scrubflex
Well-known member
the tub bearing seal dropped down the transmission shaft post
My 1985 Maytag A712 Extra Capacity Washer Rebuilt
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scrubflex
Well-known member
outer tub sleeve bearing...
scrubflex
Well-known member
...even the sleeve bearing refused to cooperate...the chisel was called again to assist in the removal...piece by piece
scrubflex
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eurekastar
Well-known member
Progress! And the wash basket and outer tub both look great! I just about lost my Jesus reinstalling the outer tub. It's not too easy for someone with big hands and arms.
scrubflex
Well-known member
cleaned up inside the cabinet...scrapped off detergent residue grit from leakage on the transmission shaft post...and cleaned up the transmission, shaft and post...pulled it out to install the damper pads
scrubflex
Well-known member
I used the electrical utility box method to remove the suspension centering springs...you move the tub away from the spring (opposite direction) to stretch it and insert the utility boxes...once in place, pull the tub forward into the spring which will loosen it...then disconnect them from the damper legs one by one
...was pretty lucky where as to not needing to scrap away damper pad remnants...the pads completely dissipated...the damper base (extension) surface was smooth
...used Brillo, Totally AWESOME Grill Oven Cleaner & Degreaser and Lysol POWER Foam cleaner to take care of the hint of glue that remained...lghh, nothing left on the damper base surface...wiped dry, applied adhesive and damper pads...allowed to sit for 12 hours or so...then lubed the pads
...was pretty lucky where as to not needing to scrap away damper pad remnants...the pads completely dissipated...the damper base (extension) surface was smooth
...used Brillo, Totally AWESOME Grill Oven Cleaner & Degreaser and Lysol POWER Foam cleaner to take care of the hint of glue that remained...lghh, nothing left on the damper base surface...wiped dry, applied adhesive and damper pads...allowed to sit for 12 hours or so...then lubed the pads
Great Progress
Yes old washers can be fun to take apart, overall the washers tubs etc look to be in pretty good shape, Have you located a replacement transmission yet, the agitator shaft is far too rusted for a long lasting repair in the water seal area.
There are still orbital transmissions around and then you can upgrade the washing and rinsing performance by using a Load-Sensor agitator and if you further upgrade by using a 50 cycle motor pulley and belts you will have a pretty decent performing washer.
Thanks for all the great step by step pictures of your rebuild this helps others save their vintage machines.
John L.
Yes old washers can be fun to take apart, overall the washers tubs etc look to be in pretty good shape, Have you located a replacement transmission yet, the agitator shaft is far too rusted for a long lasting repair in the water seal area.
There are still orbital transmissions around and then you can upgrade the washing and rinsing performance by using a Load-Sensor agitator and if you further upgrade by using a 50 cycle motor pulley and belts you will have a pretty decent performing washer.
Thanks for all the great step by step pictures of your rebuild this helps others save their vintage machines.
John L.
scrubflex
Well-known member
I could imagine eurekastar, I had some tight squeeze moments also...what drove me bonkers was the disconnecting and reinstalling the air dome tube...the clamp...I'd replace it with a screw clamp, easier to handle in such a closed in area
Thanks and no problem John L., fortunately, they are in pretty good shape for their age...no I haven't found a replacement...BTW, I'll post a couple of videos using my LoadSensor and a BobLoad
...what would be fantastic is if I found a '50 cycle motor pulley and belts' setup, the "54 OPM intermediate & pitman gears" to interchange with a 63 OPM transmission replacement to upgrade to a faster 756 RPM spin and a 67-68 OPM agitation speed...the 54 OPM transmission is too tall to use with the deep tub 712 washer
I also want to thank Dan (qsd_dan) and Robert (unimatic1140) for their incredible expertise, helpful knowledge and guidance as well...THESE GUYS ARE AWESOME!!!
Thanks and no problem John L., fortunately, they are in pretty good shape for their age...no I haven't found a replacement...BTW, I'll post a couple of videos using my LoadSensor and a BobLoad
...what would be fantastic is if I found a '50 cycle motor pulley and belts' setup, the "54 OPM intermediate & pitman gears" to interchange with a 63 OPM transmission replacement to upgrade to a faster 756 RPM spin and a 67-68 OPM agitation speed...the 54 OPM transmission is too tall to use with the deep tub 712 washer
I also want to thank Dan (qsd_dan) and Robert (unimatic1140) for their incredible expertise, helpful knowledge and guidance as well...THESE GUYS ARE AWESOME!!!
scrubflex
Well-known member
I made a mistake and reconnected the damper leg frame and centering springs before I setup the outer tub...the springs were pulling on the legs which cause a wider spaced gap between the outer tub bolt and leg frame openings (holes)...they weren't aligned when I tried to reinstall the bolts
scrubflex
Well-known member
So I removed the centering springs, placed the transmission in position to reattach the brake assembly and new radial ball bearing...but, first I greased up the transmission shaft post and tub bearing sleeve with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE for easier accommodation
...place the new bearing into the brake assembly, apply a little WLG to the damper threaded area (not the threads) then install the brake
...make sure to add some WLG also to the Brake Rotor...it's extra, but will provide smoother operations
...place the new bearing into the brake assembly, apply a little WLG to the damper threaded area (not the threads) then install the brake
...make sure to add some WLG also to the Brake Rotor...it's extra, but will provide smoother operations
Lubricating a DC Maytag
The top tub bearing should only have turbine oil used, lithium grease is too thick, the brake should have transmission oil in it only.
If you don't replace the transmission you are doing a lot of work for a washer that is only going to run a year or so at best till you have water leaking into the top spin bearing or into the transmission.
John L.
The top tub bearing should only have turbine oil used, lithium grease is too thick, the brake should have transmission oil in it only.
If you don't replace the transmission you are doing a lot of work for a washer that is only going to run a year or so at best till you have water leaking into the top spin bearing or into the transmission.
John L.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Forgot to mention, as per RCD, to add a tablespoon of MAYTAG Transmission oil to the brake assembly...quieter operation
Now it's time install the outer tub...once over again to make sure the opening is sanded smooth and clean
...I used WLG to grease the rubber area of the tub bearing seal...slides in easier
...completely flushed with the tub...place the outer tub into a position so you can attach the water level switch air dome
...then set the tub onto the transmission...next sand and wipe the outer tub bolt opening and install the 3 screw bolts/washer/plate, etc
...the SHORT one in the front and the LONGER 2 in the rear of the tub
VERY IMPORTANT: I used a hand socket wrench and a ratchet socket wrench...the hand socket wrench held the screw bolt in place (inside the tub) so the (rubber washer) DOES NOT MOVE as they're tightened...if so, it'll be damaged
...ratchet socket wrench tightens the washers/square plate, etc from the outside
...next I lightly added some ZOOM Spout Turbine Oil to tub bearing...which enhances the spinning cycles
Now it's time install the outer tub...once over again to make sure the opening is sanded smooth and clean
...I used WLG to grease the rubber area of the tub bearing seal...slides in easier
...completely flushed with the tub...place the outer tub into a position so you can attach the water level switch air dome
...then set the tub onto the transmission...next sand and wipe the outer tub bolt opening and install the 3 screw bolts/washer/plate, etc
...the SHORT one in the front and the LONGER 2 in the rear of the tub
VERY IMPORTANT: I used a hand socket wrench and a ratchet socket wrench...the hand socket wrench held the screw bolt in place (inside the tub) so the (rubber washer) DOES NOT MOVE as they're tightened...if so, it'll be damaged
...ratchet socket wrench tightens the washers/square plate, etc from the outside
...next I lightly added some ZOOM Spout Turbine Oil to tub bearing...which enhances the spinning cycles
scrubflex
Well-known member
We're almost there now, it's time to install the new mounting stem and boot seal kit
...I applied some white lithium grease on the bottom edge of the boot seal to help it slide on more easy...hold it along the sides of the seal and turn it from left to right (OSCILLATE) and push down gently until its seated flush with the bottom of tub
...DO NOT TOUCH the top area of the boot seal because if mishandled, you'll destroy the carbon ring inside of it...also, put a little WLG on the top edge of the boot seal and (rubber ring) area on the underside of the stem
...add the agitator drive shaft seal for "full proof seal" protection... you can use a little more grease if desired
...I applied some white lithium grease on the bottom edge of the boot seal to help it slide on more easy...hold it along the sides of the seal and turn it from left to right (OSCILLATE) and push down gently until its seated flush with the bottom of tub
...DO NOT TOUCH the top area of the boot seal because if mishandled, you'll destroy the carbon ring inside of it...also, put a little WLG on the top edge of the boot seal and (rubber ring) area on the underside of the stem
...add the agitator drive shaft seal for "full proof seal" protection... you can use a little more grease if desired
Installing a MT Tub Mounting Stem And Water Seal
I would NOT put grease on the bottom OR top of the water seal, to install the seal to the tub use a little diluted liquid detergent and it will slide right into place.
No grease or other lubricants should be used on the carbon ring.
Putting a 2nd old style agitator seal under the new lip seal may push the lip seal out of place or the pressure from the bottom may quickly destroy its effectiveness,
Good luck, John L.
I would NOT put grease on the bottom OR top of the water seal, to install the seal to the tub use a little diluted liquid detergent and it will slide right into place.
No grease or other lubricants should be used on the carbon ring.
Putting a 2nd old style agitator seal under the new lip seal may push the lip seal out of place or the pressure from the bottom may quickly destroy its effectiveness,
Good luck, John L.
Harry - I commend your efforts on rehabilitating your Maytag. Sometimes you just need to dive in to get the job done, and having several here on the forum helping along the way isn't a bad thing at all. 
I'll echo John's warning about adding oil to the stem seal. The newer Teflon style stem seal kit (both the A4298 version through 1996 and triple lip center seal version post August 1996) is not meant to have any lubrication added to "seat" the seal, instead Maytag recommends that the washer be set to spin for about 3 minutes or so after assembly to break in the seal.
While access to the older style seals is limited these days Maytag went back and forth in the 80's on adding oil or not adding oil to the stem seal with a handful of design changes. When they did they recommended using the transmission oil (similar to a 60-70w gear oil) vs. center seal grease (similar to white lithium grease).
Ben
Screen shot below from the Jan 1992 Let's Talk Service)
I'll echo John's warning about adding oil to the stem seal. The newer Teflon style stem seal kit (both the A4298 version through 1996 and triple lip center seal version post August 1996) is not meant to have any lubrication added to "seat" the seal, instead Maytag recommends that the washer be set to spin for about 3 minutes or so after assembly to break in the seal.
While access to the older style seals is limited these days Maytag went back and forth in the 80's on adding oil or not adding oil to the stem seal with a handful of design changes. When they did they recommended using the transmission oil (similar to a 60-70w gear oil) vs. center seal grease (similar to white lithium grease).
Ben
Screen shot below from the Jan 1992 Let's Talk Service)
scrubflex
Well-known member
Thanks John L. and Ben, I actually followed that bit of information from a Maytag washer Appliance Repair Guy video on YouTube. (Should I remove the grease???) And, John L. please let me know if you come across a possible replacement...I'm looking
Should I remove the grease???
Yes, at this point if you haven't fully assembled the machine I'd clean the grease off both the stem and boot seal with a few clean cloth towels.
Ben
Yes, at this point if you haven't fully assembled the machine I'd clean the grease off both the stem and boot seal with a few clean cloth towels.
Ben
scrubflex
Well-known member
Hey Ben, thanks again...oh the 712 has been operating going on two weeks or so...I think...I'm just sharing my journey...planning on post videos also
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
When I replace the stem and boot on dc washers I usually install the old style centerpost seal as well. The only time I don’t is when there is the white clip on the top of the orbital trans. So far, I have not had any issues with it and the lip seal on the new stem is potentially iffy by itself. I’m definitely not trying to contradict you John by any means but this has worked for me on many, many repairs. I just don’t totally trust the new lip seal, esp if there is any slight defects to the trans shaft...
RCD
RCD
