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So far, so good. It's been running for about 2 hours. The refrigerator section is COLD. Frost continues on the coils. Freezer fan is working and freezer is working normally. That very warm draft I felt coming out of the grill originally has been replaced with a much cooler, strong breeze. If anything, that vacuuming of the coils certainly increased airflow greatly.

 



[this post was last edited: 9/22/2017-23:41]
 
Looks good, Louie!

A thick accumulation of dust and cat hair on the condesner killed the compressor on my sister's refrigerator.  I don't think she ever vacuumed under there.  Maybe that's all your fridge needed.

 

I agree that there's no way to remove all of the dust from the condenser with a vacuum or a brush.  The crevice tool is limited in where it can reach, and there are areas that can't be cleaned even with a brush that's supposedly designed for this purpose.  I do what I can, every six months to a year, and that seems to be enough.   Not just on the '57 Combination, but also the '09 KA, which supposedly doesn't require vacuuming, but I do it anyway. 
 
 

 

I'm hopeful Ralph. However, I haven't noticed the compressor cut out yet. The frost continues to accumulate. I hope it's doesn't go back to what it was doing originally. Perhaps my moving the refrigerator back up vertically jogged some loose connection somewhere.
 
Check it in the morning.  I realize it's already morning, but you know what I mean.  Big frost free fridges can run for quite a while to get cabinet temperatures down to normal.   My '57 Combo accumulates far more frost on the serpentine coil after it has been shut down for defrosting than it does during normal operation.

 

Having said that, the latest behavior you've described seems to implicate the cold control.  They were the weak link in GE refrigerators from this period.
 
Well then, it must be stopping for the defrost cycle at least.  But is it cycling off in between defrosts? 

 

This could be tough to figure out if the problem comes and goes.   If the fans are working properly, the cold control might be suspect.  Maybe there's just a loose wire?
 
Still working fine.

 

 

My dad had mentioned that if the coils were extremely dirty, that would had an effect on cooling, thus the compressor would overheat and cycle on and off continuously. As for the heavy frost build-up on the coils, it seems there is an issue with the cold control, but more like something loose. Anyway it seems to had resolved itself, for now. I cleared the drain tube of the coils in the refrigerator section with a stiff wire. It was clogged with some sort of chalky material. Now the water drains normally.

 

A few pic's of the rear of the refrigerator. The water intake for the self filling ice trays seems to have never been connected. I'd LOVE to have this feature operational, but I am missing the ice tray self in the freezer.
smiley-frown.gif


 







[this post was last edited: 9/24/2017-22:54]
 
If only I had known.  About a year ago there was a yellow GE bottom freezer sitting curbside for a few weeks not far from me.  It had the ice feature, and IIRC, the shelf was there.  The fridge was in really bad shape and stunk to high heaven; too far gone to bring back and there was no way of knowing if it even ran.   More of a project than I could take on.
 
 

 

Damn. No worries Ralph. Perhaps John may have one? Calling John!

 

It would had been nice if my GE had the second roll out basket in the freezer. I guess it was not available on the smaller models.

 

 
 
According to info I saved from another thread, which was attributed to Ken (bajaespuma), GE put the letter code in the model number between 1961 and 1968. So, for your fridge, Y is 1964 and D would be February. Like you say O was never used for either month or year designation. To confuse things more the GE chart, from GE's website, I have shows a two letter code to designate year only between 1961 and 1968
 
Thanks Ken!

 

 

I saw that chart. Thats why I was so stumped.  Nice to know the manufacture date is February, 1964. 

 

I got the part number or numbers:

 

<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"><span class="UFICommentBody">WR9X211 or WR9X403
</span></span></span>

 

<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"><span class="UFICommentBody">These may be used: GC135, GC404, GC307</span></span></span>
 
You're welcome. It can get confusing if you have a GE from the 60s. And like I mentioned above GE's chart shows a two letter code but the other reference I found from another thread here uses only one.
 
 

 

Well the new cold control is in. An easy swap. However the sensor bulb line was a lot longer than the original. I just tucked the extra length in the refrigerator wall. I hope this does not effect it. It's cooling now. Lets see if this did the trick. Also decided to put some casters on this heavy beast.

 



 



 

 

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