. They'd wait for me to come out and then have a good laugh. Granted these were just kids playing a prank but it was annoying. Even after I stopped going to the door the problem persisted, so I installed the security lights, 2 of them in the front yard. That didn't work either.

 

I finally rigged up an alarm with a horn siren and wired it to the front motion light. I hid the horn in the bushes. I was also nice enough to inform my neighbors since the noise was loud enough to be heard around the block. It only took one "alarm incident" to cure these kids. The fact that the kid ran across the street and tried to hide in my neighbors plants...all very large spiked and thorny cactus and bougainvilla...may have been a mind-changer for this juvenile delinquent. It was comforting to see all the pieces of broken cactus the next morning. I have since switched off the alarm but it's still there at the ready.

 

[rp2813]

Oh yeah Joe, you needed the shock & awe system to shut down that BS.  Nice work!

 

[cuffs054]

RP, Lowes has the newest version of that. I bought it so I could use PAR38s. I got it for less than $30.00. It looks like you're missing the UV lens that sat at the end of the hoods.